360 GLE - Help & Info needed
 

Apologies in advance for long post.

My wife has just inherited a 1998 F plate 360 GLE - B200K engine - carburettor not injection. It has done 59000 miles and was previously owned by her Uncle. It has been standing for 9 months but after a bit of TLC was coaxed from where it was stored and driven back to our house.

Checking the car out this weekend I've found a couple of things which I can't find answers to in the manual - I'd be grateful for any help and advice.

1)The tailgate struts are shot as my head found out when the tailgate fell on me. I know it is possible to get replacements from other than Volvo, but the o/s rear one has what I can only describe as a large capacitor on it, attached to a spade connection. What is this for? Does it mean that I have to have the Volvo replacement strut for this side or can you take it off and put on the new replacement strut?

2) There is no power to any of the dashboard switches so for example putting on the heated rear window the switch does not light up. I've checked fuse five in the fusebox and this appears to be Ok. Are there any other fuses I should look for or any ideas what could be causing this?

3) The battery tray has been holding water and consequently has rusted a bit. It is still sound but what do people recommend to treat it with? It is a few years since I've done any rust prevention type work and am out of touch with the latest treatments. I was thinking of coats of Hamerite? What would others do please?

4) Lastly at what point do people say that it is not worth spendig money on a car and let it go to the great scrapyard in the sky? The interior of this car is immaculate but the body has had it's share of knocks and scratches. The bonnet has what will be a perforated hole in it on the leading edge soon I'm sure, and the n/s rear door is well on the way.
My original thought were that it would be a good basis to keep in good condition, but given the £ value of the car even in perfect condition am I wasting my time ( and money) on this model?

Again apologies for the long post - Thanks in advance for any replies. I am a VOC member as my other car is a 740 estate and I'm looking forward to the meet in a couple of weeks time.

Thanks

Nigel

RE: 360 GLE - Help & Info needed
 

Nigel,

1. Tailgate struts - I would get these from a breakers yard. The one you refer to will (should) come with the same electrics attached. My 360 GLE is the saloon model so I can only guess that the electrics on the strut are to do with either the heated rear window or the rear wiper motor - only a guess.

2. Dashboard switches - quite often there is a single (or two) earth points for these switches and dashboard lights. This is usually about the heater asembly. If the earth point is corroded - or the cable is not connected or broken - there will be no earth and hence no lights for the switches.

3. Battery tray - I would steel brush the tray as clean as possible and provided that what was left was solid enough to keep the battery locked in place I would be inclined to work as you suggest - Hammerite smoothe. If you want to make it match the rest of the paint cover it over with spray colour after the Hammerite.

4. Cost / value cut-off - this is one for you alone. I have some similar problems with mine in that the two rear doors have holes below the windows and the glass in the drivers door is quite scratched (up and down travel probably with trapped material). The seam below the boot striking plate is rusting away and needs work. Wheel arch work should also be done. This is my 'spare' car and has had a new clutch and a lot of exhaust work done since I bought it. I will keep running it until I decide that the MOT bill is too much (like I could get a good 'banger' for les than the MOT repairs) and then scrap the car. Meanwhile, most of what I require could be got at a breakers.

At the end of the day it is just down to you and what you want from the car. Have a happy fix-up!!

RE: 360 GLE - Help & Info needed
 

agree with everything migrator has said, apart from the connections on the strut. This is for the light in the boot. If you don't have a light in the boot then it is redundant anyway and so won't matter, so check carefully. AFAIK, the only replacement with the correct switching is from Volvo.

RE: 360 GLE - Help & Info needed
 

The switch (for boot light) on the tailgate strut is detachable.
Replacements from German & Swedish are about £14 each but I found Maestro struts also fit and a micro switch added for the boot light.
I think the deciding factor on whether to keep the car is underbody corrosion.The mechanics should have another 60k at least in them.
Check the under boot crossmember at the ends near shocks. Scrape off underseal .Severe rust on here can be expensive.Also check near jacking points for hidden rust under loose underseal.
If not ,rustproof liberally all box sections and sills.

Regards, Steve

RE: 360 GLE - Help & Info needed
 

My first bit of advice would be to take it for an MOT. That will give you a fair idea of what condition the car is in. It can be hard to get the full picture without a ramp.

Check for rust under the sills, esp near the rear spring hangers.
An idea would be to lift the carpet next to the front door hinges and check the sills from the INSIDE. The reason I say this is because mine had rusted from the inside and eventually gave way when I jacked it up.

Gearbox mounts, mine fell off even though the car only had 68k.
Wheels bearings, esp rear, they are expensive to get done.
Suspension arm bushes, any play?

The chances are that the engine is OK, an engine flush followed by good quality oil should help it + sparks, filters etc

Brake parts are fairly cheap, but take the wheels( and drums at back) off and check them out.

Check the subframe under the engine. Is is rusting away unseen?

RE: dashboard lights, are you sure the things actually don't work? From experience I can say Volvo electrics can be pretty dire and half the time the lights don't work as they should.
If you can get it through an MOT without spending too much, go for it. These cars are very reliable, strong and fun!. Rear wheel drive and a 2litre!! He-he

My F-ref inj gets 28mpg aroud the doors, 38 on motorway.
Cheap to insure too.
I think it had a similar life to yours, it seems to have sat for a long time, corroding away underneath.

All the best and let us know how you get on,

RE: 360 GLE - Help & Info needed
 

Thanks for all the advice. I'll inspect the car thoroughly now with the pointers I've had to look at. I don't know why I didn't realise it was the boot light switch that I was looking at on the tailgate strut! Doh!
Individual Dashboard switches are definitely not illuminating - I'll start chasing down the earth when I feel brave enought to take the dashboard to pieces - and a visit to the local scrap yard is about due I feel to see if I can source some of the bits. If I can't get them locally I might be lucky at the VOC show.

Thanks again

Nigel

RE: 360 GLE - Help & Info needed
 

Firstly I want to say I am a 360 fan. They are great cars, comfy and we get 30 to 38 mpg. I have three 360 GLE cars all carb and all F reg (Me, wife and daughter). Having a "fleet" makes it easy for spares etc.

I thought this might be of help:
Volvo 360 dash board removal:

1. Remove the horn pad on the steering wheel. This is held by four push in pillars one in each corner. The horn leads are exposed and are on blade connectors.
2. Remove the steering wheel. Undo the centre nut using a socket set. Pull off, the leads to the horn come too, the contact to them is by two slip rings, the brushes of this stay on the column.
3. Undo two push clips that hold the nacelle round the choke and stalk switches that go into the bottom of the dash nacelle. Two others further down can stay in place to hold the switch nacelle.
4. Undo two posidrive screws on each bottom side of the dash nacelle
5. Undo two posidrive screws under the top of the dash nacelle. A plate comes off with these screws.
6. Put the stalk switches in the down position.
7. Ease the dash nacelle forward and get your hand in behind. Unclip the two edge connectors that feed the loom to the dash board. Undo the speed cable by turning the bayonet fixing anti clockwise (looking from the front of the car towards the rear).
8. The dash nacelle will now come into the car with the leads to the headlight switch, fog light and dash dimmers switches still remaining connected.
9. If wanted the dash can be removed from the nacelle and taken from the car.

JRM 27/01/01