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Mike_Brace Jan 29th, 2011 23:34

Guide to rustproofing
There has been a lot of discussion about rustproofing 240s. Have just stripped a 240 estate to bare shell I thought I would post some pictures to show the areas that will benefit from waxoyling. I would appreciate any comments and suggestions so we can build up a good guide.

I'll start from the back. One of the very common problem areas on both saloons and estates is where the floorpan meets the rear panel. You can see how they both curve in and are then spot welded together. This makes a good rust trap. This estate is good which is unusual. A good application of waxoyl to the inside of the join is a good idea:

Moving forward another area with a spot welded lip is the wheel arches. From inside a good amount of waxoyl can be applied between the wing and inner arch.

Moving forward to the sills there are access points along the length covered with a plastic plug. This one has less available being a later model so rerar half would be accessed through the seat belt mounting. Also the B pillar can be treated paying special attention to where the hinges are mounted. Also be careful not to block the drain holes in the sills as these drain the water from the air intakes.

This one shows the front part of the sill and the other cpommon rot point which is the A pillar as can be seen here is already rusting:

This one shows the problem with the A pillar better. In front of the A pillar early cars have a vent which provides access to the void that takes the water down from the air intake - another place to waxoyl.

The other obvious areas are the bottoms of the doors (keep drainage holes clear). It is worth ensuring the plastic in the door is intact as this keeps water from damaging the door cards. Also bottom of the tailgate or boot and the leading edge of the bonnet.


Paul240480 Jan 30th, 2011 10:08

Another common point is around the rear shock mount area. You may recall my finding these holes in 'Tank' a while back.
If you can get to these early enough (like I did by chance) it will not be too bad. A mechanic inspected mine & found it only to be the inner floorpan. Under the car was solid & is now waxoyled.

As Mike pointed out, that lip at the rear. Mine was apparently quite good!

Repairs, well mine ended up like this, a small plate was spot welded over the biggest hole inside the car. I then sprayed waxoyl down into the cavities. Filled the holes with instant metal & slapped 2 coats of Hammerite on.
Under the bumper, I Kurusted, filled with fibre resin, then put 2 coats of Hammerite on. The area cannot be seen once the bumper is back:thumbs_up:

It only takes a few minutes to check these points, & those Mike points out. It will be a few minutes very well spent:thumbs_up:

tannachyallen Jan 30th, 2011 13:08

Great Mike, the start of another excellent 'How to'.

The mechanic I use gave me some 'Add-It Clear Grease' spray which he uses on exposed surface rust. Areas like trailing arms or suspension members that are meaty bits of metal that just have a corroded surface. It sprays realy thin and then starts to creep and get more viscous, but never fully dries. It has big temperature tollerences and seems to resist being worn off by water etc when driving.

chesters6 Jan 31st, 2011 21:56

Damn you more work for the summer ,pointless trying this time of the year the water you dunk the waxoyl can in to get it fluid goes cold to easily.
found a brand new tin at a bootfair yesterday for 2 so i have no excuses to not to

Paul240480 May 31st, 2011 20:02

Reading this thread: prompted me to search for this one that Mike started. It was intended to become a guide with folks adding there findings as and when to provide a mass of information about the dreaded 'tin worm'. One from which we can all benefit.
So here it is 'bumped'. PLEASE do add to it. I'll give it a couple of days and then will ask for it to be added to 'articles' with a link back to this 'original thread' like the others .
Thanks for reading:thumbs_up:

Link to original thread.

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