ceramic fuses
 

hello guys does anybody know a source in uk for ceramic fuses with copper in them and not aluminium cant seem to find any at at all Thanks Louise

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ceramic-C...-/332589247890

Only looked at one supplier- should be others on this site:~ Bob

Good god don't buy them of eBay..far to expensive

These guys
www.autospark.eu

Just got 100 of each 8 .16.25amp

For euro 8.50 a box

Regards
Declan

Super fast delivery too

yes thanks guys we just found the guy in greece seems pretty fair on the price we do appreciate you getting back to us Thanks Louise

Good website I ordered and had them in two days and I'm in northern ireland

I recall it being said one needs ceramic body with a copper (or at some amp-ages brass) fuse link. If the fuse link is aluminum then it will interact with the copper/brass fuse box contacts and generate heat. &c. &c.

autospark looks good. Does anyone know, are the fuse links copper, brass or other metal?

EDIT: Oh and does anyone have information to help a choice between Hella vs Flosser brand from autospark please?

The eBay seller in fairness actually says the fuse links are copper, and is taking the trouble to supply modest quantities. I hope that I never need 100 of any size of car fuse.

An alternative approach is to convert to blade fuses or even circuit breakers. At a price and a fair amount of work I should think.

.

Flossers are a genuine ceramic body with 100% copper fuse..no plated nonsense..

No sure about the Hella one

I don't need 100 of each either but at that price rude not too

I've 4. 240's and have changed all in each car

Have in the past had heat build up and melting of the plastic ones..no such troubles now

Regards
Declan

For what it's worth...

my 1991 estate has twice now (in just over 3 years of ownership) failed on me due to poor contact on fuse 6 - recently in the outside lane of a (thankfully not busy) motorway

I now have two spare fuse racks to play with. Fuse 6 especially must get quite hot as the lower brass tang is loose in the nylon rack, more so than other single fuses (where some fuses are electrically and structurally batched together in 2s or 3s, the tangs are much more secure - other single tangs are also more secure than fuse 6)

I have cleaned and vaselined the contacts and for now I will continue to do that, but...

I am looking at fitting tags to the fuse tabs. The tags will have short lengths of wire attached to them which run to an MCB housed in an in-line electrically isolated plastic holder. A debate I am having at the moment is what amperage to have the MCB - I can't find an 8A MCB, I can find 7.5 and 10 amps

Not saying that like-metals on ceramic (never plastic!) fuses won't help, just thinking of another solution...

Nicholas. Substituting "inline" blade fuses or yes MCB for both the two troublesome fuses must still be the way to go.

Enjoy the project. :)

Nicholas. See please https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=116489 This old but comprehensive thread re fuse 4 as well as fuse 6, fuel pump relay &c. &. will help you a lot. Bypassing fuses 4 and 6 with inline blade fuses is old hat and effective. Bypassing with MCB is just plugging MCB in to the inline blade fuse holders instead of plugging in blade fuses. Even I can manage that. :)

You and I discussed this when I installed two inline blade fuseholders and you deep cleaned the old style fuse board. Welcome to my preferred option now. Am I still, risk averse? ;)



.