D3 Glow Plugs and DPF Regen
 

Greeting first time posting in this section of Forum,

I bought my V50 a few months back from a wee car sales place locally, 1 owner (fleet) 2011 (60 reg) V50 D3, first Volvo and first Diesel for me. Got the car with a little under 87000miles now at 88500 or so. When i test drove the car was telling me it needed serviced, so it was MOT'd and serviced at a local garage to the garage. Have been using the car as family wagon no real issues but with an Upcoming trip to Le mans next month and the car being lumpy at idle on 1st start in morning only (i suspected glow plugs) i thought best to get the car serviced by Volvo as it was still around the correct time (a few months) and mileage from the previous main dealer service. Also with the lumpy start it was loud and smoky ( quite obnoxious for a ferry and campsite) and with Volvo doing roadside cover in Europe I thought why not eh.

Car was serviced today and fault code for glow plugs was seen (no surprise) and recommended change (no issue with that as suspected) I may take them up on it, as heard some horror stories of glow plugs snapping off in block etc. (in general not Volvo) are these stories unfounded?

Anyway back to my main point. it also showed codes for DPF (not exactly sure what they were as the guy who got my invoice wasn't the guy who told me about it on the phone) they suggested that once the glowplugs were changed it may clear the DPF code, I am unsure how they would be connected apart from unburnt fuel / not ful burn (etc on initial morning startup), they said if this wasn't the case then it would need a forced regen (£142) and if that didn't clear it a new DPF (£680) is this justified?

The car gets mixed use, some town some motorway (20-30miles) and longer stuff, after doing some reading on here,

I have set up Torque app for EGR, DPF (not sure this will work correct) EGR fault and throttle position. and will go for a long drive tomorrow to see if i can see a regen. any tips. Previously only used torque for track recorder

See here on Youtube

My driving in the V50 is mixed, I like the torque so foot in when I can but at the same time it can be restrained.

I have on the previous tank of fuel ran a bottle of Lucas Oil Diesel cleaner stuff through, would that have made any difference?
Are the DPF cleaner snake oils worth it? I see a few ppl banging on about various liqi moly products, again worth it?

Not particularly wanting to pay out for a forced regen or a new DPF either.

Forgot to add on my wee Autel Code reader no codes showing before or after service, and the same with readng codes on Torque app.

So today i went for a long run at steady motorway speed, I monitored on Torque, basically done 90miles, after spirited A road driving for 5 or so miles, done

initial 20miles on Motorway at 70ish, in 4th at 3250rpm, observed EGR to be at 0%

next 30-40miles in 5th at 70ish and 2500rpm EGR at 40-60% hills overtaking etc

then done around 20miles at 70 in 6th, EGR @ 25-40%, then some A roads home for 10-15miles. Had 2 or 3 spikes to 90% +/- but they were instantaneous and did not hold there.

The whole time the throttle position from manifold was 89-90% v steady.

Cat Temps eventually settled around 300 deg C increasing with overtaking.

See screenshots below

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...psco5thpd2.png

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...psd9zyae3v.png


Forgot to add the EGR error, flicked on and off the whole time, I assume it is percentage based, never quite figured parameters yet, I did notice that above 2900rpm, the EGR is at 0%

Also has the emissions test thing running on torque and showed EGR fault as 'incomplete' since last DTC clear. next plan is to stick some super Diesel in and possibly invest in some DPF cleaner additive. I wll also get Glow plugs sorted, undecided if i will get dealer or local Diesel guy to do them. (and possibly force a regen.)

Again today, no fault codes on torque or Autel Autolink code reader

You are correct most if not all of these additives "moly" stuff etc are snake oil.

Most engine manufacturers have proprietary system cleaners that need treated with caution, they do on about 50% of issues on new engines move the problem out of warranty.

Removing modern glowplugs can be a nasty job , however my technique as i was taught was remove power lead , fit spanner / socket , then GENTLY turn to loosen , no more than a 1/4 turn & then reverse you turn slightly to remove /dislodge any carbon that may build up on plugs tip when removing . It can also allow the plug tip if it has swollen to "wear away " with this rocking action . Always work slowly & smoothly when removing old glow plugs to reduce the chance of shock loadings snapping the probe off . At that point it usually ends up with the head off to remove any parts in the combustion chamber that should not be there .

The best answer to dpf regens is a long run in a lower gear than normal to get gas flow & temperatures up to the point where the carbon burns off or the ecu dictates regen time . Even the so called dpf cleaners cannot remove all the clogging by chemical action alone

Passive regeneration

During suitable driving conditions, the exit exhaust gas temperature will reach up to 500ºC. This will burn off low and moderate soot deposits without any internal or external stimulus.

Active regeneration

Stimulated by an increase in back pressure, mileage or time driven since last DPF regeneration, a series of active events will take place the outcome of which is designed to increase the exhaust gas temperature even further. We have seen this rise to 800ºC during serial data logging.

Forced regeneration

This process is only available through serial intervention and only then if a strict series of parameters are met. These include all of the previous mentioned components.

Hope this helps

Steve

Hi
Might be worth checking the actual glow plugs themselves, before just replacing them because of a code.
My V50 2.0 D. has always had a glow plug fault logged,(clears then just returns) the plugs all work correctly.
Last time at a service I was told there is often a "ghost " code that shows and just ignore it.

Iain

Cheers for the regen tips, monitoring it on Torque whilst driving, the EGR test/monitor showed a complete test now which wasn't appearing previously, need to check this on my handheld code reader too. I done th driving in a lower gear thing, the other day, moving forward been up to book in with local specialist for plugs and diagnostics regarding DPF. Appreciate the time you took for the detailed reply.


Thanks for the reply, my 1st startup of the day is v lumpy, some smoke from unburnt and very apparent car isn't running on all 5 cylinders, which would back up the code. Again appreciate you taking time to read and reply

Forgot to mention in the last post, I had heard some horror stories about stripping the threads whilst changing glowplugs or snapping them in situ.

As the car is the family wagon and I need it for lugging beer to Le Mans in a few weeks I have booked it for the service, though I am not averse to wielding a spanner.

So anyhow, I plugged in my wee handheld and on the I/M readiness checks screen it had up until today (from checking post stealer service) been showing a wee red x at EGR, the Torque app had also shown the EGR test as Incomplete.

On the drive up to chat to indy specialist I noted on torque this changed to Complete, was in a 40mph zone average speed cameras in traffic so doing a lot less.

http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...psx7oieath.jpg

What does this signify? a regen has taken place? Thanks in advance again.

It looks like the issues have been resolved, it turns out it was faulty GLow plugs, picking the car up tomorrow from the specialist, (Ron Sealy in Cowdenbeath.) he pulled glow plugs, and while bench testing, one Exploded! (don't know why was told this was a first for him) Also told the other four were glowing different colours. all 5 were changed codes were read and found only codes for 2 glow plugs. No codes for DPF, which suggests car did its regen and this could have been indicitated on the EGR test complete on my hand held fault code reader and torque.

So it appears my car is using the glow plugs on startup under 8-10 Deg C and above that is not requiring them. - on that the ambient temp in the morning with sun up would be 8-10 deg but the actual temp of the block prob less due to the sun taking an age to heat it after cooler/cold through the night.

Thanks all for the input so far