Am I the only one that's getting confused? Which is the best way? Gibbons or method on the Linesi link?

Hello I am new to this site . I just bought a 2009 S-60 last weekend with 36,000 miles & have a question about the geartronic . When I am @ a speed between 25-30 it seems to want to buck sometime ? Go above 40-80 it seems to shift smooth .

My next question is how do you use the manual mode ? I have a automatic with a manual & have no clue how to use it ! Can you tow in the manual position ,because I will be towing a Sea-Doo watercraft with this car this summer !


Thank you !

With regard to changing the ATF. I have a 2000 V70 auto that slurs between gears and clunks heavily when I use kickdown. I priced up a fluid change at my local Volvo dealer, they expressed that it would be impossible to do myself and that when the fluid is changed the gearbox needs to be reset to "learn" the properties of the new fluid. I quized them on how they were going to "fully" change the fluid and they said they'd drain and fill the gearbox then run the car and drain/fill it again (8 litres of fluid), I am concerned that they are simply diluting the fluid that is locked away in the torque converter and charging me a fortune (200 quid) for something I can do at home. Does the gearbox software need to be reset after a fluid change? If not I will do the job myself for half the price. Thanks in advance for any replies.

Ideally the adapts would benefit from being reset after you change the fluid, but it's by no means mandatory; even then, you could flush the fluid then take it to a dealer (or anyone with Vida or VOL-FCR) to have the adapts reset. There is also a method to reset the adapts without Vida on some models, have a search around the forum for talk of doing it.

The method they are advocating (sometimes called the drain and fill method) is a good one if the fluid is particularly nasty, old or the car is ultra high mileage. If none of those apply, you can use the flush method, whereby the torque converter fluid is flushed out at the same time.

Chris...

Thanks Chris
I am going to do the drain and fill method this week as the lower gear changes are a bit slurry and the car bangs into gear if I use kickdown. The car is high mileage (196k) but has a full service history so hopefully it will last for a few more years yet. I think tht the g/box was over full as I have checked the atf fluid with the car hot and cold (with engine running) and the level was very high both times. I have just drained the g/box sump and got out over 4 litres. I have new fluid on order so fingers crossed it will cure the snag. Jon

One of the symptoms of an overly full box is failure to modulate line pressure effectively: which leads to snatching and crashing in and out of gears! Hopefully new fluid at the correct level will sort out your problems. :)

Remember to step through all the gears (foot on the brake) twice and leave a minute to rest before checking the level.

Best of luck !!

Chris...

Can you confirm, when you check the gearbox dipstick level, is this WITH the engine running, or switched off.

I checked mine after the flush WITH the engine running, and box in P

Yes, you need the engine running and the gearbox in park to check the level. Ideally after a 20min drive and cycle the gear lever through all gears then back to park.

I have just replaced 3 litres of atf in my gearbox and it seems to have improved gear changes slightly. However gear upshifts are still unpredictable upto 3rd and kickdown is harsh. I'm going to take a look at the B4 servo cover as recommended on another feed, and I will update with my findings.

Yep, that's spot on! :thumbs_up:

You might need to wait for a couple of hundred miles to feel the benefit of new fluid. I reckon taking a look at the B cover is a good idea though, your symptoms sound very likely to be that.

If you do open up the B4 valve housing, I would have the parts ready and just do the job, even if the valve and cover look OK. The parts are not dear!

Chris...

I have just changed the b4 cover along with the 3 o-rings (two on the cover and 1 on the piston), I have taken it for a drive and it seems to change gear slightly better. I have checked the fluid level on my return and it is spot on so it would appear that the gearbox was aprox 1 litre overful as I drained out 4 litres and only put 3 back in. Also while it was on the ramps I noticed that the front of the gearbox has a removeable metal cover with a pipe going into it that seems to be weeping fluid. What is under this cover as I don't want to remove it to fix the leak and the gearbox fall to bits in my hands. Cheers Jon