jacking point failure
 

to say i'm concerned with what i've just found is an understatement. went to jack my car up earlier to inspect the front discs and pads and the jacking point collapsed. upon further inspection of the foot well i discover a loose metal plate running down the sill, what is this for?!!!
i'm increasing worried about the rust on this car, some parts are what you'd expect e.g. below tailgate behind bumper but this discovery has got me really worried...!
Any advice as to how i go about rectifying it will be gratefully received, see pics
http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/y...psutdgfprd.jpg
http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/y...pswd7jabu3.jpg
http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/y...pspmssxrbk.jpg
http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/y...psqnhjoh4n.jpg
http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/y...psunbvqnyg.jpg

The loose plate is Volvo's way of making a flat level floor, imagine the shape
The floor would be if not there.
They left it loose because the rear wiring harness runs through.

Jacking point failure
 

Firstly I must apologise as I posted this in the wrong section! It's meant to be in the 200 series section (my car is 1989 240)...
Thanks fro info on the plate. is the repair of the jacking point difficult to do? I'd have to get a welder to do it as that's not my bag!

As Geoff says, that plate hides lots of wires BUT its the Volvo way of directing warm air to the feet of rear-seat passengers. Also of course it dries out the area condensation will settle if you either have a leak or like the car hot if frosty outside.
However, that hole which you seem to have removed the plug from is one of several deliberate ones along the floor sides - what they call tooling holes I believe. The proper jacking strengthenings are the smaller discs on the top-hat section outrigger a few inches along from your first photo. A genuine jack will engage on those so the cars side can be lifted safely without it falling off the jack. Personally I don't use them (except when miles from home with a puncture) - I use a trolley jack on the rear axle or front lower spring mountings plus an axle stand to be doubly sure as I don't want to risk getting under a car without.
OK re wrong section you wanted for your query, but it is applicable to the 164 model too, as that's what I run for fun.

P

Very imformative and thank you too! I feel a bit silly now thinking I'd just punched through a jacking point but I just looked for a flat area a short distance behind the door hinge which is where I thought the point was! I see now the other point which suits the standard jack!
Due to my stupid error I managed to distort the metal around the plug but I can sort that easy enough!
Also,found this rot underneath, again hope not to difficult to put right and not an mot failure....!
http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps4cmyd7et.jpg

like Paul wrote this are the tool holes. If have one of the tools, it looks strange. And this holes are to run out the car after the cathodic bath potection system too. Never use the flat spot in post 5. go under the frame rails in the front , ore under the jacking points (the are prone to rust out) and under the differential in the rear if you own a 140-164-240-740 and 940..
take care about the rust at post 5, it will be no prob at the mot in this state. Even remove the plastic plugs at the inner sill and clean the sill from dust and debris with a hoover.
good luck Kay

I second that, Kay: that rusting could be a slight concern - depends on your MoT tester. On my 740 day-car a narrow strip under a front footwell was considered a fail until welded up, and a friend had her tester thrust a screwdriver up through rust like your floor on her MX5 and fail it accordingly. It all seems to depend on the aggressiveness of the man on the day - if its cold, wet and he isn't happy he could obviously be affected by that, despite the rules..... Mind you, I'd look at getting it repaired or replaced before too long, even with a current ticket.

P

Thanks guys, again great info. Yes I'll see about getting this sorted and may well get them to look at other rust spots, namely rear panel behind rear bumper!

The rust you have there is on the outrigger. A typical rust area, but your car is better than most. It's not a highly complex repair, but make absolutely sure that all rust is cut out first. Welding metal over the top of rust makes it worse.

Regards, John