Volvo 940 B200FT in-tank fuel pump
 

Hi All

A couple of weeks ago I broke down in my 940 Estate on the motorway - not pleasant, but at least it wasn't a dreaded 'smart motorway.' Cutting a long story short, I was driving along nicely at an indicated 80mph and all of a sudden I started to lose power and then she died.

Given I had 1/4 tank of fuel still showing on the gauge (and it's never played up in the two years I've had the car) and there were no nasty noises or smoke, I guessed it was a fuel supply problem. The reason I say this was because I could hear the in-tank fuel pump priming. Usually it's quiet, but it was sounding strained. Each time I turned the ignition off and on, the gauge went back to 1/4 full, but she just wouldn't fire.

Having got recovered home (that's another story), I tried again next morning and I had the same symptoms as I had after I'd come to a halt and tried to re-start it on the motorway - spun over with a recharged battery, but wouldn't fire and the pump priming was noisy.

I then had a hunch that just maybe the gauge wasn't telling the truth. I'd done a lot of miles the previous day, so I put a gallon of fuel in and hey ho, she started and ran perfectly and the pump sounded normal. However, the gauge was still reading the same.

Today, I finally got round to taking the pump out the tank. This would allow me to see how much fuel was in the tank, check to make sure the in-tank hose was good and see if I could test the fuel tank float.

First thing is, I reckon the tank has about a gallon in it - so yes, I did run out of fuel. Doh!!!!

Second thing - the hose and connections all look very secure - no reason to suspect a problem there.

Thirdly, I can hear the float going from top to bottom and vice-versa when tipping the float assembly up and down and guess what - the gauge moves from empty to full. What seems a bit odd though is that the gauge only moves if i turn the ignition off and back on after inverting the float assembly. I've done this several times and it behaves exactly the same.

So what to do???

Having taken the assembly out the tank, I've decided to change the in-tank pump. I don't necessarily think it's the cause of the problem, but whilst its out, I'm going to fit a new one. I'm not sure what to do about the float. I'll try measuring the resistance across the two wires as I tip the assembly up and down. I'll probably replace the in-tank hose as a matter of course.

This brings me back to my original question (sorry it's been a long story). How do I find the correct pump? I want to replace with a Bosch if possible (I know this is not going to be cheap). The codes stamped on the side of my pump are:

3517845
A0482-1

I can't find a pump using these codes, but a search on eBay suggests the Bosch part number is 0580314067 but this isn't the number on mine. Can anybody confirm whether this is actually the correct one for my car or if not, hopefully a part number for the one I need.

I have the 'two-pump' system by the way, with the high pressure pump under the floor of the passenger seat.

Thanks in advance for any help (see also photo below).

Cheers

Graham

Having done a bit more browsing, I found this item on eBay that appears to be the same as mine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352527204...53.m1438.l2649

3517845 Is the correct part number and you can buy at Skandix

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...upply/1000603/

Better off trying to source one in the UK if you can though

Also buy a new seal for the sender/pump unit from Volvo, they're about £11 and usually availble easily.

Bit the bullet and ordered the bits I needed from Skandix (ouch!):
- in-tank fuel pump (135mm length)
- submersible fuel hose
- new sender/pump unit seal

Will also replace the external hose clamps with stainless steel items.

At least I can console myself by not having to pay labour costs and also being able to carry out some more rustproofing whilst I've got the fuel pump/sender cover plate off. Also, having replaced the pump, hose and seal, at least I will have eliminated these components should I get fuel supply problems again.

Will post an update on here when I've done the job to confirm that it's fixed the problem :-)

Instructions
 

Might be helpful, some instructions. I replaced my electrical pump a few months ago and it is not too complicated. Bit of a hassle to get it out and the new one in because of a baffle plate in the tank.
My new pump was not a straight fit in the original bracket, so I used two hose clamps to secure it in place. Still works fine.
https://www.skandix.de/en/documents/...-tank/3000438/

You might find some useful tips in this post from when I did mine about a year ago.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=312783

I didn't see in your Skandix shopping-list a replacement for the 4" - 6" hose clamp that goes around the plastic ring to prevent it working loose. You may be able to re-use it, but I replaced mine. I did successfully re-use both the seal and the ring. I found the best way to get a good seal was to soak the ring in hot water immediately before fitting it. This enables you to get it tight without having to use excessive force.

Thanks Forrest. I also ordered a new stainless clamp to go round the plastic ring :-). The pump supplied by Skandix didn't look as well made as the original. There was no barb on the outlet pipe from the pump (unlike my original), but the hose went on tight and is nicely clamped up.

Job now all done and car is running fine. Wasn't too difficult, pump sender unit went back in first time - I must have got lucky!

A couple of comments/things I did to make it easier:

- Fitted the new seal to the pump/sender unit and gave it a good coating of vaseline and it went in nicely. Skandix instructions suggest fitting the seal to the tank, but I don't think that's the best way to do it.

- Plastic ring was difficult to get back on (I guess I was being over cautious as I didn't want to risk cross threaded). To get round this, I gently heated the ring with a hair dryer (one of the most useful tools in my garage) and it went on nice and easily with no risk of crossing the thread.

Given the fuel gauge had reverted to empty when I reconnected everything (it was on a quarter full before I took the pump/sender out) and went up a couple of notches after adding a gallon and a half, I reckon I did run out of fuel. The sender float must have got stuck. Doh!! However, I'm not too unhappy as I plan to keep the car long term and it's a good job done ahead of me fitting my B230FT engine in the Spring - got a few jobs on my Landy and MGB V8 that need doing first ;-)