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-   -   2x Subframe Bolts - are the tops accessible? (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=294412)

pierremcalpine May 3rd, 2019 17:45

2x Subframe Bolts - are the tops accessible?
 
Hi,
So I did a really dumb thing yesterday. I was trying to chase down a front end creak that only happens when it is 28degC or hotter (just drove the car up from Florida so more relevant of an issue down there than up here in Toronto right now).

I figured I would give the two long subframe bolts and extra tightening to see if they might be causing the creak. Tightened one...check. Tightened the other, crack. Busted. F me.

It's impossible to drill the threaded part out without removing the whole engine cradle/subframe. F me again. Considering just getting someone to weld the subframe to the frame as the car has got over 200k miles on it so if someone has to grind a weld off to remove the engine cradle before the car dies than it's not the end of the world.

So my question is this - is the top of that bolt visible/accessible anywhere so that I could drill it out or turn it from above? I've taken a look from the top but can't see much what with the fuse box, engine mount, air filter, etc in the way. I'm considering pulling all that stuff off to take a look but wondering if I'm wasting my time...

clarkey1984 May 3rd, 2019 19:40

If it were me, and especially as it's done 200k or over I'd just weld it, it's a lot less of a headache.

Clan May 4th, 2019 11:44

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine (Post 2517817)
Hi,
So I did a really dumb thing yesterday. I was trying to chase down a front end creak that only happens when it is 28degC or hotter (just drove the car up from Florida so more relevant of an issue down there than up here in Toronto right now).

I figured I would give the two long subframe bolts and extra tightening to see if they might be causing the creak. Tightened one...check. Tightened the other, crack. Busted. F me.

It's impossible to drill the threaded part out without removing the whole engine cradle/subframe. F me again. Considering just getting someone to weld the subframe to the frame as the car has got over 200k miles on it so if someone has to grind a weld off to remove the engine cradle before the car dies than it's not the end of the world.

So my question is this - is the top of that bolt visible/accessible anywhere so that I could drill it out or turn it from above? I've taken a look from the top but can't see much what with the fuse box, engine mount, air filter, etc in the way. I'm considering pulling all that stuff off to take a look but wondering if I'm wasting my time...

this kind of thing? One i repaired 15 years ago ..

pierremcalpine May 4th, 2019 16:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan (Post 2517943)
this kind of thing? One i repaired 15 years ago ..

Yep, that’s the one. Do you remember how difficult it was to get it sorted once the hole was drilled?

Clan May 4th, 2019 19:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine (Post 2517995)
Yep, that’s the one. Do you remember how difficult it was to get it sorted once the hole was drilled?

I drilled as much of the captive nut away and broke it free with a chisel , put a normal nut in there and a grommet in the hole ...

pierremcalpine May 6th, 2019 18:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan (Post 2518053)
I drilled as much of the captive nut away and broke it free with a chisel , put a normal nut in there and a grommet in the hole ...

Thank you, Clan. That's a good option that also sounds do-able.

pierremcalpine Jun 7th, 2019 15:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan (Post 2518053)
I drilled as much of the captive nut away and broke it free with a chisel , put a normal nut in there and a grommet in the hole ...

Thank you again, clan. I cut a rectangle opening out by cutting three of four sides and bent the piece of metal downwards to salvage it later. I used my dremel to cut away at the nut enclosure until I could pull the nut and broken bolt out. I even managed to save the nut by Heater the crap out of it and the broken bolt until I was able to work it free. Didn’t even have to take away bar link off - I just took strut off and sat it on its side over top of the brake caliper.


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