Volvo Owners Club Forum - Other XC90 Problem:

Rear bottom engine mount replacement with out lowering the SUB FRAME
For xc90 2005 163bhp – D5244T- Engine
This is to replace my engine mount due the engine service required fault message came off when accelerating hard form the start.
Found 6805 code from VIDA. I did the following for diagonising.
• Cleaned the EGR pipe only (not the valve), quite a bit of gunk in there.
• Placed the restrictor plate in the EGR.
• Then cleaned the Turbo governor using a good video from Siroob.
• Changed the hoses for the vacuum lines.
Nothing changed.
Then using Outnumbered guidance and shadeyman -with Mitty vac mv8000 found out the rear mount is leaking vacuum.
I made these instructions because it might help someone in the future.
I got a very big help from LARRY(Laundryman) and Byootox for removal of the rear mount. Thank you guys for that.
If any steps are not right please post it so we can change it. And also be Gentle because this is my first Intractable. This is step by step guide for a learning DIYer for easy understanding. 6 months ago I know nothing about Diesel cars but I learned a quite a bit now.
I take no responsibility for carrying out this process “Do it on your own risk”.
Iam a learning DIYer and eager to do my car repair myself. Pictures in this are taken from the Web for reference. I didn’t give the torque setting s for the bolts though, I can’t remember just now.
Spray One day ago apply penetrating oil to the top mount nut (remember it’s not a bolt) and bottom bolt area in the mount for easy removal.
Put a sticker in the key hob and steering that not to start the car.
Remove the bolt from the middle of top engine mount 18mm. I used one side of the bolt ring spanner and other side nut socket bit, because one side of the bolt is protruding so you can’t fit normal small socket.

Remove the bolts for the front torque rods (two on each sides -13mm)
This will make easier access for the removal of the top nut from the mount / easy removal of the plastic white angle bit connector for the vacuum hose and also for the mount removal from the Top.

Yellow arrow is the sway rod.
Brown arrow is Shroud which protests the mound
Red arrow is the vacuum hose.
Orange arrow is the plastic angle bit connector
The big rod in which the mount sits is the steering rack.

Then from the top using 300mm or two 9” extension bar loosen the top nut with the breaker bar. Then insert tissue paper in the socket end and finally remove the nut (This is to avoid the nut not being dropped into the engine compartment or so).
Remove the vacuum hose running to the mount from the side by gently pulling it away.It will come off easily. Which will leave the white plastic angle bit connector in the mount. Then using long nose plier grab the plastic angle bit connector from the top of the mount via the hole from the engine mount bracket. Just pull it slowly, it will come off easily.
If this bit is not removed prior to the removal process, it will definitely break.
Be careful not to break the bit when using pliers (I’ve order spare, just in case).
This process is little bit tricky but if done properly will be taken out in 5 minutes.
So the Job from the top of the bonnet is done now.

Now we have to go underneath.
Jack up the car in the side part of the front sub frame and rest the car in the sub frame with the axle stand.
This is to create enough room to work under the car for removal of the bottom mount bolt. Choke the car wheels in the back. I had one more axle stand in the front of the sub frame (I was just paranoid because this is the first time I worked under the car) – Extra protection.

Then remove the belly pan which has 4 bolts attached to it. Be careful when removing this because in the back of the pan it has a plastic clip holding steel bit wire (I think it was brake cable). The belly pan can be removed after then.

angle bit connector

Red arrow is the top nut goes . Brown arrow is where the bottom bolt goes and the blue arrow is where the plastic angle connector goes.

Now you can see the bottom bolt of the engine mount clearly but the access is very tight for the removal process.

The red arrow is the bottom bolt. The green thing is sway bar and the orange arrow is the steering rack.
Now you see the blue arrow – That is where the 3/8 extension rod has to go through.
This is because the sway bar line is in between the sub frame and the bolt.
To overcome this I placed 13 mm deep socket on the mount bottom nut.
Then from below I used 3/8 wobble extension bar between the sway bar and the sub frame and inserted it to the socket in a wiggly manner into the socket.
Then use a breaker bar undo the bolt. “Bobs your uncle”, the nut came off like a piece of cake.
This is the hardest part me to figure out how to access the bolt. During this process I broke my UJ and got frustrated how to undo the bolt. But above method is the easy and less time consuming.
Then I removed the transmission mount from the front of the sub frame. This is for the engine to move up freely when lifting it up from the below.
I used breaker bar as well for this process pretty straight forward job.

Then remove the car from the axle stand.
You can ramp the car in the front now, If you don’t have one like me just leave it.
Then using a jack lift the transmission slowly using a piece of wood.

This is sample picture for raising the engine.
Do this process slow and gently. Now the engine will move up slowly because the transmission and the engine is one whole block.
Now from the top you can see the bolt is going down the hole and the engine bracket where we took the nut out is lifting up.
Now the engine mount is free to remove.
Remember there is a shroud on the mount. This cannot be taken out from the top and can be easily removed the bottom. But the engine mount should come out from the top with a bit of wiggle.

Now fitting the new mount is reverse of the removal. But few bits to consider.
Raise the engine little bit more because the new mount will be slightly taller that the old one.
Do not replace the plastic angle connector bit for vacuum hose to the new mount now. This can be done once the new mount is seated properly later.
Now insert the new engine mount from the top and the shroud from the bottom and make sure fit the shroud in the same hole where the top bolt and the plastic angle connector bit goes. This is very important for alignment later when lowering the engine. Then place the engine mount on the place and seat it precisely where it was before. Might need some wiggle and screw the bottom bolt on now by the same way like removal. Do not tighten the bolt yet for the bottom yet.
Now From the top adjust the mount top bolt holes and the plastic angle bit connector. Make sure this is done right otherwise when lowering the engine the bolt will snap if it is not aligned properly.
All of the process till above is done by me but for lowering the engine to the mount I asked help from my wife to lower the jack so I can keep eye on the engine from the top when it slides through the holes. Lowering is done very slowly mm by mm with the jack and it is Crucial. I kept hold on the side of the mount for the proper alignment of the mount. Remember only on the side , if the fingers are on top of mount, you will get the finger crushed when the engine lowers.
Once all seated properly put the top nut on back on using the same as before with tissue in the socket – so it won’t fall off. Don’t tighten it now though. Now you can put back the plastic angle bit connector in the vacuum hose and insert it to the engine mount vacuum hole. Gently push the angle bit connector with the finger and use an extension bar to push it whole into the mount top.

Then tighten the lower mount bolt and the transmission bolts (the front bottom one) completely and finally do the top of the mount Nut.
Then put it back together the torque rod on the front top engine mount on both sides 50nm and connect the centre bolt 85nm aswell which goes across the front mount. Tighten to the specific torque.
That’s is Job done.