Are you actually looking for a connector enclosure? When I read junction box I think of a box with terminals to connect wires.

Indeed - I want a snazzy box in which I can hide the plastic connectors

I was thinking along the lines of some sort of branded automotive thing - such as an empty can of oil =>

https://api.kroon-oil.com/img/web/pa...x560/34534.png

Thing is I'd rather have a larger screw lid so I don't have to modify the tin too much. The plan would be to make a bracket and some form of strap to hold the box in position - I reckon it would be nice to see something that's automotive and has been reused...

Something like this? Modifications required for the wires. Maybe a U shaped slot at each end with a rubber grommet around the wire.

http://www.anboxelectric.com/sale-79...enclosure.html

I've seen several options a little bit like that - ones with special grommets for the wires too but they're all a bit modern. I might get one like that for under the dashboard / passengers foot well but for the connection points in the boot and the engine bay I'd rather have something a bit different.

Keep on keeping on
 

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1550069798

FOR i = 1 TO INF

Figure out the colour and size of the wire

Cut wire to length

Find correct connector

Strip end of wire to suit connector

Apply magic goo to end of wire

Fit wire and connector in crimping pliers

Crimp connector

Check connector is properly crimped and that the fixing for the insulation also came good

Cut correct sized heat shrink to size

Fir heat shrink over new joint

Heat heat shrink

Stick connector in correct hole

i = i + 1

END i

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1550069798

Flippin' 'eck!

Question about polarity
 

I've got some gucci little micro relays that have a diode in them to help stop interference with electronics when the relays operate

These things come with a warning about polarity - unfortunately the ID numbers on the terminals are the normal numbers used on most relays - so I'm in a bit of a fog.

https://static.webshopapp.com/shops/...12v-20a-no.jpg

Terminals 3 and 5 look simple enough - they're for the switch

Terminals 1 and 2 however are the bit that sends the power to the thing you're controlling.

I assume terminal 1 would be connected to the fuse box and the battery (via ignition key for most things) and terminal 2 would go to the thing I'm controlling - the load (such as a fog light)

The thing that's causing a bit of confusion is that unlike most diagrams for a diode the diagram on the outside of the relay has the anode (+) on the blocked side of the diode diagram...

(I guess this is an indication I need to go back to the www school of finding stuff out - but I thought I'd ask here just in case I've got the wrong end of the stick and end up convincing myself regardless)

Army;

Sorry, but if you were to hook it up the way you explain, it wouldn't work (Explanation: The circuit elements pictured on relay show what is inside relay, not how it should be connected externally!)...so terminals 3, 5 are the high current contacts which should be wired in series with high current load this relay is intended to control, and terms 1 and 2 are the coil whose current is controlled by the dashboard switch...the switch can either supply a connection to power (referred to as high side switching, with other side of coil connected to chassis/power return) OR it can supply a connection to chassis (referred to as low side switching, with other side of coil connected to power). The relay doesn't know or care...it only knows coil current is flowing, or none is flowing, so this gives installer some wiring options.

When there is a diode included (for the purpose of clamping voltage upon opening the circuit and breaking current flow, thus quenching switch contact arcing...preventing a pop on an AM radio is only a secondary benefit) polarity must be observed, and it should be positive on the Cathode (pin 1).

Example for wiring Fog Lights with automatic enabling at Lo-Beam only (if diodes were present, Cathodes would be on relay term 86 and 30/51):
http://www.sw-em.com/fog_light_suggested_wiring.JPG

Cheers

PS: I also recommend you consider adding an Ignition Slave Relay to not pass current of additional Ign powered loads through the poor Ign Switch! See: http://www.sw-em.com/Ignition_Slave_Relay.htm

Thanks Ron - I think I got me numbers muddled up

When looking at the relay it is clear to see which pins are for the switch and the load (wider pins are for the load)

I was a bit more worried about the polarity (I dodn't want to mess up the diode) but can now see what I'm meant to do - thanks

The ignition switch saving advice is something I'm planning to adopt

I'm probably completely off track here but how about an old household bakelite fuse box as an enclosure? Right period, admitedly not automotive but you could incorporate a master cutoff switch where the master would be on the household box.
Shame fuse boxes are rectangular as if they were round I reckon an old Castrol grease tub would have been a good option giving you a screw top but being plastic so the threads don't corrode ust as you need to get in.
On my Defender seat box I installed a circular screw thread locker opening (similar to this, others are available, https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/162569648620?chn=ps) which you could install to any type of right sized container.
Apologies if this is just useless waffle. (Gets me closer to my 30 posts after spending time writing a PM today and finding I can't send it).

Apologies if this is just useless waffle. (Gets me closer to my 30 posts after spending time writing a PM today and finding I can't send it).
If you send all the regular contributors to this forum a belated "happy Christmas" greeting you will soon reach your 30 :)