Thanks Ron - we're posting at the same time.

I think a stepped drift is going to be necessary for nice bushing installation - I'm working on a work around for that too

As I said, the drift is nothing fancy but must be accurate to get the best force on the bush itself. SVO1442. As you have one out you may be able to drift the other one out in the opposite direction using the jaws of a vice as support. Install with nut, bolt and washers?

Well thanks for posting that picture - one thing it does is clear up the question I had in my head about how long the Volvo special tool is => Too long and wide to be pushed from the inside of the gap of the casting.

The bushing I've managed to remove was really stuck in there - the gauge on the hydraulic press showed about 4 tons before it broke loose. In that situation I think it is best to be cautious and not push from the outside in - to make sure that all important gap in the casting stays as it should.

I plan to modify the old king pin by welding a nut onto it to make an installation tool for the new bushings. I'm going to have to roughly turn the diameter to a smaller size. I reckon I can do this in a botchy hand tool way that would be dreadful for real world use but as an installation guide it should be fine: I have to make the old king pin diameter smaller by about half a mm so it doesn't knacker the new bushings during installation.

To be continued.

Just a quick mini update
 

I had much better luck removing the other king pin bushing - it came out very easily - needle on the hydraulic press barely moved.

In cases like this I can see why Volvo don't seem to make a fuss about the gap like I did - however if you get one that's a bit stuck I still reckon it is best to be aware of the potential dangers.

I won't show how I managed to remove the other bushing - way way too dodgy a method to show on the internet. Sometimes I'm just a bad baby sitter...

See this service bulletin. i've seen that tool before. It comes with little extensions that are added as you go.

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tsb55-6...50-10-NoV3.pdf

dean

Disregard my post. i see that this tool is for pin removal, not bushings.
dean

Thanks for thinking about the problem Dean

The king pin removal turned out to be quite straight forward because the bushings and the pin were worn - I just used a narrow pin punch and then waggled the pin out by sticking it in my vice. As all parts are to be replaced I was only careful about the casting.

I'm not sure if all king pins can be removed with the unauthorised method I used but it does save having to replicate the special tool shown in the PDF you linked

Just thinking, a hot oven for the stub axle and the freezer overnight for the bushes might see them being able to be fitted by hand. You have to be quick of course, but even if they are only part fitted, you have a good start. Alignment has to be good first time so marking up the 2 pieces will help.

good point about alignment. i think the bushing has a lubrication hole that needs to align with the grease zerk.

dean

I always used to complain about "sparkies"...
 

...I didn't realise cutting wires to the right length and fitting connectors was so time intensive!

As I mentioned before I'm staying with the original style flat slide connectors because they will fit through 1961 holes whereas modern multiplugs do not.

I've got a load of clear plastic slide connectors for connecting one wire to one wire; one wire to two; and one wire to three.

I've resisted the urge to connect the main lump of wires running from the back and the front of the car directly to the fuse box and the relays. I'm not sure how the gucci gucci mini fuse and relay system is going to work out - so I want to be able to easily swap it out if necessary even though this means there's another break in the wiring (where potentially things might go wrong)

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1549897645

^^^Trying to think ahead - grouping wires into meaningful-ish groups and figuring out how long they need to be to fit nicely into the connector blocks^^^

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1549897645

I'm sure those who do it every day don't need the shrink wrapped labels but I'm flipping glad I made the effort to arrange them for myself


The group of connectors in the upper reaches of the passenger foot well =>

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1549897645

And fixed with plastic P clips to the inner side of the bulkhead =>

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1549897645

The group of connectors in the boot are also done =>

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1549897645

Each of these groups of connectors need to eventually be housed in some sort of junction box. Looking at the available junction boxes I'm rather under whealmed by the offerings - has anyone here seen a nice snazzy custom solution before? (I've imaged searched but find the same old boring stuff)