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It's forged. Weld it and be happy
Regards, Kay |
The domed red centre Amazon cap and the ribbed PV cap will both fit on the early non perforated wheels.
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Now considering a new one |
Trudge trudge
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Awkward corners de-rusting
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522341049 Boot is almost half done... (well the stripping is almost half done) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522341049 ...that bitumastic goo has taken ages to get off: But once it is gone the angle grinder and wire brush takes over (!) |
Rear axle trouble
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Strange little side grip pieces for the rear suspension bush have come loose =>
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522675720 I´m not sure how import these pieces are. The U bolt assembly goes over the rubber bushing that fits around this tubular part of the axle - these little lips should help hold the bushings in position... ...hmmmm - got a feeling they really ought to be fixed (!) Then there´s the obligatory broken brake pipe of course... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522675720 |
Headlining trouble
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Oh dear
Oh dear Oh dear! Blinking headlining is giving me jip Removing the nails was OK => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522676028 But the next stage (where the workshop manual says to unclip) is more tricky than I hoped. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522676028 It looks to me like there are nasty shark teeth grippy parts on the sides and front of the roof that are threatening to bugger up the headlining on removal... ...anyone here got any tips for removing a headlining intact? |
You could try using something like a filler spreader, with the corners rounded off, and working it between the headlining and the spikes, to lift the fabric off the spikes and then be between the fabric and spikes to let it come free. I think some of the metal strips further forward unbolt from the body.
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seat braces
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Mine also have these. They are the seat mounting braces that prevents the mounting from breaking away Ta Kassie |
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I´ve done a sketch => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522688943 I might be able to lift from the back end of the headliner though - I´ll have another look at it tomorrow |
Messing about with new paint dreams - someone on the KV forum (Dutch volvo club) said that a colour code 72 PV544 was sold recently in Holland =>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHO-...ature=youtu.be (My PV left the factory with 72 - which is why I´m considering it) Doesn´t look so bad - the colour suits the vehicle style... ...I think... ...compared with the gaudy red it is now... |
Solution for headlining removal
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Turns out I was correct in my assumption of how the headlining is held in place on the sides and front of the roof.
The shark´s teeth system is used - the headlining is folded and stuffed in between the body and the toothed ribbed bit. It is a bit tedious to remove. I resorted to brute force and hoiked it out of position a bit with a flat blade screwdriver (not what screwdrivers are designed to do but hey ho this isn´t the first time they´ve been used this way and it probably won´t be the last) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522763034 Sometimes the headlining comes out easily other times you wish you hadn´t started this job! https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522763034 Once the sides have been released - working from the front of the vehicle - the hoops holding up the headlining can be twisted 90 degrees towards the back of the car and then compressed / bent out of their positioning holes. When my headlining was fitted someone was careful enough to wrap each end of the hoops in fabric before fitting. The last hoop at the back of the car was the only one to be held in place with two clips => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522763034 Turns out the shark´s teeth bits above the doors are screwed onto the body whereas the other rear and front sections are spot welded into place. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522763034 (Ignore super bright red welding overalls!) These removable front sections can only be removed with the headlining out of position but it is done this way to allow access to the windlace / fabric edging around the doors. #### After a little bit more removal of bits I now have a stripped shell https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522763034 (This wasn´t the plan but as I used to say ¨it came off in me hand chief¨) |
OK next question:-
1960´s audio set ups
Some bugger has cut up the dash to fit a modern radio (I will be fixing that) Presumably the same bugger cut two effing big holes in the inner side A pillar sections to fit some round loud speakers. I expect that very same bugger cut two nasty effing big holes in the rear parcel shelf too... ...the parcel shelf is definitely going to be treated to some new metal. BUT I was thinking => What did Volvo do? The made provision for a radio in the dash but where did they put the loud speaker or loud speakers? I´m assuming a 1961 vintage vehicle wouldn´t have had an 8 track stereo set up because Phillips hadn´t made it / released it back then so a double speaker system probably isn´t likely. STILL I just don´t know - can anyone here help? |
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Fastened on side panel
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(Let´s make that big!) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...7&d=1522773096 What´s the box next to the speaker for? |
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The car is 6volt. I have a small12v battery in boot which connects to the multi connector giving a 12v supply for sat nav, teratrip etc. Redundant now that I have fitted 6-12v convertors. one for 12v wash pump and one for lighter socket
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...thanks |
Oh my giddy aunt!
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Bit of welding progress =>
Here´s a typical example of a couple of little holes that you might think are worth blobbing full of filler... ...hmmm - I´d rather cut out and replace with metal. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855367 It took ages for those bits of metal to arrive. I´d ordered them ages ago but the first box had to be sent back because the arrows were the wrong way up. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855367 After a bit of cocking about and a little bit too much filler rod as usual https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855367 It all got ground back to a smooth enough finish for an inner wheel arch https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855367 |
Rear parcel shelf drama
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As you can see someone has had fun in the 1980s with an angle grinder.
I´m not too impressed as the stiffness of this panel is compromised. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855367 I´m gonna do my Cher trick and try to turn back time. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855787 Each speaker hole goes through two panels: This means I´ve decided to repair each panel individually to make the whole repair. So the first bit to be made on the bead roller was just a small bit https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855787 Here I´m cutting away the upper panel so I can weld within the outer part (clear as mud?) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855787 The power file is ideal for this as you can wear away the upper material enough to get it to flip up and be gripped with pliers and twisted at the spot weld away - leaving the lower bit of metal intact (and ideally not bent) Loads of clamps used to position this bit - pain in the arse - they do get in the way of the welding torch. But tack tack tack weld and remove the clamps as you go... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855787 Here´s most of the under bit done - well I say done - there´s more to do but it is done enough for the positioning and manufacture of the upper piece https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855787 Here´s a trial fit of the next bit https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1522855787 I got side tracked thinking about intergrips and then couldn´t find my welding magnets so I didn´t further than this today. In the next few days I´ll finish it off (I guess) and get the other speaker hole repaired too (To be continued) |
Mini update
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...unfortunately I´ve been busy with non automotive stuff so today I eased myself back into it by attacking the rear bumper support.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523284703 Mine have a big 7mm diameter (it was probably an imperial size) rivet holding the two bent bits together. Now I have to find a new one! Still needed to be done to de-rust. ###### Tedious de-rusting continues. This time the calipers (which are from a single Amazon system). They looked OK from the outside: This is usually the time to get them in bits to save them! Once they are really rusty on the outside the internals (in my experience) are done for. As suspected the little pistons on the inner side of the calipers were hard to remove. Their shiny surfaces were a bit rusted so they need to be replaced. I´m a bit concerned about their bores but reckon they can be saved. Loads of de-rusting later and some masking in the right places => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523284703 I´m wondering what the reaction to splitting calipers will be on this forum. On certain forums this evokes full on anger much like the simple question ¨which engine oil should I use¨... ...so we´ll see how that goes (!) {Take cover?} https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523284703 {Incoming?} |
Rear axle progress
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I´ve been struggling (as others do) trying to not buy a special tool for the removal of the rear brake drums...
...in the end I gave up with my various methods and bought a puller => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523380537 [WHINGE] 80 bloody euros for an effing puller [/WHINGE] Anyway now they are off I´m glad I persisted - the brake shoes, whilst they still have a fair amount of meat on them, are cracked. The drums themselves are grooved and a bit done in. I expect it will be cheaper to replace than pay for machine work (very very expensive to get things machined in Holland) ######## With the drums removed it was more apparent that the differential backlash (movement between the crown wheel and the pinion) is pretty dreadful. So I removed the rear cover on the differential => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523380537 With cover removed mk1 eye ball thinks the backlash is about 5mm... ...so that needs to be fixed. ######### Trying to find the drive ratio - numbers on the crown wheel don´t seem to help https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523380537 (Am I really gonna have to resort to counting cogs?) |
Can’t quite see all he numbers. Are there more?
Typically there are 2 numbers separated by a dash, which gives you the ratio Example would be 43-10, which is a .430 ratio 9 12 60 Looks like the date. |
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According to the workshop manual the options would be either 4.1 :1 or 4.56 :1 (We´ll see) |
Looks like you have a Spicer/Salisbury back axle, which would be right for your car's age. According to my manual, the ratio should be on a nameplate on the lower part of the inspection cover.
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...may be I need to get back to the books. As for the rear cover - hmm - well it is still caked in crud (and guess who forgot to take his camera with him to his workshop today to take a picture of the last of the crown wheel numbers...) #### Still I was up late last night looking at differential case spreader designs on the toob of yew - me feels a little project coming on as import duties and postage from the US of A (where these things are common to find - because they seem to have a fixation with solid axles and cart horse springs there!) exceed the cost of the equipment... ...oh deary me this is just not going to get done quickly is it... |
The ratio is originally on a small tag that fits under one of the lower side cover bolts. Not surprisingly, they are often missing.
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More help identifying the differential please
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I got some more pictures (eventually I´ll get there you see)
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523714552 The last few numbers are indeed 4.10 so I reckon the chance is good that that´s the final drive ratio. However - outside on the casting of the axle I have found some patent numbers and these two => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523714552 031480 And a 27 => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523714552 Looking at the vp automotive site for spares (I want new bearings) before I bother trying to adjust the backlash and pinion and crown wheel positions it seems like the 27 might mean M27... ...thing is I get the impression that M27 wasn´t produced with the 4.10 final drive ratio. It could be that I have a bitsa situation as there is evidence of the orange rust preservative paint that I assume was applied in the 1980s (found on other parts of the car too) Whilst I am in the process of banging off another email to vp automotive to ask them if someone here can also help that would be great as it is always nice to have additional confirmation. |
Nice lazy Sundag...
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...when I stumbled upon the self etch primer. Wow! When these things rise to the top you need to seize the opportunity and get the bits you've been waiting to do done.
Steering box casing stripped of paint and ready for the self etch primer (needed on aluminium castings otherwise the paint falls off) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523805027 As I'm getting ready to put the car on a trolley so I can turn the vehicle round and reach the passenger wheel arches more easily: I also got access to engine which was given a bit more degreasing treatment. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523805027 Engine degreaser can be blinking expensive. I found this Dunlop stuff in the Dutch version of a pound shop (yes yes it could in principle be called a Euro shop here but they don't selling anything for one Euro over here!) and I have been surprised by how effective it is considering how cheap it was... |
The upgrades keep coming...
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...though I think this is the last one I'll find
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523885857 What with all the oil leaking all over the engine bay I was considering this upgrade - a modern crankshaft seal. (For those that don't know "they" turn the original hole in the front timing cover so a modern seal can be fitted - at the moment the best deal on the modified timing cover is about 60 quid / 70 euros - so that saves a bit) The seal used is Volvo part number 430132 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523885857 I wonder if the rear has been done as well ...That brings me on to => Flywheel locks 'Cos I've whipped out the distributor for painting the block I locked the flywheel in position before undoing the nut on the front of the crankshaft and removing the front timing cover as I didn't want to lose my timing place. (This isn't 100% reliable and I will have to check the timing but it helps to keep everything in the same ball park when you miss diesel engines and can't be bothered with all of this spark ignition electrickery) Anyway first time for everything BGS 1771 fits like a glove and is cheap cheap - top tip (!) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523885857 ######## Degreasing + sanding + stripping + derusting of the engine block continues => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523885857 Almost done - ran out of wire brush attachments (more on order). It is a shame to paint it really after all that hard work. Engines always seem to look better naked... |
And in other news - some new temporary wheels
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523886554
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523886556 Made a trolley so I can move the body about. It should also be good to take it to the paint shop if I decide to go down that route. Whilst the castors are good for 400kg each I've only used a bit of 4 inch square soft wood for the frame and a couple of old planks that were once from a packing case. The body is really light. I can lift it easily from the front outriggers (where the engine sits) - the back is a bit heavier but is also easy to lift. As a wild guess I'd say the body (once stripped) is about 150kg - 'cos I like measuring I'm going to see if I can find a way of weighing it (just for giggles) |
Loads of other stuff happened...
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...but I'm only ready to show the first coat of the engine paint
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1523979158 The coverage is kind of OK but it will need at least another two coats before I am happy. This first coat is a bit darker than it will be because the iron is still shining through (!) |
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Axle / Differentials
I'm slowly piecing this together. I (now) think the M27 rear axle came with the following final drive ratios
4.55 4.3 4.1 3.9 According to Skandix => Quote:
The M27 is described in the service manual as "semi floating" so that must mean the Panhard rod attachment needs to be there with the coil springs - I assume this differentiates the M27 from the M23 which I guess is the cart horse leaf sprung version fitted to the Duett. Thing is, I can't find a picture of a M30 to see if the differences between that and the others. |
Bit of data
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Here are some rough calculations of maximum wheel speeds (all theoretical no real world losses included) for a PV544
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524125794 The overdrive ratio in a M41 makes one heck of a difference - it is a serious step - which I guess is why they are known to cause a B18 engine to struggle somewhat in a PV |
After three coats...
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...the engine is slowly getting to look a bit less patchy.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146204 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146204 I'm bound to have missed some bits so when it is dry I will tip it upside down / alarmingly on its side so I can get the sump removed and see if more of the red is needed. |
Had time for a quick little welding job today...
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...before I run out of argon (again)
The lip for the boot seal is a little bit moth eaten on the lower edge https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146397 Shame really but I have seen pictures of worse (!) Using a bit of 1mm thick Zincor (coating removed before welding remember) it was an easy job just to tack an extra wide piece in place from the "middle side" of the car towards the outer edge bending a bit has I went https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146397 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146397 (Low amps on the TIG welder and the magnetic welding clamp isn't a great combination but it'll do) Tacked => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146397 Bit too much splodge but I wanted to make sure I had enough penetration - I don't want it cracking off when something heavy gets loaded into the boot and bumps its way in https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146397 Splodge ground / B&D powerfiled away https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146397 Using a bit of masking tape as a guide for where to cut away the excess of the new metal => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146397 (The idea behind the extra large bit of metal is threefold 1: The extra metal helps with heat dissipation during welding 2: The extra metal makes it bigger and easier to hold with welding gloves (!) 3: Trimming the extra metal at the end of the welding process means you don't have to bother / worry about exact pieces not quite fitting as well as you cut them because they moved due to shrinkage whilst welding) Cutting with snips (note difference between LH and RH snips!) on the whole gives a nicer edge than a cutting wheel. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524146397 |
Great thread!..:)
Brings back memories - I had a friend who had one of these and I vividly remember him driving the s%^t out of it. Great cars for the time (and still)! Looking forward to more..:) |
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This Volvo is certainly throwing up a lot less problems than the shed of a Series 2a Land Rover I've also got on the go... ...though some days you do wish you'd never started with some things! Good example was the sump (I was really tempted to buy a new one and be done) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524322757 ^^^^^^^It was in a very grotty state^^^^^^ I wire brushed and wire brushed and wire brushed... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524322757 ...and still it wouldn't come clean with out several coats of the more expensive engine cleaner. After more wire brushing (all angle grinder + wire brush attachment - I'd still be doing it now if I'd tried to do it by hand) it seemed like the oil was finally separating from the rust. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524322757 ^^^^ Stripping disc got rid of most of it Then I treated with a rust killer and finally reached the stage where I can try out that can of VHT barrel paint I bought https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524322757 I'm hoping it will be gucci gucci after all that |
Started to tidy up the holes...
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...that were cut into the under back seat step for the seat belt inertia reels.
This is how the holes looked => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 (All a bit gash really - As said before I'm not leaving it like that) Starting with a bit of Zincor https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 Bending into a stepped Z form https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 Trimming to size https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 Cutting out bits to make 90 degree bends https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 (Top tip) To help with the bending it is best to cut away a circle at the root of the bends so the sides don't distort / make the bends wander https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 Cutting the holes straight in the body (they are also the same size on both sides of the car now! 10cm wide X 12 cm high) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...5&d=1524328786 Trial fit => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 What the boxes look like when done => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524328788 The inner sides of the boxes have been painted (drying as I type). I plan to use a combination of riv-nuts if the pliers will fit and spot welds to fix these boxes in place. This isn't quite done yet - I also need to make some edge trim pieces (these will be screwed into place with self tapping screws) that will hold the under seat trim piece in place To be continued |
Pv544
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Ta Kassie |
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