940 auto box flush - how ?
 

IS this easy ? Where are the filler and drain holes ? Standard ATF ? Anything I should know, likw how to do it ? How NOT to do it ?
Again, probably on the forum several times over, but Ive not found.

Have a read of this:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=275839

Another method is to remove the upper trans cooler hose from the radiator and connect some hose to the radiator, put the other end in a jug. Start the engine and run until 1 or 2 litres has drained.

Pour the same amount of fresh in through the filler tube. Depending on the start condition, do 5-6 litres. Go for a drive, check levels, do more if necessary.

There's some intructions here:

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4809...sion-flush-kit

This is how I did a complete fluid change on my box a while back. The radiator had broken and water was getting into the transmission. I just used a piece of 8mmID silicone hose and screwed that (the metal thread on the top of the radiator will cut in nicely to the hose) on and had a friend watch the fill jug while I kept my hand on the key.

It's a laborious task but I was getting quotes of £600 to get it done at a shop. I put 25 litres though it before it started to run cherry red again.

This is a description of how I did mine.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=207225

Both cars still going strong 3.5 years later. Maybe time to do it again soon, but a summer job IMHO.

Just to add to the mix, copy & pasted from my post on the thread linked to by Tony above :

Don't flush it! Not with nearly 300k miles on it!

Do a "part-change" instead, drain the sump, either by removing the drain plug or using an oil extraction pump (about £15 on ebay and no crawling underneath!) and refill to the correct level using new fluid. I use Carlube ATF-U and have found it's an excellent fluid and suited to the Aisin-Warner box very well.

The first part-change will probably give you an instant improvement, do another in about a months time then another about a month later. This will in effect change all the fluid very gently and get a lot of dirt/contamination out of the box while reducing the risk of blowing seals with new, much thicker, fluid.
It also gives the seal conditioner present in the new fluid time to work which will help the seals much more than flushing it through with umpteen litres of new, thick fluid that could easily blow a weak seal to oblivion.

After the 3 part-changes, do one part-change a year to maintain the service changes at the right interval.


If it's not been done for a while, i'd suggest the gentle approach (part changes) to be on the safe side. I know others have flushed their boxes but there's always one where it goes pear-shaped. ;) :D

Good advice Dave.

Jon.

940 tdi auto 1995
 

hi dave woud you do the auto oil change when the engine is hot or cold if its cold woud the rubbish/sediment have gone to the bottom of the sump overnight so woud come out better or when hot its moved rubbish round so that makes it come out better . just wondering which is best

The best time to do it Jim is when the gearbox oil is hot. Sounds like i'm splitting hairs there and to a point i am. The engine warms up quickler for many reasons, two obvious reasons are that is where the burning of fuel happens and it has a thermostat to help get it up to temperature and maintain it there.

Take the car for a run of 5-7 miles to get the transmission nice and warm and the fluid well circulated and then drain it. Be careful of the hot fluid though!

I like to decant the drain pan into an empty, clear container such as an old 5L screenwash or antifreeze tub.
That way i can put it to one side and let it settle and see what dirt falls to the bottom after.

It's also easier to see the true colour of the fluid, a good way is to dribble some fluid onto a plain white kitchen towel as this shows up any dirt held in suspension as well. ;) :D

thanks dave will follow your advice