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-   -   Replacing the Fuel Pump/Sender Unit (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=205207)

gatos Apr 29th, 2012 01:09

Replacing the Fuel Pump/Sender Unit
 
3 Attachment(s)

This guide applies to all S40 and V40 from 1996 to 2004. The fuel pump sender unit might look different on the Phase 1 cars (1996-2000). The 1.9D, 1.9TD and 1.8 GDI S40 and V40 don't have the pump in the sender unit and instead use the high pressure pumps in the engine compartment. I have also attached in the bottom the VADIS instructions for this job, so have a read through them too if you want.

First of all you need to disconnect the car battery, as fuel is highly flammable. Make sure you have the Radio code for your stereo when disconnecting the battery. Avoid smoking or anything that may cause any sparks and make sure you have the rear doors or windows open for ventilation. Fuel fumes may smell nice and give you a high, but they are not good for you....

You now need to remove the rear seats. Lift the bases up and undo these 4 bolts and remove the seats out of the way
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump01.jpg

Then lift the carpet carefully and move it aside tucking the edges in the footwell areas so it stays there. Undo the four screws securing this top metal cover and remove it
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump02.jpg

You will now see another metal cover which seems to offer some extra protection and hold the pump/fuel deposit secured (only guessing here). Just lift it up and out of the way. You might need a screwdriver to lever it out, but most times it should just come out.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump03.jpg

Now you can see the top of the fuel pump. Use a marker pen and mark a small line or dot where the pump body is in relation to the metal car body (Many thanks to Keith (960kg) for pointing this out to me)
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump04.jpg

Now you need to unclip the top connector which powers the fuel pump. Then you need to carefully remove the fuel line connectors. NOTE the connections for the fuel lines to avoid confusion when you are putting everything bck together. To remove the fuel lines you need to push in these two clips as seen in the next photo (one is red and other is black) and pull out the fuel lines. Make sure you have some sort of cloth or kitchen towels handy, as there will be a tiny bit of fuel spillage when disconnecting the fuel lines.

Move the fuel lines and power cable aside (I personally found it easier to tuck them under). You now need to remove the black ring/plastic nut/top cover securing the fuel pump to the tank. There is a special Volvo tool (9995622) for this which I don't have. I personally used a blunt large flat blade screwdriver (or a piece of wood) (positioned at the tip of the green arrow) and used a mallet to gently push the ring anticlockwise. After a few knocks (1-2 turns of the ring, you should be able to turn it by hand (both hands) and unscrew it.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump05.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump06.jpg

Remove the black ring out of the way and lift up the fuel pump unit carefully, so you don't bend the metal rod of the floater. I found that after I raised the pump unit a couple of inches, I tilted it a bit forward and wiggled it out. JOB DONE!!!
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump07.jpg

When you want to put the pump back in, I found it easier to place the rubber seal around the fuel pump unit on the opening of the fuel tank and then push in the fuel pump unit in (see green arrow). Tighten the black ring to 50Nm
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump08.jpg

And a few more photos of the fuel pump sender unit
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump09.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump10.jpg

Close-up photo of potentiometer / fuel level sensor. If your fuel gauge is reading the fuel level incorrectly, give the contacts a good wipe to clean them
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump11.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Fuelpump12.jpg

Hopes this helps some people and please take care when following this guide.

Recognized Apr 29th, 2012 02:22

Fantastic! Thank you! It was so clean inside, or u cleaned it?

gatos Apr 29th, 2012 02:33

Nope. That's exactly how it was. I only wiped the top part which is exposed to the outside. This pump and the guide itself is actually from Siamblue's previous T4

rexer12 Apr 29th, 2012 02:49

fantastic how to as always gatos

Recognized Apr 29th, 2012 17:40

http://m.foto.radikal.ru/0706/34/b3dd03f3e04e.jpg

http://u.foto.radikal.ru/0706/fb/f1b0b386f34f.jpg

Unit from Russia...There is one huge problem to find good quality fuel...

gatos Apr 29th, 2012 17:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Recognized (Post 1151949)

Unit from Russia...There is one huge problem to find good quality fuel...

Wtf??? I am surprised that thing is even working. You know you can remove that filter at the bottom and clean it inside.

bar72 Apr 29th, 2012 20:29

bookmarked alex ;o)

gatos Apr 29th, 2012 20:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by bar72 (Post 1152121)
bookmarked alex ;o)

:). All my guides are here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/blog.php?b=846

tt82 Jun 23rd, 2012 15:15

After a few months of having no fuel in my car, I now have a working guage again. Yeah.

Cheers for the guide Alex.

mechakev Jul 7th, 2012 22:32

Great guide, may I add a tip?
Check the condition of the cables from the fuel reading potentiometer and the top of the pump. The up and down motion can cause the cable to break. A multimeter is great for checking this kind of stuff out. A quick solder fixed mine (my gauge was showing empty).


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