945 Niggles
 

Hi all. I've a couple of niggles with the J reg 2.3 non turbo estate that I could do with a heads up on.

Closing tailgate having loaded the weeks shopping in this evening there was a loud bang and the tailgate dropped rapidly, inspection found that the gas strut ball end ball and stud had pulled out of the top RH of the frame and what looked like half a threaded washer remained in situ, having looked at both sides I can't see any access behind it so would this have been one of the RIVNUT type threaded inserts which are inserted and spread into the hole with a larger version of a pop riveting gun or something else ??

I have also had a problem with occasional no prior warning engine stoppage, it has happened at 70 at 30 and coasting to a stop at a few mph, the engine will restart and run normally 10 - 20 seconds later. The common factor seems to be when the fuel tank is getting low but before the warning light appears, the second time it happened about 40 litres refilled to full and today about 46 litres filled it.

The other 945 has run down to needing 55 L to fill with no problem although I prefer to refill before this little is left.

The first time when I was doing 70 in top it was uphill with a headwind, as I was wearing sandals I put it down to a different 'feel' and that I had not had me clog on the pedal as hard as I thought - not fuel starvation.

The second time I had just run over a slightly raised level crossing in a 30 zone so only coasting,

This time it was empty car, had climbed a small hill in top then after 1/4 mile chaged down to turn right off the road, thankfully no oncoming traffic so when I realised it had died I had just enough inertia to coast into our lane.

Any suggestions on either gratefully received thanks

Mystified of Bogside on Bure

Have you noticed what happens to the rev counter when the engine stops while driving? If it appears to stick or drop to 0 there is a good chance the fault is due to the crank position sensor on top of the transmission bell housing. This is a fairly easy part to replace but access is poor and you have to be careful not to drop the screw into the bell housing or break the mounting bracket on earlier cars. Later cars appear to screw directly into the housing.

There are other possible causes, e.g. fuel injection relay, radio suppression relay and all are covered in the FAQ.

When the engine cut out was it a slow decline in revs, or an abrupt switch-off?

Re the tailgate strut, I had a similar problem on my 740. The stud with the ball screws into a captive nut welded inside the D-pillar. On mine, the weld had failed; as it gradually got looser and looser, it knackered the thread on the stud as well. I eventually fixed it with a "new" stud from a breaker, and a washer and LocNut.

Access to the back is possible, but unfortunately, it's a stinker. If you take the plastic trim off, you'll find an access hole - but it's not near the stud, where it might be useful for access, oh no! But you can, just, get your hand in and up enough to get the nut started, and then get a ratchet spanner in to tighten it up.

But you'll end up cursing, with your back aching, your hand bleeding, and your head hurting from where the tailgate lands on it because the strut's not attached and you've just accidentally kicked away the broom handle you were using as a prop. Or at least, that's what happened to me... ;)

Thanks all, the cut out is instant and I didn't notice anything odd in the tacho, other gauges or warning lights but - in the event of a repeat will certainly remember to look at the tacho.

A good checkround found nothing loose in the ignition electrics (or anything else obvious) and in only one of the failures had ther been any significant shaking (over the level crossing) and I've been over miles of rougher road than the other two times.

Having only recently had the luxury of a working speed / mileometer I had allowed the tank to run lower than before hence my preoccupation with the level, since I bought it back in Feb I have had some heavy trailer loads and passenger loads on without a moments hesitation from the engine and despite the larger size it does not accelerate like my 2L lpt Wentworth but once up to speed it load lugs just as well so doubt it is anything like a clogged fuel filter but did wonder if it mught be pulling the odd air bubble somewhere in the tank part of the piping ??

Regarding the boot strut anchorage, there is a significant amount of force on that stud and having hands and fingers which are not of the delicate artistic type, unless I can find an open route upwards from the light cluster access and glue a nut onto a 'ferret' rod it looks like I may have to drill an access hole to get a nut back on :(

Its been raining too hard to have a look today.

Cheers & beers for your time and knowledge

Rick

Re your cutting out problem, I've just spotted your comment that it's occurring when the fuel level is low. I recall reading on here that there's an internal hose in the fuel tank that pipes fuel from one bit of the tank to another. The hose can perish, and that leads to running problems when the fuel level is below 1/3 full or something like that. If it is that, your options are either to drop the tank out and renew the hose, or many people just avoid letting the level drop that low!

It's worth a search to try and dig out those threads.

I second Forrest's comment : it is definitely worth checking the CPS whenever there is an intermittent cut-out or non-start.
Personally I like to remove the CPS (a 10mm spanner and an oily arm) and check it for cracks and kinks.

According to Tinternet J reg is either 1970 or 1990 which would tend to mean it has 2 pumps.

Random stops and eventual no start tends to be pump failure, pump relay or cps. If its related to tank level then maybe more likely in-tank pump issues, but harder to tell in 2 pump systems.

See my post in B230FK cutting out thread for a list of tests to do to eliminate various items.

What Tony S9 said ^^^^^ - my guess would be a lazy in-tank pimp that is struggling to shift the liquid without a bit of pressure (from the weight of extra fuel) to give it a helping hand.

I'm not sure about the 940 but on the 740s i owned there was a fuse that was prone to burning its contacts in the fuse box and random cutting out. This fuse was for the fuel pumps and usually after it had cooled down it would restart. Eventually i rewired the fuse but took some finding at first!

Thanks again, I'll have to check the fuel system externals and hope for the best regarding the internals of the tank.

I don't see the pump(s) capacity being an issue having in each instance been light on the throttle at the time, although something internal affecting pickup makes more sense as two curves and a raised level crossing moments before were involved.

I'll bear the CPS in mind as well if I get a fuller tank fail or can't find a fuel system prob.

A cunning plan has formulated on the nut for the tailgate strut stud, as the hole is in fact a slot in the rear pillar and I can't see an easy way in or up to poke a 'nut on a stick' - I am considering tapping a hole in a short strip of steel just under the slot width thick then manouvering this with a magnet or bit of wire through then behind the slot and then fit the stud with extreme force and a spot of loctite.

I'll let you know, plan B is to conecut a hole in from inside the boot (under the trim)

TVM again