What are the top 10 problems with the 440/460 models?
 

What are the top 10 problems with the 440/460 models?

I'm trying to work out the most important issues to check for when purchasing a post face-lift, manual, petrol, non-turbo 440 or 460 and have put this list together from reading posts on here and other websites.

Would anyone be able to comment as to whether this appears a reasonable top 10 list of the main things to watch for.


1. Water leaks from the front bulkhead or around the windscreen, resulting in soaked carpets and sound deading, leading to a rusted floor

2. Water leaks from around the rear window, tailgate or light clusters, again leading to soaked carpets and sound deading and a rusted floor

3. Water leaks from around a sunroof if fitted, also leading to soaked carpets and sound deading and a rusted floor

4. Rusting around the rear wheel arches and bottoms of doors

5. The petrol gauge often doesn't work (a Volvo standard one this)

6. The alternator going u/s, possibly due to worn bushes

7. Minor electrics, specifically the e/windows, e/mirrors, c/locking behaving erratically or just plain giving up altogether

8. Rough or erratic idle problems

9. Exhaust rubber support perishing leading to a broken exhaust pipe

10. Bonnet catch failure


And here are a few more problems that appear to be less frequent but still troublesome. I can't imagine any one car would have all of these things wrong with it, however, it's better to know the possible problem areas since all cars from all companies have their own issues to watch for.


11. On-board check control computer, if fitted, often plays-up

12. Handbrake cables seize or break

13. Clutch cable breaks

14. Speedos can stop working

15. Steering lock barrel problems

16. Radiator perishing or leaking

17. Front wheel bearings wearing

18. Lamda sensor failure

19. Metal brake hoses rusting

20. Brake discs wearing out

21. Possible fuel pump problems

22. Gearbox failure

23. Clutch wear, and lastly,

24. Dodgy wiring caused by previous owners adding hifi, phones etc


I wouldn't have included suspension bushes, brake pads and shoes or bulbs etc as I'd have considered these to be wear and tear items and I also feel that some of the above list could be issues caused by the previous owner(s) not treating the car that well.

Replacing a timing belt would also be a service item and not a problem item.

Don't take this list the wrong way; I don't consider this actually too bad since any of these cars are now quite old and as with most older Volvos, they will continue to soldier on even if they have problems like those listed above.

I have owned a couple of these cars before but each for only a few weeks so I would like to hear from anyone else as to whether this list is reasonable.

Many thanks.

60 odd views and no-one bothered to reply, c'mon guys, tell me whether you see my list as a reasonable 'worst case scenario' for my next Volvo.

I don't expect one car to suffer from every single problem I've listed, but it appears that those I've put at the top of the list are the most frequent.

Any help gratefully rec'd.

Thanks.

The list is pretty accurate, other things to look at are the engine mounts especially the rear (gearbox) mount. You can also check for the gearlink bushes, if the gearstick feels sloppy in free and reverse is getting hard to get in the bushes are gone. Pretty easy and cheap to replace though.
Also check for oil leaks from the gearbox, check the CV boot on the left side. If that one leaks it's gearbox oil. The oilseal from the gearlinkage underneat the box are known to leak a bit. They all do, so be sure to keep the gearbox oil topped up. Best is to use Volvo gearbox oil, other brands can damage the bronze synchro's.

In the 440&460 only the turbo's are equipped with a board computer.

Thanks B20F, very useful tips to note, I appreciate your post.

I imagine the engine and gearbox mounts would show up when driving by coming on and off the accelerator and feeling for jerking in the transmission line?

Also, is the gearbox linkage an easyish replacement, or a big job?

I like the tip to check the lhs CV boot, good to do before buying.

Ref the gearbox oil, is it easily checked or would I need to take out a box-plug under the car to check the level?

So the OBC is only on the turbos, good, that's one less thing to check. AFAIK a lot of the 480's had them so that's why I think I've added it on the list.

To me, the list is not as bad as the watch list for the S40/V40 range so it seems to be the newer cars don't always wear as well as the older models.

Thanks again.

I'd say the list is good as well. From personal experience:

rear arch rust
small leak from gearbox around the gear linkage seal (as i've read and seen is a common Renault thing)
tach and clock once didn't want to work
interior fan didn't work due to aged soldering on the EVM (though these are in the MK1 400 series)
idle is a bit rough (it's actually normal to have it a 'bit' rough as i've experienced with a friends 440)
left half axle inner rubber boot
surface rust above muffler and on rear of the chassis around the spare wheel
elecs: only ever had 1 major problem: fuel pump and transformer died at the same time...
dashboard and ashtray illumination (easily rectified)
steering lock barrel had to be replaced
water leaks into boot from fuel filler lid
front stabiliser rods and front wheel bearings (but thats because of the bad roads so doesn't count...)
alternator bearings
water pump
for a while it used quite a lot of brake light bulbs (no problems since)
rusty rear brake lines (wouldn't be bad to change them...)
+ usual serviced items (timing belt and tensioners,aux belts, spark plugs, filters, fluids, brakes, tyres)
As to checking gearbox oil level there is the filler plug. (manual needs around 3.5l of oil)
All in all not bad for an 18 yr old car. The elec problem was a pain but if serviced properly it'll run FOREVER :)

Thanks GTMaster, I think each of the problems you mentioned I've seen reference to elsewhere but forgot to include them.

I certainly don't think they are enough to put me off buying one.

After all, it's not like they are rust-ridden death-traps, prone to blowing headgaskets etc.

Rgds

Best is to rock the engine with your hands so you can detect abnormal movement. Other option is to let somebody else start the engine while you stand at the side of the engine, (not in front of the engine offcourse!)Let him/her release the clutch in first and reverse very slowly while you watch for extreme movements. But first look at the gearshift while accelerating, it may move a bit, but not excessively. If in doubt use formentioned methods.
The bushes are still available new from the dealer, here (Holland) I paid €25 for a complete set (3 in total). The bugger is the one that inserts in the gearbox itself it's a pain in the ass to remove the old one. I had to use a small chissel to cut it out. It's made from some sort of nylon, be very carefull not to damage the alu housing from the gearbox while doing this. Placing the new one is a piece of cake and the other 2 bushes are very easy to replace, if not rusted solid. One very small allen bolt has to be loosend to get at the one directly under the gearshifter, easily to be overseen
You can only check the level by removing the filler plug. Standing in front of the engine it's located under the clutch cable, a plug with a square 3/8. The gearbox is topped up if the oil reaches the filler hole.
Another thing to look at is when the timing belt and pulleys were last changed, if in doubt replace them.
Good luck hunting for your "new" 400!
ps:
And don't trust the 400 series Haynes (aka BOL book of lies)
Here you can download the parts manual for the 480. Handy for engine, gearbox, brakes etc for the 440/460.
And here you can download the maintanance manual.

[QUOTE=B20F;770084]

Thanks for the tips. I had found the 480 website you mention and downloaded a lot of useful info.

The last address was new to me, have now downloaded the file.

www.k-jet.org ... thanks

I would say that you have pretty much covered the potential problems - though in my opinion the number one problem is the rear arches. Having spent 18 months looking at literally tens of 400`s, the hardest part was finding one with clean arches. Of all the ones I saw, I only found two rust free examples - the first one I failed to purchase in an online auction, and the second one I bought.Interestingly, both of these were your archetypal one owner from new, kept in a garage examples - the second never having been driven in the rain. Needless to say, I have done everything possible to try to stop the tin worm getting in, and the arches are cleaned out at least once a week !
Small correction regarding the OBC - this was fitted to post face lift 440 and 460 CD`s, but only with the 2 litre engine.
Good luck with your search.

Thanks nomashedswede, it's good to think that of all the 'possible' places that trouble could lurk, the most frequent and most damaging place(s), both rear arches, can be easily checked with fingers and a magnet in a couple of seconds.

After this the rest of the problems are reasonably easy to swap, replace or repair.

Armed with this info I'm looking forward to my search.

I'll keep you posted.

Rgds