Add Bluetooth
 

Found this kit from Sweden to add BLUETOOTH to the AUX, looks good n easy to fit. Company alos do nice LED kits for reversing lights, interiour etc. Heading over later this month so think I'll place an order.

https://vparts.se/se/v70/volvo-v70-2...0-s40-v50.html

Google translate says:
Instead of cord between your phone and the AUX jack in the center console, you can connect your phone with Vovlons original stereo much easier with this Bluetooth adapter. The adapter fits directly into the original cable and power is taken from the cigarette socket. The bluetooth device is called "Sky International" when you are going to park with your phone.

Does it add fUll BT telephone functionality to the stereo?
"park with your phone" could refer to pairing?

Any Swedes on here who can translate properly?

I guess it doesn't.
Doesn't add phone functionality, that is.

If you look closer at wires, there's only power in and audio out.
For even basic phone functionality it would need a microphone also.
Since this unit is designed to be hidden, it should have a connector/wires for external microphone.
I can't see any.

So I have to assume its music only.

Interesting and handy, but I bet I could get one with hands free function off eBogus for a £5..

Edit:
Also, if powered from cigarette socket, you are looking at alternator noise on the speakers- high pitched whine, changes with engines rpm.
When I was fitting a bluettoth adapter (with hands free) tapped into iPod connector, I had to build a low-pass filter on the power supply side (correct coil+ capacitor, values taken from low pass filter equation)and even then I hat to put an "earth loop separator" on audio line. Whine is still there, but maybe 100x smaller.

Some folk on here have recommended this device which (apparently) supports hands free too:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-AUX...19.m1438.l2649

Here's one that I used
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluetooth3-...8AAOSwfphaUzqD

However, I did not fit it as per eBay photos. Mainly due to fact that P2 did NOT have aux in on the radios. But I do have iPod adapter, and that uses plain analogue audio, so I was able to tap in.

This is almost the same as link in previous post, with the only technical difference that I spotted: mine has 3 control buttons.

Both have microphone built in. In my case, I wanted to hide it inside armrest, so I needed to transplant the microphone somewhere else. I run screened audio cable from armrest to rearview mirror, and that's where microphone is. Of course I had to open round bluetooth thibgy and unsolder original microphone, replacing it with cable soldered in in the same place.

For P3 that has aux port in the armrest- I assume same will apply.

Both units seem to have own batteries- and that gave me right headache during daily use.
Because even if the unit will wake up on cars start, it won't shut down on cars stop.
Effect: I drove to where I needed to get, left and locked car, and my phone was still connected to (still live) Bluetooth dongle, for as long as I was in range and dongle had some juice in its battery.

Turning phones Bluetooth on and off each time when car is used is somewhat tiring.
I settled to use habdsfree only on longer (2hrs+) journeys.

Eventually I've found dongle without battery, so it would start/stop together with car, but by now I can't be bothered to do the swap.

My dashcam transmits audio via FM, and my car's radio picks this up nicely with very little noise interference (less so than I've experienced when connecting a BlueTooth receiver to the AUX socket).

The dashcam has a built-in microphone and also pairs with my phone via BlueTooth, and displays the phone's contacts list on its touchscreen.

For what it's worth, I've been wrestling with the installation of something similar:

https://isimple.com/catalog/professi...ts/musicstream

...and I've been having a devil of a time. I installed it in behind the centre console just like the video suggests and unfortunately ThomasG is spot on: you get alternator whine that is just loud enough to drive you nuts if you are playing something soft like Shine on You Crazy Diamonds which I especially enjoy while driving.

So, I pulled the radio out and tried installing it in behind using the DC power feeding the radio. The good news is that it totally eliminated the alternator whine. The bad news is that the sound was coming through very distorted on the RHS audio. It was very odd, the lower sounds (heavy base) would be fine but vocals and higher pitched sounds just would not come through. Left side was fine. I re-installed it making sure my soldering was solid...no dice. My guess is that the audio control panel under the seat does something to the audio feed before sending it to the radio. This is supported by the fact that while there are two feeds in the centre console (one for aux and one for USB) there is only a single feed that comes into the radio (AUX/USB).

My next step is to try to run a 12V from the back of the radio all the way under the centre console to the rear to see if I can re-install the Bluetooth gizmo there successfully. I will let you guys know if this works. For the audiophiles out there do you know if I would also need to run a second ground cable or is it only the 12V feed that causes the alternator whine?

It’s correct that it’s only sound but ok for me as Mobile already fine via Bluetooth. Re noise issues, noted and will ask them and let u know (I’m Swedish so easy for me). Did email them re possible CANBUS issues for the LED kits they do and all are compatible according to them. Like the fact that the BT kits has correct plugs etc for the car bar the 2 wires I need to hook up to ie easy install and hate current wires out of the armrest box. Will report back tomorrow.

Have now emailed them re possible noise and will report back tomorrow.

I would think that for audio use both +12 and GND will be filtered for noises.
What I would do, myself at my own risk (implying that if you decide to follow- its your own risk)..
Actually, all that there is at risk is 1 fuse, 1 resistor, 1 old speaker..

So, I'd get 1 old speaker, if possible high tone/whistle, if possible greater than 10W.
1 resistor of min 15, max 47ohm, minimum 10W.
Bit of insulated wire.
And solder them in series:
---------------------speaker------resistor---------
Then connect one went to +12V feeding radio, start engine, turn radio off.
Other end of this set to radios ground. And listen.
Play with gas pedal. And listen.
Then move it to GND on arrest lighter socket. Play with gas and listen.
There's 3 possible outcomes:
You may blow up speaker
You may blow radio fuse (unlikely, 15ohm resistor will draw below 1amp)
You'll know which earth is clean.

If in doubt or not willing to do the test- run separate earth.
Again, I would use concentric cable, separate for 12V and separate for "clean" earth, with centre cores used to carry actual 12V and GND, and sheath connected to bodywork GND. This should get rid of electromagnetic noise.