blueosprey, I NEEEEEED this poster as a scan in original or best you can do.

Pleeeease do it, now I know the perfect gift to a friend of mine.


regards, Kay

Kay; I believe that poster is also in the book "Selling Volvos" (a compilation of advert material which should grace the coffee table of every self-respecting vintage Volvo enthusiast)...featuring such classics and brilliant advert slogans as "Drive it like you Hate it!", "Driving it isn't bad for it", "If you really want to impress someone with your car, tell them it's payed for!", and "This one [pic of 122], is for people who don't like this one [pic of 544], an aren't ready for this one [pic of 1800]"), which I have and can make a scan of if you can't get it elsewhere.

bo90; I don't think painting an epoxy repaired Steering Wheel is so effective as the paint is doomed to wear off...I'd pigment the epoxy, and affect the repair with ST Wh left in-situ. Be aware that normal two part epoxy is extremely runny and will find its way out of what we might believe is an adequate damn...OR you might try a knead-the-two-parts-together-putty-type...pigment that, and work it into the cracks...no post-repair coloring necessary!

Good Hunting!

Mocambique-Amazone, that "poster" is actually a photo of a tee shirt my friend Aashish gave me. My entire summer wardrobe seems to be made up of track day related items!

Aashish got it from Heritage Racing and I think this is the direct link for the shirt. Edit: Oops, it looks like the link is for a baby outfit, but the copy (lower down) indicates that you can purchase as an adult tee shirt, which is what I have.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/4790241...home_active_31


Edit X2: Ooops x2. Here is the actual link for the actual adult tee shirt.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/2088697...-pv444-t-shirt

It seems to be a small shop, and I suspect they could find a way to make the poster up for you.

Good luck.

"bo90; I don't think painting an epoxy repaired Steering Wheel is so effective as the paint is doomed to wear off...I'd pigment the epoxy, and affect the repair with ST Wh left in-situ. Be aware that normal two part epoxy is extremely runny and will find its way out of what we might believe is an adequate damn...OR you might try a knead-the-two-parts-together-putty-type...pigment that, and work it into the cracks...no post-repair coloring necessary!"

Ron, You give me far more credit than I am worthy of. Pigment the epoxy? :) I'm lucky if I can just mix it. Getting it to match is beyond my skill set (but perhaps I'll give it a try!).

I'm planning to use the PC-7 two part epoxy which is what Eastwood sells in their steering wheel repair kit. I understand that it will mix up fairly stiff and workable.

The prior owner's repair consisted of wrapping the deep part of the crack with venetian blind cord and then wrapping the rim with black electrical tape. I'm trying to do better.

I'm having trouble deciding what to do about my floorboards.

My driver's side had some rust through and I thought I would use the POR-15 floor pan kit to treat the floor with the POR-15 and the POR-15 "fiberglass" mesh.

But once I used the wire brush, the amount of rust through is about triple what I thought, maybe affecting 10% of the left half of the floor area. There is also a small amount of rust at the base of the toe board. Still, it all feels pretty solid.

I'm still leaning towards the POR-15 treatment, but floor pan replacement pieces are not that expensive. But I've never welded and fear that I might be in over my head if I attempt a metal replacement - a much bigger project than I anticipated. But then again, if I treat with the POR-15, the next guy may have that much more difficulty because he will have to deal with the POR-15 removal process.

So holding off for now. Plan to look closely at the passenger side within the next few days and then at the trunk and spare wheel area. If all three need metal replacement, I might buy the replacement panels, do some preliminary work and then try to find a body shop to weld in the panels.

But I'm anxious to be using the car this summer as opposed to doing body work.

On the driver's side, it looks like all the rust in from the inside. The underside looks quite smooth.

Steering wheel repair also coming along nicely using the PC-7.

Removing ALL of the rusty metal and fitting new metal is really the only way to go. When a pre formed panel is available it's often quicker and neater to cut out more metal so that the whole repair panel can be used. If you can't weld and have no equipment calling in a mobile welder will be cheaper than a body shop if you do the cutting out and mocking up first. A modestly priced welder, not necessarily the cheapest from Harbour Freight, check Craigslist, would allow you to DIY. Floors are a good place to learn, as perfection isn't a major criteria here. Don't try to weld rusty metal though.

Check out http://barzettiswelding.com/ They do mobile but they also do short courses that start at 1 hour.

I wouldn´t worry about the next guy having trouble with POR-15. It isn´t that good. A wire brush and an angle grinder will remove it easily.

In my experience unless you follow the complete POR-15 process then the chances of success are limited. This means - serious rust removal - aggressive wire brush on angle grinder treatment, then Marine clean degreaser, then metal ready several times with wire brushing in between, then POR-15...

...I have learnt that the whole ¨paint over rust¨ thing is total utter BS. The rust will quite happily carry on rusting underneath the expensive POR-15 paint.

I think you are better off using a proper rust eater such as evaporust / rustyco before using paint treatment like POR-15. Epoxy primers are also worth considering. The POR-15 tie coat primer, however, is an utter bugger to dry in this Northern European climate (!)

I know that welding shop in Bethel and called about two years ago to set up instruction. But life has gotten in the way.

Depressing! I can do nothing. I can try to stabilize. Or I can try to repair properly. I was hoping to stabilize, I think.

Maybe I should just focus my efforts on trying to get the heap ready to "race". Lime Rock beckons with the first event in 6 weeks. Just watch this video between 2:15 and 2:40 and between 12:15 and 12:35. That could be me chugging along as opposed to welding in floor pans!

https://youtu.be/9GLKH7Q-5GM

Doing something with some sort of anti-rust related product will almost certainly slow the rust down. Whether you will pass some sort of tech inspection for racing afterwards is something I reckon you are in an ideal position to judge.

Are you still repairing the MGA then?

MGA? - just about every night after work! But It's still below freezing in the garage and I wish it would warm up.

Last season at about this time, I lent my spare engine to another racer who had blown his engine in his season opener. But he broke the crankcase in my spare engine a week after I broke mine in my main engine. He called last night with news that he is bringing the repaired engine - at least the bottom end - north in about 10 days time. The head is "iffy" - not quite done - but I have a stock head that I can use in a pinch.

On my main engine and another spare block, the machinist has finally made some progress. I already received the rods and I just ordered pistons yesterday. I also have a "ghost main' crankshaft on order (what was I thinking?). But clearly that engine will not be done anytime soon.

I also spent a lot of time preparing another engine block that I originally came with the car. That block is ready for assembly, but I know it is out of spec in some critical areas and am hesitant. But I also don't want to spend any money on that block!

In the meanwhile, I've been working on the chassis, mostly the brakes and the steering rack.

As for the Volvo, I think I can get it on track without a roll bar, running in what they call the "preservation class". Actually, some members of the club are quite anxious for me to bring it. The biggest issue facing me is seat belts. Otherwise I need a fire extinguisher, overflow catch cans for the engine (oil) and radiator and to safety wire the drain plugs for engine, transmission and differential. New tires would be nice, but I think I might have a short term solution.

The floor board is quite solid enough and won't be an issue. :)