Track control arm polybushes
 

Hi all

I'm getting a little confused about which bushes are which.

I have the spaceship polybushes to fit but I want to fit the polybushes that go the other end of the track control arm at the same time as I have the arms off.

Are the super pro bushes SPF2012K the correct ones https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7918...ushing-700-900

Or are these the ones for the rear of the arm

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/7825...t-poly-700-900

Thanks in advance

The TCA bushes link two arms together so to be clear

Going into the front arm that does into the crossmember

https://www.classicswede.co.uk/Super..._17823204.aspx

and then going backwards the bush in teh same position as the 360 tie bar bushes

https://www.classicswede.co.uk/Super..._17823202.aspx

the inner suspension arm bush is fun to change, my bush puller couldn't get enough force, so I had to beat it inside out. Literally fold the inner metal up through hole.

To be honest I would just go for standard bushes for replacements, I couldn't justify the poly ones for the inner. Even the spaceship ones cause car parking skip I think.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it Luke! :thumbs_up:

I've seen many reports on here that agree exactly with what Tony said about polybushes. If you've got the spaceship polybushes, i'd say fit those and see how you get on driving on them - if you really want to tighten the front up more then perhaps consider the control arm to chassis bushes but unless yours are seriously worn, they won't make a lot of difference, even renewing with standard rubber and i suspect you may transfer an unacceptable level of vibration with stiffer poly bushes in them. ;) :D

I was going to use the arms off the car I'm breaking and fit the bushes to that so I didn't have to take my car off the road to fit it.

I have a hydraulic press at work that makes changing bushes very easy!

However if you you don't have a press then a good way of doing them is to heat burn all of the rubber out, then heat up the sleeve in a line so it has a cherry red line up the middle. Then use something the same size as the sleeve if you can and if not then a punch and a hammer and you will be able to hit the whole sleeve out. I did it to the rear axle bushes and chassis bushes at work yesterday on a 1957 Bentley S1.

My spaceship bushes and potentially rear ones are shot so when I reverse with a bit of lock the whole car jumps around!

Other than car park skip are there any other negatives? I can live with that as I used to drive a slammed mk2 golf so a harsh ride is nothing new to me as long as it handles well.

"Car park skip" can also be caused by incorrect wheel alignment - even slightly out and it'll jump about like Zebedee on a pogo-stick! Considering how tight the 7/9xx cars turn and the incredibly tight Ackermann angles involved in the steering, it's no real surprise.

Get your spaceship bushes done then check/adjust the wheel alignment to get rid of as much car park skip as possible, whether that includes doing the rear bushes on the control arms is up to you. Even with standard spaceship bushes and correct wheel alignment, turn a bit too tight on an uneven surface and i get a bit of skip on mine.

I did find in inner main arm bush in a fairly bad state (1995 car), but the rear radius arm bush seems to be much bigger and less stressed. I might not have tightened the first one on the ground and its bonded so constant stress is not good.

A spare set of arms is a great idea. Get them blasted and painted as the seats for the spaceship bushes will be heavily layered with rust that will not just brush off.

Getting them blasted is a good idea and will give a better fit and keep the bushes in better condition.

The front steel lined bush I would on a road car probably go rubber. They last fairly well and I am not a fan of bonded poly bushes. For the price they are on a typical road car might not be worth the risk.
The rear bush I would drop the poly bush in there and then know it job done.

As you have spare arms I would drill and tap for a grease nipple so you can quickly service the poly bushes.

Oddly enough, I noticed a bit of parking skip whilst reversing my 245 on full lock this evening. I'd forgotten about it as my 744 never does it, but my old 945 used to do it like mad.

Is it likely to be down to worn bushes or tracking?

I'm used to working through these cars after buying them and putting all the little issues right, but my 245 has been so well looked after that I've hardly got anything to do! One UJ and an exhaust rubber so far. I'll be doing something tedious like polishing it at this rate 😂

Poly bushes only return the suspension geometry to how it was when new. So if you want it to skip less, stick with the shagged out 20+ year old bushes. Yay.

Changed mine 2.5 years ago. No increase in NVH. No squeaks. Also added the 960 chassis braces at the same time.

You don't have to torque them on the ground. The inner poly bush (SF422-2012K) has a bonded outer shell but the tube inside is not and so can rotate freely, unlike a rubber one.

Only buy from Superflex, nowhere else. You could buy rubber bushes from Volvo but they're going to be around the same price. Aftermarket rubber bushes... no.

https://i.postimg.cc/yxZgDdMc/940frbushes.jpg

Perfect, all the info I needed! Thank you.

I'm going to be doing this job fairly soon on my 945. I am getting everything shot-blasted and then repainted so will be having all new bushes. Still not sure on whether to poly or not ( I'm not worried about handling tbh as the car is used for carting my dog around ) the spaceships rubber from the dealer are more expensive than poly but I wondered if they would be more comfortable ?? Could some be poly and some rubber ?

Where did you get your ball joints from Baggy ? are they Volvo or aftermarket ?

Cheers, Mark

The 1023 are a must in poly

the 2013 would be ok in a good quality rubber but poly is better

The 2012 are expensive in poly and the originals did last ok in rubber so a good rubber bush would probably be best for you in this case

Ball joints are from Lemforder, which I believe are the same as Volvo ones.

New-Genuine-LEMFORDER-Suspension-Ball-Joint-12012-02

Thanks Baggy

I don't know if I misheard the dealer telling me the Spaceship rubber bushes were £22.00 each ?

I've heard Lemforder are good so I think I will go with them for Ball Joints

Cheers

The past 10 or so original Volvo ball joints I have removed are marked TRW and Volvo
TRW also supplied Volvo with ball joints and and track rod ends for the 200 and 300 series


There is a lot of miss use of OEM, once a manufacture supplies a part to one car manufacture they then call themselves a OEM supplier

It worries me when parts are listed at £59.99 discounted down to £11.00 ?? What a load of b0**ocks ! Nearly as bad as the permanent sale at DFS !

You can't go wrong with either Lemforder or TRW, and you can get them both on ebay for £17 each.

How much are the ones from Volvo because people on turbobricks have confirmed Volvo boxes contain TRW ones.

I haven't got a price from Volvo yet. The droplinks are £21.00 each without the bushes and washers though

I'm going in today to get a couple of things so I'll ask then

Cheers

I've done the entire front in poly bushings from IPD. Droplinks and swaybar bushings included. Rear will happen next season.

Not harsh at all and certainly assisted the navigational stability. Can't remember cost but it was not bad and the drop links were significantly cheaper than 21 quid!

The £21.00 is for the actual droplink. The rubber bushes and washers aren't included in cost from dealer

Blimey! :err: I bought a pair of Delphi drop links on fleabay for about £15 delivered, complete with rubber bushes, steel washers and locknut.

That was after a flase start with a pair of (fake) Meyle links for about £11 (allegedly on Special Offer) failed after 2 months..... :realmad:

That's what worries me about some stuff on Fleabay. I'm not sure what to do yet about the droplinks. I may splash out and go genuine :teeth_smile:

-8c here this morning so nothing will be getting done under car this weekend:shocked:

If the rubber bushes and washers/locknuts are available from Volvo, i'd say buy those bits and refurbish your existing drop links. However if the ones on there are pattern ones, the Volvo bits may not fit correctly.

General advice on the pattern parts is don't buy the cheapest, even if they are a known brand on "Special Offer" unless you have dealt with the seller before and know it's a genuine special offer. That's still no guarantee though and the way i view it is if it's cheap enough to buy and does the job, all good. If it's cheap and fails in short order, not too much of a problem but buys you time, particularly if you're near to the MoT time.

I may do that but I'm not sure if the bush at the bottom of the droplink comes out ?

The bottom bush does come out with a bit of fire.


Before buying bushes make sure the nuts will undo. It is not uncommon for them to seize up and shear when you come to undo them. A soak first and then see if they will open ok

I cant seem to find the bottom bush as a part though ?

See pic.

Attachment 118288

Top and bottom top bushes ( no 15 ) but it only lists the nut and bolt at the bottom ?

same as a 240

for poly bushes https://www.classicswede.co.uk/Front...4_8228022.aspx