Advise on changing a clutch 2014 awd d4 xc60
 

Hi I am a new xc60 owner and my car needs a new clutch, I have done clutches before but this seems very complicated, I was hopping someone here has done the job and can advise me on how to approach it?
Its the AWD version with a D4 5 cylinder engine.
It seem that there is not enough room to get the gearbox out without either removing the sub-frame or completely removing the engine - the rear driveshaft also seems to have an addition to the gearbox that will stop the gearbox being removed?
I have removed the battery and gear selector and the left wheel arch so far just for better understanding but cannot see how the gearbox can be removed?
Thanks for any advice

You won’t get it out without dropping the subframe, normally just enough to get it out if you’re careful. You will still need to disconnect the steering rack. Then drive shafts out, angle gear and prop shaft off. Not to bad all nuts and bolt stuff really.

Just be aware it has a self adjusting type clutch, ideally you want the tool to pre tension the pressure plate or just be very careful fastening it up as you don’t want to trigger the adjustment mechanism.

Thanks - I feel a lot better about doing the job when you say nuts and bolts stuff, I was beginning to feel out of my depth.I spent a little time further looking at the job and dropping the subframe seems fine or just moving it to the right out the way might do, and I can see that I need to remove the rack from the frame

1: but do I need to remove it from the steering wheel as I can not see it getting it the way but don't want to damage it! (seems like it will be fine just leaving it where it is?)
2: I thought that I would be able to leave the angle gear in place connected to the engine but removed from the gear box - I can not see what I am gaining by removing it?
3: I have not got a workshop manual for this car - do you think it wise I get one (which one , haynes manuals really disappointed me last time)
4: Are the clutches duel mass as I have not fitted one (spent some time youtubing the adjustment tool but can not see what would happen if you did not use it)
picture of the car so far
https://i.vgy.me/TBByF1.jpg

Hi Mat,

Nothing much to add other than to say good luck and even though it was a far less complicated car, I had to lower the subframe to squeeze the gearbox out on my old 850 T5 to change the clutch too.

Have a look here, around post #5 onwards for some pics. I forgot I had that many trolley jacks :tounge_smile:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=283304

Keep us updated with progress :regular_smile:

Cheers
Stu

Very interesting read (nice write up), Rusty bolts are a personal worry to me from past experiences, bet you had a shock with the amount of rust you had, also interested that the subframe used stretch bolts (I was not going to change mine as I did not think they were, it seem impossible to know which ones are stretch bolts).
I have 4 trolley jacks , 1 for under the engine (as I do not have a hoist and will use wood across the top with rope!) and 1 for under the gearbox + the others to use as supports when needed.(so almost as many as you)
My running car which I am using until I get this car sorted is a v50 2L Diesel just past 230000 miles and can not see the engine stopping, last MOT made me do work to all 4 corners and the rusty bolts scare me -I could not get of of the rear springs off due to a stuck bolt.
Anyway I will attempt to remove the subframe when the weather is better and I now have my head around the auto clutch so will fit that without the tool!

Just an update on today's work
Subframe off eventually , the ball joint at the bottom of the legs would not let go, I made a tool which someone else had used for the removal but it did not work, in the end I got one off after smacking it with a hammer and the other one I removed the bottom arm with it.

surprisingly the subframe was the easy bit.

https://i.vgy.me/Jdus2s.jpg
https://i.vgy.me/xFvRdj.jpg

So I need to lower the engine by about 250mm of the box to come out but I still have the rear drive splitter to remove and a hose that runs across the top of the gearbox obscuring the gearbox bolts, it looks like I will have to disconnect the steering rack to wheel as I think 250mm will push it to far, to be honest it might be alright as the engine could be angled downwards towards the gearbox but I do not fancy going back under if there is not enough room.
biggest gearbox I have seen - not looking forward to moving that!
think a few more days yet.

Good luck, that’s a whopper of a DIY job but great to see progress. :regular_smile:

It is a massive job that's for sure - think I am past the hard parts now?
Today I am looking into things I will need today as the weather is bad,
I have no idea on torque settings for any of the bolts, any suggestions on where to get them (as I will need a lot)
I will order the clutch once I have it out,
Should I get genuine volvo oils or the cheaper Castrol, my choices below.

Volvo MMT6 Transmission Fluid 1L 31280771 £25.61
Volvo TRANSFER BOX / ANGLE GEAR and rear diff 1L 31259380 £39.12
Volvo AWD HALDEX AOC OIL 1L 31367940 £22.56
or
for transfer and diff Castrol TRANSMAX Axle Long Life 75W-90 1Litre £18.99
for gearbox Castrol TRANSMAX Manual FE 75W 1Litre £17.99 each
Not sure what to use for the Haldex drive, castrol suggest Castrol TRANSMAX ATF DEXRON®-VI MERCON® LV Multivehicle but do not think this is correct and I do not know what Haldex system I have (most likely 5)
and I have no recommendations on antifreeze?

Hi mate, how did you get on with this? I’m most the way through this job on the same car albeit fwd rather than awd and I must say I wish I’d paid a garage to do it. Massive job on the driveway at home, took me most of the bank holiday weekend to sort it.