V70-D5 won't start after replacing lifters/rockers
 

Hi all,after over 2 years of listening to the tug boat chug i finally replaced the lifters and rockers-[INA] ones,also did the seals on the oil pump-[good tutorial by sirobb on this],fitted everything back today,came to start it and it just turned over with no hint of a fire up at all,cracked off the fuel pipe union to 1 of the injectors and fuel gushed out so no probs with fuel or pressure,i let the new lifters soak overnight in oil before i put them in,and i know the timing is right as i have used the 2 recommended locking pins,and have used new copper washers and injector clamp plates,I have cranked the engine till i flattened the battery.so.any pointers in the right direction would be most appreciated,cheers

Just an update to what the problem was,i re-checked all the timing side of things which meant removing a fair bit of stuff,after satisfying myself that was all ok i decided to ask-you tube on priming the fuel injection pump and a great pointer by j33ffw-sounds like a good yorkshire lad put me straight in he had trouble in starting the car after he de-coked the plastic inlet manifold and swirl flaps etc,anyway he said first pull off the fuel supply pipe to the pump and turn the ignition for 30 secs to purge the fuel to start spurting out of this pipe-i had to do this several times before a good gush came,then re-connect and switch ignition on for approx 30 secs to pressurise the system-3 times,then crank engine over a few times,then crack off each injector pipe union as someone is cranking the motor,maybe a couple of times,and it should fire.In my case i did many times because i didn't prime the supply pipe initially,but after following this advice my engine started and is now fine,by the way i found 5 lifters were kerput-2 on inlet and 3 exhaust,[really sloppy with no resistance] all the rockers were fine,engine sounds like a guden again.

Keep an eye out for leaks from the fuel pipes, they are regarded as one use only. Due to the high pressure common rail systems run at. You wouldn’t want a high pressure leak and if you have been cracking them off willy nilly then you never know!

Thanks for the advice,i did know they were recommended to be replaced,but read quite a few forum members that got away with it,so i thought i would try myself,i will keep a close eye on them over next few days.it would be interesting to know though how Volvo mechanics purge any air from newly fitted pipes without cracking the union nuts off.

you don't need to, it bleeds itself after about 8 seconds of cranking , I feel you have a weak tank pump ! It should provide 5 bar pressure and lots of flow .

Thanks Clan,i was cranking it for ages,took 2 full batteries worth,is the pressure something i could check with vida

My in tank pump unknowingly died so I needed to manually bleed the fuel system after a filter change.

I removed the return rubber hose where it meets the metal pipe at the front of the engine and used a vacuum tester on the rubber hose to draw the fuel through.

It took a while to get the bubble free stream but it happened eventually and the hose was reattached using much easier to use spring clamps.

All has been well since.

alas no , you have to revert to conventional methods ...