top end ticking, tappets?
 

Hi folks, I think my tappets may be a bit noisy, if that's what it is, its only happened since the oil change, I put in 0W/30, with 165k milage

Should I have gone with 5W/30? or sommat else?
Can I use liquid moly, namely this in a Volvo?

If it ain't one thing its another for this jalopy.....

The "quiet oil" question returns.

From what I've read:
1) Results vary

2) The "heavier duty" oils from known companies are recommended. These include the extended duty versions of whichever brand.

3) People "always say" try a thicker oil. Castrol's Magnatech 0W-30 or Mobil1 0W-40 EP come up a lot.

4) I've read that the zinc compounds are what make for a quiet oil.

5) I guess since you've just changed your oil that you don't want to change it again. Maybe drain into a cleaned catch pan for use in other engines or as top-off oil and try a Castrol product.

6) If you go the additive route I'd select a zinc additive for flat tappet engines not that £20 stuff.

INSPIRATIONAL ANECDOTES:
A) Years ago I bought cases of "Formula Shell" 10-30 conv. on clearance.
It got used in cars, trucks and OPE. The 3 people involved (myself and 2 friends) all agreed on it being a quiet oil. That product had a good dose zinc. The name and the specific chemistry may or not live on today.

B) I had a '02 V70 which ticked merrily along. I'm embarrassed to say I tried "Royal Purple".
The rep told me the base oil was Mobil1 but their addpack was the cat's meow. The stuff made my engine run silently.
I'm the first guy to mock a boutique oil but that quieting effect was undeniable.
Seriously, it took 3 OCI's not using RP for the ticking to begin to return.

C) See #1 above.

Thanks for the reply, I would go the route of changing it again as its still black as the ace of spades (mmm can I say that in this day an age?) it was straight after doing it so evidently it wasn't looked after prior to muggins here buying it...

What about a flush or whatever they are called?

Hi Bashy, Missed you for the Odd day :tongwink: I was advised on this forum not to use Flushing stuff ! I only use 5w-40 ,change it once a year which is under 5,000 km , Nothing special but of course it goes Black (as the ACE) !!! quite quickly , but never had the noisy thing , 310,000 km , maybe Cheshire will have a better idea .

Match the spec first.
This is important so Euro 3 D5 needs B4, Euro 4 D5 needs B5.

Then choose your viscosity in line with what's allowed in the owner's manual.
5 40 on a Euro 3 D5 is fine, offers excellent all year round performance and I've used it for years without issue.

I'd stick with 0 30 or 5 30 on a Euro 4

Diesels blacken their oil promptly. Even I know that (very few diesel cars in No. America).
As coincidences would have it I saw an early '80's Benz put forth a huge black cloud as it clattered it's way onto the state highway this morning.

Gotta agree with the advice of avoiding "chemical flushes" or solvents in an engine especially diesels with their higher compression ratios.

"Everyone" says to run a working engine with more frequent oil changes to dissolve unknown accumulations of crud. Because good oils are so dear, it's tempting to "throw a grenade" into the pan.

"Add a quart of kerosene and let the engine idle for 10 minutes before draining" is scripture for some.

I hate to plssadoint :D thanks :)

Thank you, I did skimp a little on the engine oil seen as the big names are big money, this is what I put in, the mention of Volvo did it of me lol

Thanks, noted, flush do I will not..... I went with liqui moly special tec oil at the last change (1st for me with this car), prob less than 1k ago, Castrol is nearly double that :speechless-smiley-5 it is a tad hard to justify that on a £1500 car, but then I was doing transmission flushes at the time to, 2x 20L barrels, so adding the oil change made me count the pennies a tad...

Trying to find a decent additive with zinc in it for flat tappets, ie sommat that costs more than that £20 stuff is more difficult than you would think....

I use high zinc oil in one car but then it is from 1929. High zinc isn't needed for modern engines and I've heard said it can harm the catalytic convertor. If it's been neglected, it could be a sticking tappet if these engines have hydrolic tappets - not familiar with the diesels? Short journeys and dirty oil often the cause and fresh oil and a proper long journey often the cure!

Have you checked oil level? I have found that if running very dry it can cause the tappet sound to increase.

I have been reading about zinc and issues with the cats
I am conflicted now...

Thanks, I did check only a few days ago, it was halfway, that's its normal level as far as I know, that's where it was after the 6L oil change...