Volvo 850 ignition switch wanted
 

Volvo 850 ignition switch wanted.

I believe you can still get new ones from volvo for around £45.

Having said that I had to return a new one I bought as it was faulty!

I was going to suggest Volvo as well for about the same price as the 850 uses the same switch as my 760. However, there are usually 2 or 3 different switch options on a particular car, not all the options are interchangeable so you need the part number on your switch to make sure you get the right one.

https://i.postimg.cc/d1BhtDw0/IMG-20...-135229053.jpg

That's mine showing the P/No 828120, strangely short for a Volvo part number i know but it's recognised by their system.

Also don't be tempted by ebay pattern switches or secondhand switches - in most cses you'll be doing the job again in a year or two if you go down that route!

Then you'll almost certainly buy a new one anyway! :thumbs_up:

volvo 850 ignition switch
 

The part number of mine is 04 8281 31 and another number on it is 94 47 803. Its an 855 tdi if thats any different to other 850's?

That'll be 828131 then and the diesels have different switches to the petrols for various reasons but not all petrol starter switches (as Volvo call them) are the same either.

The 94 47 803 sounds like a date code to me, 1994, week 47 and not sure on the 803 but could be a batch number or perhaps a tool number - injection mould tool for example.

Indeed the part number cast into a part is rarely the actual volvo part number

These switches go right back to the last 140 models at the end of 1973 and are extremely robust as they switch the high current loads of everything .

The 850 gave some trouble but that was with the linkage to it rather than the contacts resulting in the switch not being fully latched in the right place on the contacts . They rarely gave trouble under 100,000 miles though .

Later when relays started taking the loads from about 2000 they had plastic casings of the same design and plug fitting and presumably lighter contacts inside ,but still extremely reliable .


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My car has done 241,000 miles so might be still on the original ignition switch at a guess. Thanks for the replys

I have got a new ignition switch from volvo for £56 and put it on and found out that my alternator was not charging. The switch was already on its way out before it got replaced. Now i can't get in the car as the battery has now gone flat.

Glad to hear you've got it running with the new switch but not so glad you now have a flat battery! At the risk of getting a dafter reply, have you tried using the keys to unlock the doors in the traditional manner?

Also for future reference, you should have had some warning the alternator wasn't charging - lack of charge warning lights, ABS warning light and a couple of others when the ignition switch is turned to position 2 (without starting) or perhaps those lights staying on after starting.

If for some reason the key doesn't work to unlock the car, if you jack the front up you should be able to find the starter motor and connect the +ve jump lead to the terminal fed by the heavy red cable from the battery then connect to the +ve terminal of a slave battery/jump start vehicle.

Connect the -ve lead to the -ve on the slave/jumper then connect the other end to the chassis. Give it a few minutes to get some charge in the battery if using a car to supply the slave then operate the remote fob button.

This should get the car unlocked, make sure you open a door and pop the bonnet so you're not locked out again then remove the jump leads in the reverse order.

DO NOT ATTEMPT to start the car with the leads connected like this, the connection on the starter will be marginal at best for that kind of current and the jerk of the engine turning over may cause the lead to short to earth, resulting in potentially 2 exploding batteries and if you're using a car to jump it to unlock it, possibly the alternator on that too.

Fit the jump leads onto the battery terminals where they can get a better grip and the battery won't move when the engine is turned over but remember that an alternator won't charge a flat battery! :nah:

Ideally now remove the battery and charge it off the vehicle and when you come to refit it, we can help you diagnose why it wasn't charging. :thumbs_up:

The door lock on the drivers side just turns both ways and not engaging. The passenger one has never worked and jammed solid and the boot one came out when i tried turning it. The fob worked intermittently and i used to put batteries in quite frequently. I have used the key for the past few months. If there is a way of getting to the battery to charge it up i might be able to try with new batteries in the fob probably? If i take an indicator out could i get to the bonnet catch to release it do you know? Thanks.