|
Hi Army, I have no clue about the clips. Did they try to balance the propshaft?
Maybe something connected to a rallye speedo? Your 544 seems healthy good luck, Kay |
Quote:
It is a pain in the backside to try and do this - it is possible to spend more time adjusting the clip positions and test driving the results than it would be to fix the problem properly. This propshaft design is a bit of a strange one. The first universal joint (UJ) next to the gearbox isn´t going to move too much because of the centre propshaft bearing holding it straight. This does induce Brinelling - a notchy feel to the joint. As the centre propshaft bearing wears the notchiness of the first UJ will probably feel like vibration - I guess that´s why whoever added some weight to the propshaft to try and make it behave differently... ...only problem is they´ve added weight / changed the dynamics of the system at a part that doesn´t seem to have anything wrong with it! ######### I´m just going to replace the three universal joints and the centre bearing and perhaps check the static balance of the shaft if I can rig up some bearings to support the ends (this probably won´t happen as I´m pushed for time with this project - so I´m more likely going to be refitting it and hoping for the best) |
The jubilee clips are from DIY balancing. If it has worked, they are effective and you might as well leave them on. You might have some rectangular plates welded to the tubes and this is the original method. A good prop shaft shop can balance the complete shaft dynamically. They can swap in new U/J's at the same time. Not too expensive. I know you want to do as much as possible yourself but as you say, doing trial and error balancing with clips is no fun.
|
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
As for the carb I´ve found a number on it https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519665638 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519665638 Does anyone know about the Weber 36 DCD? (Seems to be popular-ish on VW Golfs) |
Far too cold today for real work...
1 Attachment(s)
...luckily something arrived in the post that needed some rust removal and a lick of high temp paint
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519839524 I really wanted to get the original flywheel skimmed but it turned out to be cheaper to buy a pre-skimmed example from a large Dutch supplier |
Interesting. Never known one to be painted......
|
Quote:
In fact I hate the stuff Having declared war on rust and the causes of rust (!) I carefully remove the rust but am painfully aware of not putting on too too much paint (i.e. adding weight) to this balanced part - a couple of thin sprayed coats is all it needs to help keep it gucci for a few years (after that the winner of the war on rust will prevail) |
Army;
I am following this thread with interest... I hate rust too, but science is science...so we have to admit, that when we harvest iron from the earth, part of refining it, and into turning it into that wonderful Swedish steel we know and love, is taking the oxygen out of it...and forever thereafter, oxygen will be looking to recombine with it...it's just mother nature being herself. A good friend of mine and physics teacher (also appreciator of vintage Volvos) said that if he had anything to do about it, he would allow oxygen to combine with iron only once...nice thought...! BTW, I don't have a problem with you painting your Flywheel...just be certain that there is NO PAINT on the interface surface between it and the Crankshaft...paint in compression in-between precision critical surfaces like that is a no-no...but you knew that! Cheers |
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
I´m happy to report that I´ve been a good boy! I even masked up the contact surface for the clutch plate before spraying => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1519922459 The last thing I want is some sort of plasticy goo messing things up for the first few miles ####### I appreciate your interest in the thread - the big plan is to try and get the car back together again by the end of March - so forum based interest is greatly received as it helps fuel things along |
Army;
...ahem...not to be a stickler...but I must...I would like to point out that what you've masked there is the friction surface (good!)...but I would also recommend masking the (6, plus associated) contact surfaces where Clutch Cover will be bolted to Flywheel...the point is not to have a layer of paint which might cold-flow and change /(reduce under heat and pressure) thickness and thereby promote critical fasteners to loosen causing a disaster...or worse... Cheers |
Quote:
If I´m wrong about that I´ll break out some sand paper. |
Army;
It might very well be, but with a thin coat of paint which is quite stable by the time you get it...opposed to you spraying on a possibly fairly thin coat when you do it, and assembling it when "dry" but yet not absolutely stable. I don't mean to make a big deal about it, just pointing out areas to be aware of and take care with. Cheers |
Just a personal opinion but painting a flywheel seems rather pointless, I don't think they were ever painted in the first place and even when a car has stood outside for many years you will find hardly any rust on it due to the grade of steel/iron it is made from. Plus you don't even see it when assembled! It will be one of the last parts still sitting there when the rest of the car has dissolved.
|
Quote:
I don´t put rusty parts (back) on cars |
They did regrind the surface of the friction plate and not the surface where the pressure plate is mounted at the same way????
measure carefully, the datas you will find in the green book Army Good luck, Kay |
Quote:
The clutch felt a little jerky when I was reversing the car - I haven´t driven it for more than 4 meters so far. Because I´m repairing the rust on the front end of the car I removed the engine to get better access and as it was out of the car it was a simple step to remove the gearbox. The existing flywheel contact surface is a bit grooved and could do with a skim The existing clutch friction material is thick But the pressure plate side of the clutch is a bit messed up like the flywheel side. It looks like someone has just slammed in new parts between worn. ##### I contacted a local machine shop for a quote and it turned out to be as much as a replacement flywheel from an online shop. So as is it cold I ordered the online solution! (But then had to de-rust and paint) A new clutch assembly has already been ordered from Sweden - hopefully that´ll be winging its way to Holland soon - the existing parts are not to be trusted. It will be a brand new / as good as new system by the end of this After degreasing and painting the engine block I will most certainly be setting and checking the flywheel in accordance with the workshop manual. |
Question about windscreen rubbers
2 Attachment(s)
It looks like the windscreen rubber has been leaking a bit on the car
I managed to remove the trim really easily (which seemed strange) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520263056 Evidence of water pooling on the dash top is shown by rusty screws on the outer edge https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520263058 I have never been able to pull out a windscreen with just my fingers before! ##### I´m guessing the seal used is not meant for a PV. Is it perhaps possible to get the seals mixed up with Amazon ones / another vehicle? Or are they all made badly ¨these days¨? |
Found another modification...
2 Attachment(s)
...I have variable wiper speed control!
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520263327 I must find the wiring manual for this beast - so if anyone already has one / knows where I can get one that would be a boost #### Also after removing the front seat (with is from an Amazon) I saw that this kind of strange bent tubular thing was welded to the floor pan https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520263327 Is that an original bit? |
Army;
Seat Subframe looks original, but other 544 experts will likely have more details... "Wiper Electronic Control System" is clearly not original...I don't have any info, suggest you Gargle around, but I also suggest you make a drawing of all wiring and connections of the entire Wiper System, from Switch to WECS to Motor Assy, anyway for your records...I should be able to give a good functional description for service/future troubleshooting purposes. Remember 544 and Amazon Wipermotor and Switches do not cross-pollinate or play well together. Cheers |
That tubular mounting is part of the Amazon arrangement. Looks like it's been welded to where the PV sliders go. Your screen rubber looks nice and supple. Just put plenty of gunge on when you refit it.
|
Er OK thanks chaps - bit of a conflict on the seat tube at the moment then?
Other than that the Mitsuba wiper control documentation looks pretty scarce on ye olde interwebe... ...I´ll keep looking - there might even be a schematic on the other side of the box... |
Forgot the camera today...
1 Attachment(s)
...so just one from the clever phone
Doing more than expected but as it is getting warmer I´m getting ready for paint https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520352376 |
Ending up doing way more than I hoped
4 Attachment(s)
Still I guess the only way to fix something is to take it to bits...
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520435575 The wiring loom and the dash has been removed so I can merrily wire brush away the paint in the engine bay and bulkhead. The windscreen has been leaking and the interior floor needs a bit of a going over too. That´s a bit of a bugger. ###### Even so other parts that I was planning to have a go at are coming along nicely Subframe - stripped https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520435575 Other parts that will be getting multi layered coatings have been stripped and treated to Brunox. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520435575 Next layer will be ferpox epoxy primer - then probably Eastwood chassis black. For other parts that will probably get scratched such as tie rods and this heater box get treated to Hammerite satin black - super easy to spray on - super easy to fix at a later date if they do indeed get scratched https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520435575 |
Chassis number position
1 Attachment(s)
I forgot to say - I found a chassis number stamped into the bulkhead
Previously I had been lead to believe that Volvo didn´t start doing this until later 1966 (information found in a spares book) However - my 1961 PV does have it https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520446622 The chassis number plate is as many have said on the RHS of the vehicle (left hand arrow in the picture) - But this can be removed (!) I found the chassis number and the model number stamped into the bulkhead between the hole for the heater ducting and the hole for the wiring loom on the LHS of the vehicle (right hand arrow in the picture) |
Red Letter Day!
2 Attachment(s)
That sodding rear suspension has been removed.
It put up a good fight and had to be done the wrong way I wanted to remove the trailing arms from their front mounting points but struggled to get the bolts loose. This was mainly because the car wasn´t / isn´t up on a lift - working lower down to the ground restricts the length of grolly bars in tight spaces. I removed the Panhard bar and the upper differential mount from the underside of the car - well Panhard rod only comes off at the lower end - was trapped by exhaust at top mount... ...then I removed brake lines and parking brake / hand brake cable from the centre (only to find that too is wrapped around the exhaust!)... ...propshaft was easily removed but needs to come out towards the rear so can potentially get caught up in the rear axle gubbins too. Shocks came off easily and the lower spring mounts weren´t too too difficult to get loose. The upper spring mounts not so easy when rusty! I waited until the axle was lowered before removing them. The (fabric) straps stopping the rear axle from dropping were left until the last minute. U-clamps on the trailing arms were undone - that was hard going - U-clamps removed - strap on one side removed - axle pings down a bit under a tiny amount of spring compression... ...then just do the other side. Phew => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520517264 The trailing arms mounts at the front were ¨easy¨ to remove with more space once the axle and exhaust was out of the way https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520517264 |
Propshaft also in bits
5 Attachment(s)
Easy to do with a hydraulic press - not necessary because these things are especially stiff / hard to shift but because of the controllability
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520524977 Note the dangerous use of sockets! Don´t damage tools when doing this - if your needle moves more than a blip on your hydraulic gauge then you´re doing it wrong - virtually zero force is needed... Shove the UJ cross one way (after removing circlips!) Then back the other way => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520524977 Pick out the seal and wriggle the needle bearings out of the caps https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520524977 Then use a hammer and punch to knock the caps out of the way so you can remove the UJ crosses https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520524977 Next up a good degrease... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520524977 ...and some paint |
Tiny steps...
4 Attachment(s)
...found out how the front seats were modified.
The hoops do indeed look like they came from an Amazon - see Amazon spares book. They seem to have been welded onto the PV lower seat rails. Access to the cross head screws is made via the holes in the tube (not sure if that´s how they are on the Amazon) => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520692936 Nicely modified (in my humble opinion) as they´ve seam welded all along the two joining surfaces on both sides of the hoop - mega strong. #### I´m glad I ripped up the floor mats and removed the old sound insulation - water ingress was starting to take hold. I think I´ve caught it in the nick of time. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520692936 Finally finding evidence of the original body colour too! https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520692936 That and the discovery of the stamped chassis number has removed all concern about inadvertently picking up a ringer of yore... ###### In other news - reason for strangely aligned trim piece between front door and bonnet has been found => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520692936 It was poorly put back together again with a screw instead of a proper clip! |
I'd put the Amazon seats back if I were you. I've just done a 150 mile trip in my 544 today, and my bum hurts much more than in my Amazon!
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Bit of a shame it wasn´t done when the paint job was completed - the up side of course is that it was a lot easier to remove! Quote:
I´m waiting for some cloth from VP Automotive in Sweden so I can re-do these Amazon seats in the style of the original interior code for this car (40-197). I´m hoping the original back seat coverings are going to come good - they are very grotty - but it would be a substantial saving if they don´t need to be replaced... |
1 Attachment(s)
Found a not so good modification. Bit of a nasty gash in the cross bracing under the rear seat to make way for inertia reels.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520880394 As I want to keep the seat belts it looks like I´l have to come up with a nice finish to this modification... ...to be continued |
Army, do you have any sense of where the seat belt mounting points should be? I have a PV444. The prior owner installed 2 point belts, mounted basically immediately under the seat back. They come up around my thighs.
I would love to install a 3 point of 4 point set of belts. Also, enjoying your posts and all the pictures. |
Quote:
...I´ll make a few pictures for you tomorrow showing what has been done to my car. I think the central transmission tunnel fixings and the fixings in the B pillars are more or less ¨standard¨. The lower mount is most certainly in front of the rear seat step - and I think if you wanted a three point set up (inertia or not) you´d be best off fixing from / near that corner as the belt needs to be relatively straight from the lower point to the B pillar fixing. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Have you put any pictures (of this upgrade) on the web? How did you sort out the mounting points? I assume you were able to use the lower parts of the PV mounts too? |
Slow going...
2 Attachment(s)
...this is the slog - oh dear - takes for ever =>
Painting bits... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520954246 (That´s a coat of Fertan epoxy over the top of Brunox rust proofing stuff) ...in between stripping paint off other parts ready for rust treatment https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1520954246 The lower corners / underside of the car has been encased in bitumastic goo which has done a sterling job but makes repainting rather difficult if left in place. Removal is slow going. I´m using paint stripper to loosen the bitumen and then scraping off as much as I can. Higher up the front part of the body there´s been a coat of stone chip applied to the chassis legs. This too has done a good job of holding back the rust (for once!) but also needs to be tackled with paint stripper as my favourite angle grinder and wire brush attachment just manages to heat up this stuff and push it about. So today was just paint stripping and scraping - waiting until the paint stripper dries is very important for the next step with the wire brush and angle grinder as large fast rotating wire brushes flinging wet paint stripper about the shop isn´t pleasant... |
Quote:
I fitted them by dismantling the original seats and runners and then bolting a 5mm steel plate across between the mountings. The Ka seats have to be slightly modified by grinding off the mounting rivets on the short legs and removing them. You can then bolt them onto the plate via their runners, using packing pieces to get the right height, etc. There are no mods needed to the original cantilever brackets off the cross member and transmission tunnel, and you can return it to original spec with a couple of spanners. The Ka seats are quite comfortable and supportive. I did have a thread on another classic car forum, but Photobucket decided to suspend free hosting and we all lost our images in the various parts of the forum. I will try and find my original images and post them. |
Quote:
Whilst I am interested in seeing the effect, please don´t bust a gut - pictures are often a pain... |
Seat belt positions
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Still perhaps better late than never? The B pillar height taken from the upper surface of the rear seat ¨step¨ is 66 cm to the upper mounting point (on my car <= might not be standard / factory) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1521036919 On the transmission tunnel the distance from step to hole is 33cm (on my car <= might not be standard / factory) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1521036919 #### In other news I´ve installed a privacy compartment so I can sit in the back and complain about whoever is driving... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1521036919 |
A strong hot air gun and a oscillating tool are good weapons against bitumen. Hand scraper will of course also work.
|
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 22:48. |
Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.