Front Calipers
 

Spent 4 hours this morning trying to free the pistons on the front caliper. Popped them out on the brake pedal using a thinner piece of wood in place of the pads, dust seals were damaged and looks like somebody had a go before with some slight damage on the lip of 1 piston. No way of getting the pistons to move back in, despite opening the bleed nipples and levering with an 8 inch flat iron bar with leather pads to protect the piston surfaces, looking more like new calipers, never known pistons as tight in as these. Pic enclosed, new battery tray fitted, ( plastic type ) MOT re-test a bit further away now due to calipers. Anybody know what size the solid brake pipe connections to the caliper are then I can make up a ( female ) stop end connection to prevent fluid loss. Cheers

3/16's pipe and I think the unions are 10x1mm

I second that.

I have once resorted to removing the disk, replacing the caliper, and then driving a log splitter wedge between the opposing pistons. It freed in the end, and then after the usual working it in and out a dozen times it worked perfectly.

on my motor bike calipers its a bye anual job popping pistons out removing seals cleaning with the dremal then rebuilding with new seals they work great when you put em back on surly this can be done with car calipers

I'm currently struggling with this issue...this is the last issue I have to overcome before the MoT, and I've had enough now! The piston won't budge at all, I've had G-clamps, wedges, big arrives as a lever, packed it and pumped the brakes...I think it's time for a new caliper...well...another new caliper. Grr.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ps174d096a.jpg

Have you tried a proper caliper retraction tool, like this one from MachineMart?

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/se...ype/any/page/1 and look for "CHT268".

It'll shift just about anything.

what about gentaly heating the caliper with a blow touch /lamp .
dont cook it just get it warmed up

For what rebuilt calipers cost just get some exchange ones. They are only about the same price as a seal kit and new pistons that you would need to do the job yourself. The big advantage is it is all checked out and done by an expert. They are also pressure tested to make sure nothing like this happens

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y82...e/PIC_0344.jpg

Yeah...I've looked at the piston spreader etc and I think I'll bite the bullet and get a new caliper, I've already replaced one if the rears about 3 weeks ago but this one is causing the front wheel to make a grinding noise when moving. That's another £75 to add to the £1000s I've spent so far! Better to be safe though!