P0017 and Cam Sensor Questions
 

Question on a P0017 code. Wasn't getting this until I started fiddling with the camshaft sensor cover and seal.

I was getting some drips around the back of the camshaft position sensor/cover and pulled the cover. To inspect the seal I removed the bolt holding the cylinder on the end of the camshaft used by the sensor. Definitely have a slow drip but wasn't tackling the replacement now. When I was re-installing the cylinder on the end of the camshaft and tightening down the bolt the cam did rotate a smidge backwards. If the timing belt was on would everything had stayed in time or would this have been the cause.

Also I did wipe a bit of oil off the tip of the sensor inside the cover. I can't say I was very gentle trying to move around the cover and wires either. Not a lot of space unless you remove the IC pipe.

Not sure if it's cam position, the sensor, or both.

On cold starts it acts up, revs high. Warm starts no issue. I can seem to clear the codes with vida and they don't come back until a longer driving cycle.

If it is the cam position can I rotate it "back" counter clockwise the same smidge, maybe with some sort of slotted tool? Not sure what I would use it's a precarious shape with the cylinder there.

If it is the sensor anyone have a cross reference / alternative part? the Volvo part # 9202117 stamped on mine is pretty expensive.

Vida code has ECM-62 faulty signal.

/Cheers
TK

http://i.imgur.com/q3KwhBtl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/AABjbSYl.png

I seem to remember that the cylinder fits into place and won't move...it's got a slot or something on it. If it moved, is it possible that it was not seated in the slot. I may not be right, TK as it's been a while since I've been in there. There is no way that would have messed with your timing. Quite sure of that.

Welcome to the club - I'm getting ECM-61 "Camshaft reset valve faulty signal" and can't get rid of it...well, I can using ECL reset but it comes back about a week later. I've changed the solenoid, the coil harness and new VVT was put in two years ago. Heck, I've even resorted to switching to synthetic in the hope that detergent action may clear out the oil passages. Not sure what else to do.

Thanks. I had thought I put it back in with the grooves.

When I did my vvt hub last summer and taking off the belt/hub. I remember marking the spots to put the hub and when reinstalling trying to put it in the same position the hub had to be rotated back a little bit (this was all with the cams locked).

Would rotating the cam back without anything locked would have made the vvt hub "float" and undo that preload?

Ordered an ebay sensor to replace in case I botched the sensor.

I see what you mean but as far as I'm concerned, if that were a risk, would the VIDA instructions not highlight this and/or propose a method of sensor replacement that would avoid this possibility? Now you have got me curious. I'm going to boot up my "vida computer" to see what they say.

I didn't see any mention of needing it to be locked in Haynes. Let me know if you do check vida.

I can at least confirm the problem. Tightening the bolt only moved the cam. With the crank in position and the timing marks on the gears the cams looked like this. So it's only the exhaust cam that's bonked slightly.

I'm told I could "hold" the vvt hub and try to pry the exhaust cam a little back counter clockwise.

I've also been told I could do it proper and loosen the belt, lock the cams (making the exhaust flat to match the intake, crack the vvt hub,bolt loose, reposition it "back" and reinstall.

Does the VVT hub have a preload / sprung type of action that after removing the belt it will rotate "back" a little and that would be the install spot to match up on?

http://i.imgur.com/KiRYPC5l.jpg