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-   -   dratted fuse 5 (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=133963)

chesters6 Sep 10th, 2011 13:38

dratted fuse 5
 
5 Attachment(s)
been having lots of trouble with the corrosion on fuse 5 ,one day it works after a good clean then its back to overheating and melting.
took the drastic but long overdue task of updating at least the troublesome connectors in the fuse box.

i spotted a very nice little fusebox in halfords (4 fuse version £7.99) that uses the less troublesome but alien blade fuses.
had a bit of thought first there are inline versions in many sizes but should another fuse start getting the same problems it would be back to square one.
i plumped for the enclosed 4 fuse version in pic one
for such a big car i was going to mount it in the engine bay but surprisingly there's little room where you can safely drill holes blindly in the firewall so i did the second best but much easier option of mounting it on the passenger side panel close to the fusebox.

now the wiring is pretty simple each connector has a encapsulated feed wire going to the rear (pic 3 with meter probe in it)and the load wires in front of it ,in the case of the DRL theres two .pic 2
i decided to join both of them together with a proper spade joiner but not having a 2 to one i had to cut one feed wire and crimp it to the fitting,you could if you wish split the feed and use two fuses for each load wire its up to you.
make sure your wire can handle the load ,in this case i used 17amp wire which ofcourse is far higher than the fuse can handle so as intended the fuse will fail first.

after joining the two loads together i fitted an extension wire to carry it to the new fuse box and then for safety the complete connection was shrink tubed ,dont use to much heat you dont want the sharp bits coming through the tubing ,(pic 4)
the feed wire was simple connected to its extension with a shielded male spade its fuse box end with a female red connector (red to remind me its the feed but it doesent really matter which end is connected to either connector on the fuse box fuse holder) .the Loads extension was terminated in a blue female spade.

simply fit the feed to the fusebox ,fit the load wire to the opposite spade and hey presto its done ,put the side panel back in (its only held in place by the knee lining and the carpet and the door trim ,theres no unscrewing needed ) pop up the knee lining which hides the fusebox (you could mount it lower but my mrs has clumsey feet!)

switch on and the green light comes back on hopefully for ever ,ps i use a 5 amp fuse but i have put in the vacant fuse holders 7.5 amp one just in case


PS if anyone has a spare metal "lock" thing that sits in the side panel that locks the fusebox cover in place (turn screw fine in the cover) could i buy it please

pps anyone know what the unused yellow lead is for i presume its fuel pump or something else unneeded it was just lying behind the side wall

i can now rewire my cd magazine to a spare fuse instead of the inline one you may spot dangling in the back ground on purple wire


Link to original thread

chesters6 Nov 8th, 2011 12:31

addendum to "dratted fuse 5"
 
can a mod tag this to my post "dratted fuse 5" in the articles section please...



Having had the odd problem with the wipers fuse also either being reluctant to work or not working at all until fuse 2 was rotated (not so easy in driving rain alone in the car) i decided to use another section of the new fusebox to circumvent this fuse as well.

not quite as simple though if you just forge ahead as i did .

the proceed is exactly the same a lead from the feed and the joining of any wires being used on the fuse outputs and these leads going to the new fusebox

The feed was the usual one as used in the fuse 5 scenario BUT after using the feed on the wiper alternative fuse i discovered several things now refused to work later on
Silly me the main feed actually feeds the top 3 fuses they are joined somewhere not obvious in the confines of the foot well!

Anyway not the end of the world i simply cut of the male spade used to connect to the feed as in fuse 5's workaround ,plugged the original feed back into fuse 2's rear connector and attached a fully insulated female crimp connector to the wire going to the new fusebox and plugged it into the empty feed tab on fuse 3 .I had to get my head around this linking of the feeds in sainsbury car park after returning to a misted up car and discovering the heater fan now longer worked!

anyway i have decided to completely remove the old fusebox in the new year ,i managed to source a very nice 12 fuse box from fleabay and with the 4 fusebox i already have will do nicely.On looking at the manual theres several fuses with the same feeds so some thought will have to be made how to join them safely in the new version.

i will post this total upgrade with a few pictures once i get around to it ,hopefully (not measured it yet) the new fuseboxes will fit directly in the space the old one is in but i expect my luck will be the usual easy gone hard scenario

brodgar Nov 8th, 2011 12:43

looking forward to the pictures

i have been toying with the idea to get a 7 series fusebox installed,
replacing the 240 fusebox.


I am not looking forward to the amountb of wiring cutting, soldering and reconnecting.

need a quiet week in solitude for that job

chesters6 Nov 8th, 2011 12:56

its not really that hard one bit at a time but a messy way to do it ,hopefully if i can get the new fusebox in the place of the old one then with a few (hard to find as yet) double piggyback connectors (where the connector slips over the fusebox connector but provides 2 connectors instead) the job would be far easier and just simple plugging in instead of the bodge you need to do in my version.:thumbs_up:
not seen a 740 fusebox it may be better but even 740's are rare in my local scrappies the best one now immediately crushes whole cars and ships them off abroad:broken_heart:

this is the connector but i'm sure not going to pay a quid each for them!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIGGY-BACK...item2eb8a77645

Duncan R Nov 8th, 2011 13:22

These guys should have what you want

www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?content_page=home

I just bought a load of stuff to rewire my classic bike. Prices seem quite good

chesters6 Nov 8th, 2011 20:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duncan R (Post 1021179)
These guys should have what you want

www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?content_page=home

I just bought a load of stuff to rewire my classic bike. Prices seem quite good

i cant spot them ,there is a 12way but not a 2 way


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