940 separate temperature gauge
 

hi has any one fitted a independent/seperate temperature gauge to a 940 ?

Jim - in the interest of understanding what you're asking, why would you want to fit a separate independent temperature gauge? What temperature are you looking to measure - engine or outside air? :err:

jpliddy
 

Hi dave it's too keep an eye on the coolant temperature I've never been able to fix mine so thought if it's not a big job just fit another coolant gauge useing existing temperature sensor at front of engine on my 940 diesel
If it's possible?

It's possible Jim but most aftermarket gauges need their own sender units/temperature sensors to function correctly.

What's actually wrong with your current temperature gauge? Have you investigated the sensor/sender unit? Have you tested the gauge itself works? Is your engine just running cold because it needs a new thermostat maybe?

Diesels are well known for taking a long time to warm up and even when being driven, unless they're driven hard, often dont get up to full working temperature which means they never get to their full efficiency.

Does the existing temp gauge move at all?

jp liddy
 

hi dave
ive had problems with the thermostat gauge for years it it just reads zero a lot then will kick into life and go to 10 o clock then back again i have swopped the gauge . had joints soldiered if i unplug the sensor at the front of the engine it still reads 10 0 clock then back to zero so i gave up but do you have a thought what might fix it it used to sit at 12 o clock when working fine years ago
regards jim i have a spare header tank with the float in the bottom but no wiring for it .

It sounds like the fuel gauge in my 760 Jim - all the work ethics of a 1970s coal miner! :o

First thing to do is to ascertain exactly what the gauge is doing in relation to engine temperature.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Temperatu...O/392187836370

If you invest in one of those, take the car for a 5-10 mile drive at a decent sort of speed, stop somewhere safe and leave the engine running, pop the bonnet and aim that at the thermostat housing (usually where the top hose joins the engine) and read the temperature, it should be in the high 80s, preferably about 88C give or take a few degrees. If it is reading 88C ish then by rights the temp gauge should be at the 12 o'clock position.

If not, there's a very high chance your thermostat needs renewing. You can also use that device to check for hot or cold spots on your radiator, wheel berings, brakes and so on and many uses around the home too - it's invaluable for balancing a central heating system for example.

One thought - nobody has decided to wind PTFE tape around the temp gauge sender/sensor threads have they? If so, that will cause problems, had that on mine (except it was the EFi sensor they'd done it to! :eek: :err: ) and it causes the circuit to break, leaks round the sensor and so on.

Jim,

You are certainly right to worry about coolant, as if something goes wrong the head is finished..
As no doubt you have seen from many posts the symptoms you describe are from the joints in the pcb, diagnosed in my car by thumping the dash, which results in a temporary cure. Although several posts recommend the solder method, none actually point to which are the joints to solder - should anybody know please say!
If you cannot get the gauge to work, all you can do is try to minimize the possibility of coolant loss. If the hoses have never been changed perhaps now is the time if you can find them (I think that volvo have stopped making them) - ebay does have 350655861205, but that's for the 760 and I don't know whether or not the measurements are the same.
In which case all that's left is the admittedly expensive method of using evans waterless coolant, which boils at 375 degrees, so the pressure in your system won't exceed atmospheric. Besides the cost of the stuff itself you are supposed to ensure that all the water is removed by using some kind of flush.
Another precaution taken by some was to get an 850 coolant reservoir, which has a coolant level sender, so if you know somebody who knows how to connect it you can be warned of loss.
BTW I could not find the brake pad tool so do not even know if it is volvo or not...

jor

I think that was Tofufi aka Jim that linked to the brake pad wind-back tool on the other thread?

Yeah, I have. It required extensive modification of the cluster but I wanted it to look OEM as possible.

https://i.postimg.cc/K8MsxBpj/940volt7.jpg

Installing one elsewhere would be a lot easier (like in the bottom left of the pic behind the indicator stalk).

Don't know the thread diameter for the D24 sender but adapters are available.

Should be able to tap into the stock gauge wiring (positive, negative, and sender signal wire).

Thanks for your thoughts everybody hi baggy your gauge looks good did you have a faulty gauge im thinking its not the gauge itself as I've changed it. But is there more complex things ive got to do to fix my problem