Volvo Owners Club Forum

Volvo Owners Club Forum (
-   200 Series Articles (
-   -   Simple rear trailing arm bush tool (

DW42 May 28th, 2011 11:47

Simple rear trailing arm bush tool
1 Attachment(s)
I have just done the dreaded rear TAB replacment on my 240. I was hoping to use the original shell with poly bushes, as detailed by Mike Brace on this forum. But the shell on one side of my 240 had a rust hole in it, so I couldn't do this easy option, and had to install Volvo rubber bushes.

Having looked at how to make a homebrew rear TAB tool at:
I found it quite difficult to source a pipe coupling in the UK like the one required to make the tool. I also didn't think I could drill through it accurately first go. So I made a similar tool out of washers, a hole saw, and a nut and bolt. This is what I used (washers purchased on Ebay):
A pack of 4 M36 flat washers (5.95, shipping included).
A pack of 10 M30 flat washers (5.19, shipping included).
A pack of 10 M24 flat washers (4.19, shipping included).
A pack of 20 M12 penny/repair washers (2.80, shipping included).
A 7 inch M12 bolt and nut.
A 64mm hole saw (which came in a set of cheapish hole saws that I have).
A bit of very thick plastic pipe, cut to size and placed at the bottom of the bush ears on the axle (to stop them from bending in).

The photo attached shows how I set the washers up, piling them from largest to smallest at both ends of the tool. I used a big pile of M12 repair washers on each end of the tool. An M36 washer will sit quite nicely on the bush at the pushing in end, and the 64mm hole saw makes a perfectly sized bushing receiver. Putting an M36 washer on the hole saw will stop it from collapsing in when you crank the bushing through. To push the bushing out you need to use the M30 washers at the pushing end -- M30 is the same as the diameter of the bush. I had to push mine back out after I realised that I had it in upside down. I don't think that this tool will be strong enough to remove a rusty old bush -- old bush removal is easy enough using a drill on what's left of the rubber, then collapsing the metal part with a hammer and chisel.

Hopefully the photo is detailed enough to see what I did. The photo certainly makes the underside of my 240 look like a rusted old hulk, but it's actually all pretty solid.

I hope this is a useful alternative TAB replacement option.


LINK to original thread

All times are GMT +1. The time now is 22:49.

Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.