Front Wheel Bearing Advice Required
 

As per the title chaps, after extensive (And wishful) checking of brakes and other areas for grinding sounds on my 2001 V70 2.4 (140NA) I'm going to have to admit defeat, it looks like I'm in for a front wheel bearing this weekend :(

My plan is to use a combination of these 'how to' videos....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27a5YvRtVms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDi_NRkxnzM

And I'm about to pull the trigger and order this part...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Volv...sAAOSwxzdZ7hUV

And advice or tips for the job would be gratefully received, as would and insight into the methods used in the videos and/or the quality/suitability of the linked part selected.

Thanks in advance gents :)

Please, don't order just any brand.
FAG bearing is the OE and is the one that lasts.

The Volvo workshop way and also my way to do it is:
Remove wheel, undo tie rod, undo driveshaft bolt, remove brake calipper and disk, put penetrating oil between the hub and spindle, separate ball joint from the control arm by pulling the control arm down with a ratchet strap attached to the other side control arm (both sides close to ball joint), separate the driveshaft, undo the hub bolts a few turns, knock the bolts from the back and see if hub starts coming out, just keep undoing the bolts and knocking the hub out and it should come.

Fairly simple job, no special tools.

I'd also test it just before removing the 4 securing bolts. Saying this because I replaced a good working bearing in the past https://youtu.be/zDdqTS0E8DY

While there, a used wheel hub in good condition from the breakers may be easier to replace - the original bearings are usually quite long lasting on these S60/V70

Thanks

If you don't mind me asking how did you come to replace a perfectly good wheel bearing?

I think it's a rather common mistake.. My tire was making noise just like a worn bearing. Not knowing how to test the bearing, I replaced it, and the noise was still there. Only then I tested the removed bearing by hand and it was perfectly smooth. Went to replace the tire and the noise went away. Tires make strange noises sometimes, especially when old or with wear to them.

One small thing, if hammering to remove a bearing, we cannot reuse it because the plate where the wheel is secured on will be slightly bent, and the wheel lugs will loosen up while driving. I warmly recommend using a strong 3 arm puller anyway, hammering out an original bearing is quite a hard job.

Thanks again

Is it good practice to use locktite when fitting the new bearing/hub bolts?

Also, what are the torque settings for those bolts?

TIA

According to Haynes Hub carrier to steering knuckle 1] 20nm/15lb/ft 2] 45nm/33lb/ft and finally angle tighten further 60 degrees.Driveshaft bolt 35nm/26lb/ft and then angle tighten 90 degrees.When mine was replaced[a p1 car]No ball joints were undone the two nuts/bolts that hold thetop of the knuckle to the strut were removed and the knuckle/hub levered out and down giving access to the four bolts.

Thanks, that's great and the four hub bolts? Also, should locktite/threadlock be used on those?

The hub carrier to steering knuckle are the 4 hub bolts and then the driveshaft bolt is obviously the one that screws into the end of the driveshaft.The bearing I bought came with a new driveshaft bolt[some kits I believe also have the 4 hub bolts too]so this was used as it came-and I don't recall it having any threadlock pre-applied but the 4 hub bolts I re-used and didn't apply any threadlock,the choice is yours of course and if you feel happier using threadlock I see no harm in doing so,although I've had no problems with mine since it was done a couple of years ago.

You may also want to start to undo the bolts while the hub is still on the car, if I remember well. Some may require a spanner (coupled for leverage)