Coolant leak..
i've recently noticed on my 1995 960 that the coolant is disappearing but theres no sign of where to and the car doesn't over heat and there is no sign of it getting into the oil. Anyone else experienced this ? or have any idea what might be causing it.
Thanks Connor |
I had quite a time tracing my coolant leak. The first leak was from a pipe into the radiator and was shown by a tell tail of white stuff on the side of the radiator, where the coolant had dried off. That was cured by tightening jubilee clips. I still lost coolant.
That then resulted in the weakest pipe springing a slight leak, which had to be replaced. I still lost coolant. I the noticed coolant leaking from the water pump, which had its seals replaced. I still lost coolant. I then found the footwell was damp, coolant was leaking into it from the heater matrix. I fixed that by adding Radweld. Now, no leak! |
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If this is the case, do it ASAP as the water won't do your box any favours! Other than that, all usual suspects apply, hoses, expansion tank cap, water pump etc. I had a 740 once that sprouted a pinhole leak in the radiator top hose - sprayed all over the fan which then showered the plugs and dizzy cap causing a very odd misfire. Every time i stopped to lift the bonnet and check for broken/loose HT leads, the leak stopped (engine off) so the very fine mist dried before i got the bonnet up. It was such a small leak that the coolant only dropped very slightly and wasn't noticed. |
yes it's an auto, i will look at the auto fluid level tomorrow.The level has dropped fairy quick as i topped the coolant up Friday and it is now back at the min mark on the tank. Other than a high reading are there any other sign's that it may be in the auto box fluid.
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If there's enough water in the ATF it will go a sickly pink sort of colour instead of raspberryade red, sometimes this first shows as a slightly milky hue or bubbles in the fluid.
You might also notice a few slurred or harsh changes, particularly reverse and/or second gear or the box taking longer to engage D first thing in the day. |
so many possibilities, and I've had most of them!
Heater core - look for coolant in the driver footwell UNDER the carpet Heater valve - if yours is climate control, the heater valve is a vacuum actuated device behind the cylinder head. Its FRP (same stuff as the radiator end tanks) and fractures after a while of heating/cooling cycles. Radiator end tanks - as above If yours is a B230 960 (a turbo) the water pump bypass tube. Again the B230, the oil cooler hoses. Again the B230, coolant/combustion chamber leaks - head gasket. And thats just the one's I've had... |
I just had this issue, for me it was the heater control valve behind the engine just below the distributor. I only noticed it from a certain angle on the bell housing
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Mines a non turbo. Just 3.0 24v but does have climate control so will look into the heater valve idea. Thanks
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Look closely at the water pump top 'O' ring, and the heater hose that runs from the back of the left hand side of the block around the back of the engine (it's difficult to see).
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Header tank
Bottom connection of the plastic header tank (expansion). The plastic hose connection has a metal insert which can expand slightly due to corrosion. This will cause the plastic around it to split.
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