FAQ Faults & Tips for factory Volvo Bifuel LPG / CNG
 

Here’s an FAQ for factory Bifuel Volvos and after-market conversions running LPG / CNG.

Volvo were just about the first major manufacturer to bring both LPG and CNG cars to market.
The first few pointers will equally apply to those of you with aftermarket converted cars. The remainder are biased towards the rarer factory-fit 1997-2006 Bifuel cars. All the early 1997-2000 P80 cars and the later P2 V70s S80, S60s were fitted the same Necam/Koltec system.

These cars got an unjustly bad reputation. Volvo’s own support to their dealers was poor, and because the cars were not understood, dealers soon became frightened of them. Historically for similar reasons, and parts prices, the LPG / CNG conversion industry also avoided them. This left owners with limited options.

First the general points…
LPG or CNG gases are harder to ignite. Hence, whereas running petrol will be fine, running either LPG or CNG finds the weaknesses of any slightly tired, high-miler ignition system. Look to you plugs and coils first.

1) Steer clear of multi-point plugs. Spark plugs in these cars don’t want to be anything special. Good quality low-spec single-point are fine. Avoid Snake-oil LPG plugs, (NGK & Brisk brand etc). If you have the 5-pot B5244SG engine as fitted to the S80 & V70 factory Bifuels, you need Denso’s or NGK’s most basic plugs:

Denso K20PR-U
NGK BKR6ES

The S40
NGK BKR6es

Delivered to your door, a set of 5 will cost you no more than £10-12. There are no gains with ’so-called’ LPG plugs at 3-4 times the price. Brisk plugs might actually be worse.

IMPORTANT: Running petrol, there is an ongoing dispute about which is the correct plug-gap. Plugs are usually pre-gapped at 0.9mm. Running gas, reduce the gap to 0.7mm or 0.028 thou. Swapped every 15-20,000, I’ve found Denso K20PR-U at 0.7mm gap are best. Some will tell you wider gaps are fine, but often LPG or CNG will cause mis-firing to one or two cylinders. This is all the more prevalent if anything is tired, These cars are getting old. This brings me to…

2) Coil packs: These are a known issue. Combined with a wide plug-gap a car that runs OK on petrol runs lumpy on tired coil-packs with gas. Faulty coil-packs are easy to locate. With the car running, pull the connector from each respective coil-pack. The one that least effects smooth-running is your kiddy. Replace the plugs whilst you’re on…

The Necam System - Overview:
With an unjust reputation the factory-fit Necam system falls foul to many a bar-room mechanic. Mention Necam and you’ll struggle to hear anyone unable to resist telling you to be ripping everything out, and start again.
The issues the Necam system does have are usually sorted for under £200 - £400. A ‘better’ system, even if you install yourself, runs to £6-700 and the hassle. For most of us, the whole point of running LPG or CNG was to save money, and to put something else in there, a pro will want nearer £1700-2000.

The Necam system has a few known issues, and once you understand these, if all you want is for your car to run, it works well enough.

The Necam System
The Achilles-heel of the system is the hard working distributor / stepper motor assembly. Most issues come down to dirt and lack of maintenance and/or heat. Maintenance is made ever more awkward by the daft place Volvo have sited the distributor / stepper motor assembly on the post 2000 P2 Volvos. Pre 2000 P80 P1 cars suffer far less problems simply because the distributor / stepper motor assembly is mounted out of the heat on the bulkhead. More on this later.

Maintenance: Cleaning the distributor. (aka dizzy).
Because getting to it is such a faff, a short-cut on late cars is to pour injector cleaner down via the 16mm dizzy feed pipe. This sometimes works. LPG in particular is dirty stuff. The ‘heavy-ends’ clog the ‘V’ shaped slots found in the distributor giving poor starting and lumpy running. These ‘heavy-ends’ jam the piston of the expensive stepper motor. Hence often you’ll burn it out this way. It’s a hard-working part of your car. On the later cars getting to the stepper is a PITA. If you stepper motor was cheap, and a £40 item I wouldn’t worry. But it’s a £350-400 item, and that’s if you can find onet, he price and rarity of stepper motors makes this job not one to be skipped. Be aware, Volvo dealers want £65 for new stepper.

Cleaning is a 2-3 min job on early cars. On post 2000 cars look to 1-2 hours and grazed knuckles…

For 2001-2005 era S80 S60 V70s:
The stepper motor is even hard to find. It sits between the radiator and the engine block.

With the car running on gas disconnect the solenoid cable under the air box to purge the system of gas. Reconnect before you forget.

Disconnect battery. The distributor is close to some chunky cables that can supply lots of amps if you put a spanner in the wrong place!

Clamp the lower power-steering hose near the pump and disconnect the top hose and move out of the way. (Don't get oil in the alternator) Unbolt the dip stick pipe (10mm socket]. You don't have to remove it but it's easier if you do. Remove the pipes and cables and undo the 2 nuts on the distributor / engine bracket / rubber mount. Careful here, the rubber might be perished. If you do shear the rubber mount, Demon Tweeks Part No. FSEFPA905 - Facet Fuel Pump Mount x 2 will fit). Leaving the bracket on the distributor might be easiest. Remove; some jiggling required. Knuckles will be in fine order about now. Now replace those bracket nuts with wing-nuts. You'll be taking it off again in the future, so make it easy. And do not smoke!
Undo the hose and the two electrical plugs.

For pre 2000 era cars.
Sitting on the bulkhead, you can usually get away with leaving the distributor in place.

Removing the stepper motor from the distributor.
Remove 2 x 3mm Allen bolts and remove stepper motor. Careful here. Two reasons, 1) Shaft of stepper easily bent. 2) A* large spring washer about the size of a 2p bit, a large compression-spring, and if you’re unlucky a ball-bearing will fly around too. Watch yourself.

Unclip piston from the spring on the motor’s piston/plunger-tip* (note which way up piston goes - deeper side away from stepper to accommodate large compression-spring).

I don't recommend ever stripping the dizzy down. There’s rebuild kits sold on eBay for Necam, and usually these are not required. Unless the lower diaphragm goes (in the bottom of the dizzy) you'll not need those kits. If swished out with injector-cleaner. you don't need to strip either. LPG runs dirty compared to CNG but repeated applications usually shift the heavy-ends. Do this every 5-6000 miles.

Fill and leave to soak in injector cleaner. Put a 2p coin over the opening to stop evaporation of the cleaner and leave it for 2-3 hours.
Injector cleaner for petrol is ideal. Wynns or Comma is fine. Specialist LPG cleaner I think is the same stuff, but twice the price. Injector cleaner for petrol works for me.

Fill to 5-10mm from top. Put a large coin, (2p piece is good) over the opening and let it soak 3-4 hours. 2p is there to stop dirt and injector-cleaner evaporating.

You are cleaning the V shaped slots you can just about make out if you look to the bottom of the cylinder/barrel of the dizzy. In bad cases, a 0.15 mm and a pair of fine long-nose pliers to push the feeler through the slots works… just.

Put a pea sized or smaller ball of grease in the keyway on the stepper motor shaft (I do NOT mean the PISTON!). When you’rve done that lubricate the piston with GT85. Do NOT use WD40, it contains silicon. You will damage your 02 sensor. Assemble: Watch for the O-ring sitting on the neck of the stepper (usually Brown in colour). There's 1 x O-ring, a spring and a spring-washer between the stepper and the dizzy. Do not F*CK this up! Wrong assembly will see you cry in your beer. You will fry your control module. So be very careful - put this lot back in the orientation and the order as you found it. Do not omit the large spring washer.

The stepper motor is at the route of most of the bad-mouthing of what is otherwise a very simple system that works well. Keep everything clean and cool, and it all works well enough. Hence…

Moving your stepper motor.
If you own a later P2 2000-2005 car, and most of you do, I would strongly advise you to move your Distributor/ Stepper Motor Assembly. if the distributor is not cleaned ‘heavy ends’ will burn- out these motors, yet there’s another reason…

Sited such that cooked by the radiator, this heat is the source of many BiFuel Volvo problems. This location also turns a 2 mins cleaning job into a major ball-ache., hence it fails to be done. Move the Distributor/ Stepper Motor Assembly out of this heat, I suggest you remount it to the battery area, in cool air.

1) You will need longer hose (if I recall 16 & 8mm).
2) Lengthen the wiring. Solder these wires, DO NOT bodge this!

Use Scotchloks or Chocolate Block terminals or other idiocies. Electronic components need soldering! Do not use heating grade orange butane/propane hose. The stuff you want is marked CNG/LPG. Find the hose you require on eBay.

Volvo should never have located these motors in such a position. Come on, opposite the battery, the main ECU and transmission ECU gets their own air-cooled box! Move your stepper, left where it is, stuck in traffic-jam for 20 mins this summer, it'll cook.

Maintenance: Your stepper.
The stepper-motor is required to whizz a piston up and down in the distributor. It responds to your right foot as you move it.

There’s two versions of the Necam Stepper:
Type A version was fitted to some CNG versions and Vauxhalls, Opels and Transits. You’ll find those for £40 odd. Sadly, they only fit the S40, S60 and pre 1998 V70s.
Type B has a flat top and is unique to Volvo. All P2 V70 and S80 cars have these. it is hard to find. It comes with the aforementioned unique price.

Both CNG and LPG cars use the same stepper motor. The does distributor differs between CNG and LPG. The difference is the size of the V slots in the cylinder. Identified by Red or Green labelling, I think Red is CNG.

Maintenance: Filters
These were often omitted from the large 16mm feed pipe into the dizzy. This made things worse. These can be found on eBay for £5-6 when Volvo want £90.00!?

Common Faults:
Most are cleaning or stepper motor related:

1) Random cutting out:
If your Bifuel randomly cuts out... if you car runs fine, cuts out and then might, or might not, start right away, you have a stepper motor problem. Tomorrow it’s fine, ad infinitum, until it cuts out again. A known issue. Where cutting out is random in car that otherwise fine (once you have it running), it’ll be a stepper motor problem. This problem will gradually get worse, unless your car refuse to run LPG/CNG at all. This distinct from lumpy running and other issues.

2) Rough running only on LPG/CNG fine on Petrol:
Indicate problems with your regulator and/or distributor. First place to look would be a dirty distributor. Don’t leave it, else more costly parts will be damaged. See above.


3) Poor starting on Petrol is often a worn regulator diaphragm. There’s is a bubble test. Details later.

That’s enough for today. I’ll do more faults later. Please put you queries to another post

WORK IN PROGRESS

Variants: Necam EGI - Stepper locations.

Easy to keep clean, fire injector cleaner into the dizzy in 2-3 mins.

I forgot to say this system is known as Koltec and/or Necam EGI. There's also a Necam GSI which is a different animal.

Here's one way to get that pricey Necam EGI stepper out of the heat. If I was doing it today, I'd move it to the right, by the battery and put a bit of old vacuum cleaner tubing pointing to it to keep it cool. After all, the ECU box to the left in this picture, gets its very own cooling tube. Why doesn't the stepper? I mean... it works far harder!

WORK IN PROGRESS...

S40 with cheaper Necam GSI stepper. You are lucky should you have one of these. Later cars are usually a PITA to get to the stepper, and when you do, cost £400.


S40 models share their steppers with Ford Transits and Vauxhalls, and are about £40-50. You can shoot some injector cleaner into the dizzy very easily.

I'll cover DFCO, vapour tests, fault-finding etc later

Be aware, of my prior 'Be aware' typo.

I wrote:

"Be aware, Volvo dealers want £65 for new stepper."

I'm afraid that's £650 at a dealer. As I write, elsewhere, these are £400+ (with a bit of hunting).


WORK IN PROGRESS

Necam EGI DFCO valve

There is a valve (DFCO) sitting in the bottom of the distributor. To test this, with the engine running, pull its plug-connector. Your engine should stop immediately.
If this test fails, the DFCO membrane is not working as it should.
Stretch the spring which sits under the rubber diaphragm/ membrane of the distributor. If this fix fails, you will need to buy one of those Necam distributor rebuild kits you see on eBay. Remove the aluminium cap at the bottom of the dizzy. Change the diaphragm/ membrane.

Sometimes the small rubber-tip of the DFCO valve is worn. Fortunately a new DFCO is not an expensive part. Be aware there are two versions of this part. Cost about £40 on eBay.

More on Dizzy cleaning
Clean the dizzy V-grooves with a 0.15 mm feeler gauge, but nothing larger. The kits usually come with one. The slots are soft and easily damaged. If one slot is particularly clogged, being made for a 6-cyl engine, swap it with one of the spare connections on the distributor.

The stepper motor itself is not easy to check without changing the part. Sorry.

To pressure-test the vaporiser and distributor you need an M6 screw thread. I’ll cover that when I’ve a mo’


WORK IN PROGRESS

If you've looked at the pics attached and think ah... maybe this is not for me, contact these blokes, and whilst they're on, have them move the whole shebang, ...

Professionals in the UK
Depending on where you are in the country, the LPG gas conversion specialists with Necam experience are:

Autogas 2000 - Thirsk
CRD Performance - Bolton
Gareth - Littlehampton (used to be AAG, not sure what he trades as now) I have his number somewhere (PM me)

I suspect we can add our very own classicswede of Anglesey to this list too.

2000-2003 cars have less room, madness for an assembly that needs the same maintenance as say, your air-cleaner

Filters: in more detail
Many of these cars left the factory without any real filtration. A real sin for the dirtier gas. Low pressure filters are so cheap, it'd be daft not to fit these.Put a 16mm on the 16mm pipe going into the dizzy. Do this whichever gas you're running.

Some don't, but the high pressure side on CNG cars have a Parker made item. The hi-pressure CNG refill is available as a Parker. Volvo, as with their low-pressure in-line filters want crazy prices. £140 and £90 respectively. Which is a lot for blue-ink.

Low pressure [LPG/CNG] is 16mm (about £5-6)
High Pressure [CNG] filter: Parker FFC112 / CLS112-6 (about £25.00 but despite being stamped made in the UK, you'll likely have to get it shipped in from the US)

Of course there are those on this very forum insisting on using only blue-inked Volvo branded spark-plugs even when Volvo don't make spark-plugs, so maybe it's me.

Clearly.

See pics.


WORK IN PROGRESS

Parker CLS112-6
High Pressure [CNG] filter, Parker FFC112

Refill CLS112-6 shown here in all its glory.

Necam Filter for VG392 Vapouriser GM 39183531
Vauxhall Opel used this part too. Without added Volvo factor these can be found more easily and cheaper.

When moving the Necam Dizzy & Stepper Motor you'll want Proper Hose
In no particular order, as I think of these pointers, here's what i mean by proper CNG / LPG grade hose.

NOT heater hose, fuel hose or that orange stuff!

Big Bore vacuum cleaner hose or heater hosing
It would do lot of good to direct a bit of old vacuum cleaner hose at the stepper too. Else, some big-bore heater ducting? Whatever you have really... why?
Fixed your ducting to scoop cool air at the stepper. Then the stepper is cooled much like the ECU in its own box. See the big square box, opposite side of the engine bay to the battery, with its own scoop? You want something to replicate that.

I have repaired Necam stepper motors, I'm an electronics engineer and I do a mod to these to mitigate the overheating problem and beef these things up a bit. Yet, there's nothing to beat keeping the electronics cool in the first place. I will show you pics if I can dig these out. But you get the idea.

Necam EGI Distributor Cross Section
Be aware this drawing shows the Non-Volvo Stepper motor (113), recognized by it's top face not being flat. See how the piston is orientated. Thin-walled end into the dizzy body, thicker-wall closest to motor body.

Main faults:

1) Diaphragm (104) hardens with age, then leaks or if you're lucky only spring (105) requires re-tensioning.
2) DFCO (107) tip wears out, or complete DFCO fails.
3) Don't forget the spring washer (114) O-ring (115) or lose the ball-bearing (112)
4) O-rings (118) rarely fail despite all the kits to fix these.

Necam Stepper Motor Type A
Two views of the far cheaper Necam Stepper Type A fitted to S60 & S40 and pre 1998 P80 cars. Subarus, Vauxhalls, Ford Transits etc have these too.
If you have a V70 or a S80, you are unlikely have this type.

Necam Stepper Motor Type B
Two views of the Necam Stepper Type B unique to Volvo. Identified by its flat top. You can usually expect to find your V70 or S80 with this type.

Professionals in the UK
To add to the list of pros I know to have extensive Necam experience:
Flintshire Autogas Chester

The distributor is mounted on M6 rubber mount bolts. These perish and you'll often tear the rubber getting the mount off.

Whilst I advise you to move the distributor anyway, you'll still need these.
Look for Landrover/MG V8 fuel-pump mounts or Facet fuel pump mounts. eBay is your friend here

Else, search for Anti Vibration Rubber Bobbin Damper Mounts.
I'll cover electrics, the main relays that fire the system, setting up the regulator / vapouriser and the two versions of the ECU. Unfortunately most of the offiial Volvo stuff I have on these systems is in German. The English versions may exist, but numerous attempts to get it via Volvo have failed. Quoting Volvo's own part numbers for the German manuals I do own has Volvo parts counters saying the items do not exist. Volvo's own support to dealers was always poor - they don't know much.

And in no particular order, as these occur to me:

Parts in the Necam EGI distributor.

These parts are found inside the dizzy. Leaving out the spring-washer (c) will prove a very expensive mistake, the stepper bottoms-out and then fries. You have been warned. The piston goes on with the thinner walled end away from the motor body. ie the thin walls go into the distributor cylinder. Unsure what I mean by this? inspect post No.10 in this thread.

Lubrication of the piston in the distributor.
Not sure I made this point very clear before, but don't lubricate with WD40 or similar. WD40 contains silcon, and as it works its way to your Lambda (O2) Sensor you'll be springing for another.

Use the same stuff as those in Lycra cycling shorts. The 'I was never confused' crowd use GT85 on cycle-chains. Use this on your dizzy piston, and spray some every time you clean your dizzy.

If you've been paying attention, you've moved the whole shebang out of the heat by now anyway, so it's a 1 minute job to remove you stepper and fire a shot of Wynnes or Comma injector cleaner in there anyway. Finish off with a squirt of GT85. Careful many PTFE sprays have silicon.

Be very wary of your first can of GT85. It's a thin line. I seem to manage to resist the homoerotic temptations of GT85, Lycra shorts, wrap-around shades and an XC90.

For some it's too late:regular_smile:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=37

To recap:

Move your stepper out of the heat. Every 4-5000 miles Whip it out (ooh er missus...) - fire some injection cleaner into the port. Let it soak overnight with a 2p coin as a cap to stop evaporation, then give it a squirt of GT85 (silicon free) PTFE/Teflon on the piston (aka plunger).

When you install the motor it will be lumpy or stall for the first 3-4 starts until it zero's to the ECU. Normal. Rinse and repeat.

Fail to do this and next time you want to replace the stepper I suspect you won't get one at any cost. These units suffer from a Triac issue, and not all can be repaired, and Necam don't seem to be making them anymore. My own supply is limited. If there was one Achilles Heal to the Necam system, it is that parts are getting scarce.

WORK IN PROGRESS

ECU Modules etc
I'm dreading this bit, largely because everything I have is in German, and is a mismash of models and crossovers, and badly translated German! It seems Volvo did not keep good records with respect to Tech-Support to their dealers for Necam cars, hence it'll not be long before you can claim to know more than dealers ever did. And the manuals are not brillaint, the 1999 cars are pretty much the same as he P2 Necam cars

P80 models up to 1998 have two modules. It gets more confusing with later cars, I'll cover those in a mo'

P80 Boot ECUTank Module:
On my P80 it's located under my tank. I am not sure where it lives on LPG P80s.
The one in the boot looks like this:

WORK IN PROGRESS

P80 Boot ECU Main Module:
Found in one of two positions on the pre Denso (1999-2000) P80 cars, it's located either under the bonnet, in with the main Engine and transmission ECUs (in the black box ) on the opposite side to the battery or by your steering column.

I do have one manual for the early cars.

Later Denso P80 cars (circa 1998-1998 seems to be the swap date) still have the tank ECU, but do not have this ECU. Front ECU gets incorporated in with the main Denso ECU. If your car is Denso, with a Denso MAF, and Magneto Marelli ETM this applies to you.

P80 pre 1999 have their ECU 4/74 as this piccy.
They also have a fault code system outside of ODB 24/97. Translated from German, this gets lumpy.

Doing this bit-by-bit, I was going to cover the wiring and which relays fire what, and the wiring diagrams, but as I said it's all in German, and it'll take me a while to copy and translate. I've tried English, not mentioning the war, then shouting louder. Then ever louder... in English. Hasn't worked so far.


I should detail the differences between LPG & CNG with respect to Necam.
Stepper motors do not change, however the distributor is 'Green' label in regard to CNG and 'Red' for LPG. The outer casting is identical. What changes is the cylinder barrel, see piccy. CNG has wider 'V' slots.You will see these 'V' slots when you look down the barrel.

CNG is on the left in the piccy, LPG in the middle and on the right. Shown with a stepper motor missing and a blanking-plate in its place, ignore the middle dizzy. It's a spare for use in stepper rebuilds only.

Differences between LPG & CNG with respect to Necam.

After the high-pressure regulator these systems are much the same. It's only the minor ignition and burn characteristics of the two fuels that makes for minor cahnges. Save for ECU differnces to account for this, with the aforementioned exception, mechanically they are identical.

There is an earlier type of vaporiser. I've put the later vapouriser on an early car simply because I had it to hand. To further comfuse, early vapourisers in CNG have Red stickerage.

Essentials: Put a Heatsink on your Stepper
Here's another essential trick. Those of you that have read my replies to threads know I got into Necam systems by accident. I have an electronics background, and when my system went lumpy, I started to look around for info. I found zilch. So I got the stuff onto my workbench.

Whilst I'll always kow-tow to 'classicswede' on this forum for his vastly greater knowledge over the wider sphere, my little kingdom has become these systems. Whereas most LPG/CNG pros just component swap, I get my hands dirty with the sparky bits.

Now, if you've been following the plot so far, you'll know the stepper-motors cook and once fried, give up the ghost. There's a Triac in there that is borderline for the job, and heat finishes this component. I'll say it again, you have got to move the dizzy & stepper assembly, else if you don't, it'll cook.

But, here's the thing, and with the aid of a digital IR Thermometer, I've only nailed this down in the last 18 months.

What the IR Thermometer told me, is, you still need to fit a heatsink...


WORK IN PROGRESS

I've been away from this thread, got a bit of time a few more pointers...

A digression, whilst I remember... Another point about moving your Dizzy & Stepper
Vaporiser to distributor if I recall is 16mm hose.
Distributor to injectors x 5 is 8mm hose.

I covered before but in more detail... These hoses carry low pressure gas. Ahem, bits of orange BBQ hose will work for a short while. Then they will perish. Not intended for use in a hot oily engine bay environment. Use the correct rubbery hose, marked for LPG/CNG to E67 standards. Else, make your will out to me.

I can't remember why, but there's a good reason why you won't be using fuel hose either. I thinks its porous (at molecular level) to gas, but don't quote me. In short, hose is not hose. Anything will not do.

Propane & CNG eats radiator/heater/water hose, before you ask.

How the Steppers Got its Heatsink
Oh best beloved your stepper needs a heatsink. We shall begin.

See the piccy. You are lucky. My background is electronics so I was aware small motor can sizes are to one industry standard. Our friends with Radio Control cars, boats, and aircraft have come to our rescue. Their DC motors have the same can-size as a Necam stepper motor. See? I said you were lucky.

Dirt cheap, you'd be a fool not to fit one. You want a 540.
But again, pulling from my background, I suggest you bring heatsink-paste to the party. Used on heatsinks in your laptop etc, heatsink paste gives a vastly improved surface-areas to the bond. The fan you hear on your laptop will be blowing over the heatsink. This heatsink will be fixed to the processor-chip using a paste. Also dirt-cheap, this paste can be used to glue the heatsink to your stepper. Electronics must be kept cool. Borrow this lesson from the electronics industry.

These heatsinks are almost always Chinese made, hence the colours of these things are definitely last season, but this is no concours-parade. I repeat, I would advise you follow what one of customers did, fit the heatsink, and get your old vacuum-cleaner hose force-cooling the stepper by letting it act as a scoop fitted somewhere in the grill. Hence a nice cool stepper.

Heatsink paste/grease
You'll find these pastes easily enough. See pix, you need the tiniest squirt. You'll do the whole job for under £10 (Euro15). Far cheaper than a cooked steppper.

A word of Warning

Do NOT fit a heatsink if you do not intend to move your stepper. Failure to heed my advice and all the heatsink will do is help to cook the stepper. How so, you ask? Leaving your stepper in the heat source, my tests have shown the heatsink actually makes the situation worse! It cools where the air around it is cooler, yet heats where the air is hotter.

You want to move your stepper, but then I already said that.

WORK IN PROGRESS

I'm adding bits to this as I find time. Please don't post until I'm complete.


WORK IN PROGRESS

The best method yet, to get to your Stepper?
 

Removing your Stepper. The best method yet?

Over the ripped knuckles school of stepper removal others say they use, there's this. I run a P80. Not owning a P2 means I have little chance to really look at the later cars.

On 2002 models removal of the fan is very simple. A few plugs, and two fixings at the top and the fan slides out. See the pics, I now pass this on... 'Tis far easier than the method given to me as best by many of you.

This should really be at the start of this thread. I would move it if I could. Sorry, I'm not the Modmin here.

WORK IN PROGRESS

Software glitches

These cars are getting old. Sometimes you'll get poor earthing and software glitches. This will cause no-start conditions,. Leave your battery disconnected for at least 15 mins, and whilst you wait, run an extra wire to ground from your distributor.

INFORMATION THREAD ONLY - WORK IN PROGRESS -

Lpg cng
 

Thanks for all this information. I currently have a lpg bifuel which immediately dies when i switch to LPG, (it does not revert to petrol).
Apparently when in petrol the car has 12 volts but when I switch over it only gets 8 volts.

That's nice to know. This is an information thread, if that is apparent to you, and it is, why would you attempt to mess-up the thread for all?

Now we've to bother the admin to delete this post.

Dear forum members I am reaching out to you knowledgeable fellows .I am the owner of a 2005 volvo s60 bi fuel CNG model I have relocated my gas distributor and had the stepper motor refurbished. My dilemma is I sent the old step motor away with the piston attached. When I received the refurbished step motor back the piston was with it but not attached how do I connect the piston to the arm of the stepper motor ..???

Haven't been here for a while. I can share some documentation about Koltec system fitted to Volvos. It is a pretty good guide. The only trick is that its is in russian. If you can't read Russian please use Google translate. Hope it helps