B230E ignition fault
 

Hi I have a 740 89 B230E engine, no ignition spark, changed coil & 12v to coil ok, removed ignition amplifier (Bosch marked but no 12 volt to pin 6 on module, do not know where voltage comes from (relay or other source?). would be grateful for anyone knowing this problem that might help, thanks, roj

Check fuses 12 and 13 including the holders. Also check this diagram, not all pages are relevant to yours so check each page heading :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...Y89_wiring.pdf

THere's a good chance the fuse holder is burned or has been in the past.

I am not sure if going along the right lines, but on mine it was the distributor, the hall sensor is built in to it, and would intermittently cause the engine not to start at a certain temp, it then started to cut out whilst driving, but would start again once the temperature had cooled down.

Although that's a valid possibility, not in this case because he hasn't got a +12V feed to the ignition amplifier module - the Hall Effect sensor only provides the trigger signal.

On two of my 740GLEs (B230E K-Jet) i had exactly this problem, one had already had the fuse bypassed (think it was 13 but a long time ago so can't remember, may have been 12) but the fuseholder used had also suffered from a poor connection and overheated causing the problem to come back.

Second one i was able to clean the fuseholder contacts in the fuseboard and fit a new fuse and problem solved.

Regardless of all else, when tracing a fault like this, you need to check the supply first and fix any faults there, in this case it's likely the fuse/fuseholer has overheated and is causing the fault in its entirity. Even when cooled down, it won't necessarily remake the connection because of carbonisation in the fuseholder.

Once the fault is found and fixed, as a future preventive measure, remove the ignition amplifier module (accessed by removing the airbox) and clean the mating surfaces of the back of it and the heatsink with a solvent cleaner and something like a microfibre cloth - clean, non-abrasive and lint-free. When both surfaces are clean, smear some heatsink compound on both surfaces and reassemble. This is good preventive maintenance for all cars equipped with this sort of igniton amplifier module and can sometimes revive/prolong the life of a failing module as well as protect a good one.

B2330e
 

Thanks will try fuse connections, yes the haynes manual can be confusing as many circut pages & finding WD8 with ignition amp (Bosch 261 201 009 on module) I found.

The Haynes manuals can be really confusing for another reason as well - they are based on the original Volvo drawings for the diagrams. Given these are much larger than the Haynes format (at least A3 size, possibly larger like A2, A1 or maybe even A0) and they were reduced to a suitable size for the Haynes manuals (about A4, maybe a little smaller), a lot of the fine detail, particularly in wire annotations/numbers etc has been "lost" due to limitations in the "shrinking" and printing processes.
Even with a magnifier or as i did some years back, scanning them at high resolution then enlarging them on the computer, it doesn't always give the correct results! A tiny blob of ink here or there can alter how the scanner picks up the shape of the letter and transform it from a D to a B for example.

The pdf i linked to above is about the closest we have these days (that i know of) to what Volvo meant and what is actually on the car.

Ignition fault
 

Thanks for that, have checked all fuses & holders for marks, all ok, removed amp module (260 on circuit) & pin 6 socket ( I asume is 12V as it reads 11/13 on schematic page WD8) it has a dead short to earth so do not know where it's termination is, it links to a unit (419 with 7 connections) do you know if it is part of ignition, thanks for anything you can find, roj

The connection 11/13 is fuse 13 on item 11 which is the fuse box, that part is fed by the igniton switch so by backfeeding it with your multimeter on the Ohms range, you're effectively trying to measure the resistance of the circuits fed by the igniton switch in position 2 - that will include (but isn't limited to) the igniton coil, the ignition amp (if memory serves, item 419 without checking), the instruments and from there thealternator field winding via the charge warning light and so on. All of this will takeabout 30A until the engine is running.

However, i'm not convinced you're looking at the correct diagram - if you are then perhaps i'm not. I'm looking at a 1989 diagram using the pdf i linked to above on Pages 21, 21 and 22 - according to that, the +12V feed to the igniton amp should be on pin 4 which is a BLue wire - check that with the igniton switched on to make sure you have +12V there.

The item you're referring to (Bosch 0 261 201 009) is NOT the igniton module, it's the EZ118k Control Unit. It should as you say have +12V to pin 6 which will also feed pin 4 on the ignition amplifier module (on the inner wing behind the air filter box) and is simply igniotn switched.

This is pointing towards the ignition switch being the fault but further testing is needed. Locate terminal 15/+ on the coil (should also be fed with a BLue wire) and make a short lead to connect this directly to battery +ve - include a switch or make it easy to disconnect the lead from the battery quickly.

Connect this and try starting the car. :thumbs_up:

This might also be useful for you :

https://www.bosch-automotive-catalog...3FautoLoad%3D1

Bosch 0 227 100 124 Ignition Amplifier Module - alternative part number Intermotor 15015.

Would have tacked this onto my post above but the system said i wasn't allowed to edit my own post made less than 3 hours ago! :err: