Hi Army, I have no clue about the clips. Did they try to balance the propshaft?
Maybe something connected to a rallye speedo?
Your 544 seems healthy

good luck, Kay

Yep the idea is to change the balance of the propshaft by adding a bit of weight.

It is a pain in the backside to try and do this - it is possible to spend more time adjusting the clip positions and test driving the results than it would be to fix the problem properly.

This propshaft design is a bit of a strange one. The first universal joint (UJ) next to the gearbox isn´t going to move too much because of the centre propshaft bearing holding it straight. This does induce Brinelling - a notchy feel to the joint. As the centre propshaft bearing wears the notchiness of the first UJ will probably feel like vibration - I guess that´s why whoever added some weight to the propshaft to try and make it behave differently...

...only problem is they´ve added weight / changed the dynamics of the system at a part that doesn´t seem to have anything wrong with it!


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I´m just going to replace the three universal joints and the centre bearing and perhaps check the static balance of the shaft if I can rig up some bearings to support the ends (this probably won´t happen as I´m pushed for time with this project - so I´m more likely going to be refitting it and hoping for the best)

The jubilee clips are from DIY balancing. If it has worked, they are effective and you might as well leave them on. You might have some rectangular plates welded to the tubes and this is the original method. A good prop shaft shop can balance the complete shaft dynamically. They can swap in new U/J's at the same time. Not too expensive. I know you want to do as much as possible yourself but as you say, doing trial and error balancing with clips is no fun.

I´m sure the jubilee clips were as effective as a hand brake on a canoe - I´m going to fix the problem rather than attempt to use the force (!). The centre propshaft bearing is on order...

As for the carb I´ve found a number on it

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519665638

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519665638

Does anyone know about the Weber 36 DCD?

(Seems to be popular-ish on VW Golfs)

Far too cold today for real work...
 

...luckily something arrived in the post that needed some rust removal and a lick of high temp paint

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519839524

I really wanted to get the original flywheel skimmed but it turned out to be cheaper to buy a pre-skimmed example from a large Dutch supplier

Interesting. Never known one to be painted......

I don´t like rust

In fact I hate the stuff

Having declared war on rust and the causes of rust (!) I carefully remove the rust but am painfully aware of not putting on too too much paint (i.e. adding weight) to this balanced part - a couple of thin sprayed coats is all it needs to help keep it gucci for a few years (after that the winner of the war on rust will prevail)

Army;

I am following this thread with interest...

I hate rust too, but science is science...so we have to admit, that when we harvest iron from the earth, part of refining it, and into turning it into that wonderful Swedish steel we know and love, is taking the oxygen out of it...and forever thereafter, oxygen will be looking to recombine with it...it's just mother nature being herself. A good friend of mine and physics teacher (also appreciator of vintage Volvos) said that if he had anything to do about it, he would allow oxygen to combine with iron only once...nice thought...!

BTW, I don't have a problem with you painting your Flywheel...just be certain that there is NO PAINT on the interface surface between it and the Crankshaft...paint in compression in-between precision critical surfaces like that is a no-no...but you knew that!

Cheers

Thanks Ron

I´m happy to report that I´ve been a good boy! I even masked up the contact surface for the clutch plate before spraying =>

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519922459

The last thing I want is some sort of plasticy goo messing things up for the first few miles

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I appreciate your interest in the thread - the big plan is to try and get the car back together again by the end of March - so forum based interest is greatly received as it helps fuel things along

Army;

...ahem...not to be a stickler...but I must...I would like to point out that what you've masked there is the friction surface (good!)...but I would also recommend masking the (6, plus associated) contact surfaces where Clutch Cover will be bolted to Flywheel...the point is not to have a layer of paint which might cold-flow and change /(reduce under heat and pressure) thickness and thereby promote critical fasteners to loosen causing a disaster...or worse...

Cheers