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As a matter of interest, how much did you have to pay for it at the start if you don't mind saying?
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showp...2&postcount=17 I think I gave away enough information there! |
Thought I finished the welding on the front end...
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...but later on in the day when I was stripping the old paint I found a few more pin holes.
Still the other corner holes have now been welded up. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518108017 ^^^ Made a bit of a random shape to help preserve the curve https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518108017 ^^^^^ Yet again a bit of Zincor has been rolled to shape - here I am fitting the larger piece behind the new designer hole so I can trace out the shape from the front and cut to get a nice butt joint (No overlapping crap - no glass fibre filler for me!) Sorry about this picture - camera wandered off and did its own auto focus thing for some reason https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518108017 (Don´t worry I guess there will be more pictures on their merry little way) |
When I reach this stage I always...
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...wonder why I started the bloody paint removal in the first place!
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518192790 The only solution I know is to carry on with the easy bits as well to ¨keep the faith¨ https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518192790 It is a long distance race - not a sprint! |
Other news =>
I´ve also splashed out and joined a club here in Holland. (The V44 club was recommended - this caused a bit of confusion as it has now got a new name)
https://www.volvokv.nl/ Compared with some clubs in the UK the initial cost is quite high. There are some pretty good advantages though - one for me was their spares webshop which seems to sell new parts at a reasonable price - and importantly later on they will help with a valuation of your vehicle for insurance purposes for a very reasonable price... ...so joined up (again) |
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Just reporting in to say that I'm enjoying your thread. |
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I´m hoping the good people here can help with my (almost perpetual) stream of questions. At the moment I´m thinking about valve cover and sump colours on B18s (I know I´ve got a B20 but I want it to look kind of original) Ignoring the chrome finishes and the black and chrome zebra affairs it looks like Volvo painted the valve cover in a grey https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...azonEngine.jpg (Image borrowed from Wikipedia) Is there a specific Volvo grey for this? I´ve found the red engine paint. I´m also wondering about the sump - it looks like most have been done in the red. {And another general Volvo question for you all: Why did the next generation engines end up being called red blocks when the generation before were also red?} |
The original valve covers were cadmium plated and many of them then had a clear lacquer coating that breaks up over time and goes a bit yellow. They also rust on the outside. Current finish is up to you. Wheel silver paint holds up well plus clear lacquer if you wish. Silver/blue zinc plate is good if the surface isn't damaged with rust. Engine including sump is red. Front timing cover can be silver too. It's an alloy casting so will get a bit scruffy over time.
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If they were originally in that CAD finish I guess there are some things that just aren´t worth keeping original... |
Very slick organisation =>
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I must say I´m impressed so far with the ¨Klassieker Volvo Vereniging¨
Very slick organisation Got a welcome pack today (with a calendar) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518270589 (I realise it might seem a bit rude posting another club´s stuff on this club´s forum but may be it is nice to see how others do it?) I also got my first box of spare parts from them too. (Really I can´t fault it - a club that provides spare parts at a pace that is associated with commercial sellers and at prices that on the whole are about the going rate and sometimes a bit cheaper - I´m sure they´re making a profit for the club too - and I have the feeling I´m supporting an organisation that is also supporting my new Volvo habit!) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518270589 Despite the box being sent via the absolute worst courier company in Holland - DHL hell - it did actually make it here in one piece and within their ever changing predicted time... ...it was worth hanging about all day today for this => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518270589 I have that sodding front cross member - I can carry on welding tomorrow! Yeee haaaa (Grandma) |
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...light=katterug Post #9 |
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...you see if I´d had my arm twisted I would have translated it as the back of the cat |
Right OK - not quite what I expected
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Today I had a few milliseconds to play with the angle grinders.
Not that I´m paranoid but I thought it was worth checking if the replacement front cross member was the same size as the old one! https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518364267 Not that I´m paranoid (#2) but I thought it was worth measuring between the two chassis legs before cutting the old cross member away https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518364267 Not that I´m paranoid (#3) but it looks like I need to drill some drain holes in the new cross member as there seems to be a lot of stuff that gets stuck in there. Just look what came out => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518364267 Not that I´m paranoid (#4) but I might weld plates on the ends of this tube and skip the drain holes... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518364267 Despite careful cutting and slow slow grinding I was caught on the hop. I thought that once the cross member tube was cut away I be able to see into the chassis legs. I was surprised to see that the ends of the chassis legs are boxed in / closed off => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518364267 ^^^^^^^ Nice bit of upside down welding is needed (arse) |
This is taking longer than I thought possible!
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Blinking heck
Grinding away the welds on the underside of the other chassis leg went well https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518454021 The holes I´ve made in the other end however are not playing ball. I like the controllability of TIG welding but in this case it is proving not to be a good method of welding as the inside of the chassis leg is full of waxoyl / rust proofing goo... ...rust proofing goo in the big scheme of things is welcome right up to the point when you want to weld (!) I´ve resorted to arc welding (which is taking a long time but getting there)... |
Small diversion from the welding =>
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I decided to have a look at the state of the vehicle under the rear wings...
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518708855 Left hand wing came off really nicely and easily - so far I can´t see any rust problems there - so billy bonus https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518708855 Rear right hand wing has been messed about with a bit more so odd fasteners and BS like that was occurring - still it came off Only a small amount of rust there => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518708855 Bumper stays and tow hitch have also been removed for repainting and so I can get into the boot and sand that dreadful black paint away and get it to be the same as the outside body colour https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518708855 |
Valentines day suprise!
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Yesterday (Valentines Day) I got a letter! I got all excited thinking that ¨she´s finally found me!¨ but it wasn´t that at all...
...the letter was from the previous owner trying to flog me some spares (I had bought the car via a dealer remember?)... ...bought a replacement grill insert from him but the rest of the stuff wasn´t for me. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518709267 I managed to glean a bit of information from him though - the car has been more recently painted than I thought but it seems as though he wasn´t especially happy with the job. I got the feeling he was on a bit of a downer about the car after the paint job had been done. I´m still of the opinion that the actual paint job is a good job - but I can see that the fit and finish of the bits that went back on over the paint is a bit ham shank... ...in other news - late night shopping on ebay strikes again (oh no!) - this time it was a Madonna bra extended nipple Marchal fog lamp that needs a fair amount of help https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518709267 This will match the one that came with the car - it is in an equally dreadful state but they should look the part after a bit of cocking about. |
Question about rear wing mud flaps
Can anyone help with the position of this part =>
https://www.volvokv.nl/media/com_hik...oad/276518.jpg It is apparently an additional part of the mud flap / under rear wing set up For example: Does it fit above the wheel or to the rear of the wheel? |
It goes behind the wheel. I'll take a photo tomorrow.
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Here you are, these may help, if you can see past the mud!
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...umm off to find that spares book I go... ...there´s also more modern aluminium inner wheel arch kits available that seem to cover most of the wheel (a bit like the plastic wheel arch inserts found on modern cars) https://www.volvokv.nl/media/com_hik...ad/9920731.jpg However at about 150 euros a pop for the set I reckon I can make something a bit cheaper than that. |
Front cross member progress
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A few days back I cleaned up the underside of the chassis rails and coated this area in cold galvanising Zinga stuff - I learnt about Zinga via Land Rovers where lots of stuff is galvanised...
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518884001 ...much like normal (hot) galvanised parts you need to be very careful when welding it - the fumes can kill ya deed. Still Zinga reckon it is something you can weld through if you´re careful with PP. Jigging up the position => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518884001 Trouble at mill => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518884001 Welding with TIG proved to be pretty inappropriate - too much of the rust proofing gunk kept coming out of the joints from the chassis rails - making the welding area way way too dirty for TIG I resorted to welding with farm yard arc welding rods - say what you like about stick welding on cars but it has gotten me out of many a tight spot before when things are just too grotty to get decent penetration. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518884001 I´ve finished the front bits but as I´m taking out the engine to reseal all the leaks I figured I might as well remove the subframe and get better (welding) position for the harder to reach parts on this front cross member. So to be continued |
´Cos the subframe is coming out...
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...I figured I might as well give the front suspension a bit of a refresh
(This is how it usually goes - I´m one of those ¨well as I´m there I might as well do that as well¨ mechanics - this often ends in disaster with too many parts in jam jars and bits spread all over the place - so this could be fun!) I must say it is just as well I didn´t bother test driving the car before I bought it - I´d never have taken it on - it must have handled like the Good Ship Venus in a swell. Anti-roll bar rubbers are a bit done in https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518884870 Springs out! Nice and easy to do on this car - no effing expensive spring compressors needed https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518884870 ^^^^^ Uncompressed length = 25cm - I have to look up that spec - will report back (!) Seems like a grease gun hasn´t been used for a while Bushings need replacing https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518884870 |
Thinking about springs
Anyone here gone through a process of checking suspension springs?
Book says Unloaded length ~ (approximately) 255mm [So my springs seem to fit that specification] Length when loaded with 435 +/- 12 kg => 177mm [Why 435kg? I guess that must be the expected weight of the front end of the car?] Length when fully compressed => max 113mm [I´ve got an expensive internal spring compressor for a Mercedes that would enable me to do this but really it seems a bit OTT even for me] Loading required for compression of 1cm Measured within spring range 155 - 200mm => 59 +/- 2kg [Hmmmm - how would I...] Useful information that is quite hard to use in practice... ######### So the point of this post - is there an official ride height specification for the PV? I can´t find that even in the section for tracking adjustments - many vehicle manufacturers specify ride height before you start messing about with castor camber and toe... |
Right err what happened today?
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...
Front suspension is now almost down to component parts (I´m really happy when they´re in bits) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518966800 Slight problem with the upper control arms - what do Volvo chaps call them - wishbones isn´t it? https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518966800 Anyway - strange design trying to get four threads to match up - not surprising there´s a cross threaded nightmare... ...that needs to be fixed I guess. ########## Share your experiences with this please! ########## Ahhh look at that - little beach buggy in the sand https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518967169 Meanwhile the idler arm was waggling about so much I thought it was taking the **** - so I whipped that apart only to find the internal shaft and bore to be in really good condition! I was shocked - I was expecting the worse. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518966800 Looks like I´ll get away with new plastic washers and shims https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518966800 Caught in the nick of time I say - kind of justifies the mass disassembly which to many might seem like madness... |
One not so nice thing found
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First downer on the car
This might sound like a good old whinge but this really is the first thing I´ve found on the car that I´m not happy about. I don´t like botch jobs https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518967336 I can fix this of course but I don´t like the thought of figure of eight holes on brake parts. |
Bump!
Can anyone help with this upper control arm cross threading trouble?
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1518966800 The upper control arms themselves seem to be in good nick apart from a bit of the threads for this inner side mounting I´m thinking I´ll get new insert threaded nuts and loctite them in place on the upper control arm... ...the outer nuts will hold the axle bar in position... {Perhaps I need to show this pictorially?} |
Your "botch job" on the brake parts is the result of fitting the disc brake conversion. I don't think it is anything to worry about.
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Check the inner corners of the lower spring seat. There are sometimes stress cracks there.
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From my experience of other vehicles it does seem a bit of a light weight system. Having seen a few videos (in Dutch - I can link if you want but seems like few here will understand the mumblings) on the subject of hard plastic suspension sports bushings they look to me like a bit of a bad / short lived ¨upgrade¨... |
Milestone post
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Engine is oooooooot ready for a clean, a bit of a repaint where necessary and a reseal of the gaskets.
Most of the leaks seem to be coming from the valve cover however https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519140206 ##### Can anyone help with gearbox ID please? The casting number on the side seems to be 380100 I´ve googled and the closest I´ve seen is a gearbox for sale in Holland with the same number - they say it came out of a 1966 Amazon. I´m pretty sure it is a four speed gearbox https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519140465 The many Volvo parts dealers seem to think the number above is a resealing kit for an overdrive - so I might not be reading the number right - or I´m looking at duh wrong bit The bell housing number is 418424 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519140206 This might ´elp (?) |
Google images seem to suggest it is a M40
http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1umsdt4b.jpg http://forums.aaca.org/topic/281509-...-transmission/ Does that seem right? |
Come on chaps and chapettes...
...help a newbie out!
Bump for the gearbox ID please Also whilst I´m at it how about a bit of education concerning Weber Carbs? A Weber carb with the gucci inlet manifold has been fitted to the B20 - is this a modification worth having? |
Looks like an M40 to me. As for the Weber conversion, mine has one, and goes really well, but who knows what else has been done?
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Stick with SU's
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Electronic Doo- Da
Bud, could that plug be for the sump warmer in winter?
As for the gearbox put the gear lever back in and just see if you can get the gears reverse is over too the left and up. P Cannon |
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(My plug-in hybrid comment was an attempt at a joke - it is a block heater - there´s also a socket in the passenger foot well so you can have a fan heater warming the cabin too) |
Mini update
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Too cold for paint (-9 / -10 at night and barely above freezing during the day time despite the best efforts from the sun) so I´m taking stuff to bits and getting ready for other parts that need paint instead.
Hidden behind the heater box and the steering column there´s a bit of trouble from a leaking brake fluid reservoir - classic 6mm wide pipe expected to seal in an 8mm bit of tubing (doh!) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519569943 And on the other side of the engine bay / bulkhead there´s a bit of rust because there isn´t a heat shield above the exhaust https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519569943 In order to get the exhaust pipe out of the way (with out killing it) I´m removing the back axle (which also could do with a lick of paint) so the propshaft had to come out too https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519569943 It has been a while since I´ve seen a fix like this! https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519569943 Funny as ###$ So centre propshaft bearing is going to be fixed properly which will hopefully negate the need for jubilee clips... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519569943 |
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