New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

OK so all those quick get aways have paid the price, my clutch has decided to give up the ghost! Seeing as the engine has been modified one way or another I am getting the larger diameter clutch (us porpers only run 2.5 20V er's!!) I have it on good authority that I only have to change the flywheel to one for either a oil burner or T5/ R size (240mm dia instead of a 228mm dia.Clutch size). So far so good, I found a flywheel from a broken T5. Sourced a Sachs clutch from Eurocarparts and on Monday I'll try and make it all work! I'll keep you posted and if I remember to take the camera I'll post some piccies of the operation.

RE: New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

ive heard that you need a special clutch alingement tool for the 850 dont know how true this is also a friend has a t5 with a slipping clutch that we will be tackling soon so any advice of info will be helpfulll!.

RE: New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

Hi ya,

You do not actually need an clutch alinement tool as unit is Hydraulic and not adjustable. I have just had mine fail big time whilst on the motorway on my way to the dealer would you believe. I had to be toed by the AA recovery to the dealer, not embarrassing at all for me but for my 'babe' it was :-(

mark


mark.

RE: New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

Even with the unit being hydraulic I would be surprised if you do not need a special tool as the clutch has to sit centrally - the hydraulics operate the release mechanism, they do not (normally) centralise the plates.

The Spit is also hydraulic, and that needs a special tool - however the special tool can be made from a lenth of wood the same diameter as the gearbox input shaft - unfortunately I don't know more than that - my dads the mechanic and made the one for the spit, but he is 400 miles away!

Good luck!

Stu

RE: New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

i think ive missed the point here. ive changed a few clutches and always use a universal alingement tool or as you say a broom handle will do. the story i was told was that it has to be a specific volvo tool otherwise the clutch will judder.

RE: New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

If it's the same as the Spit then you just have make it the right way - the spitfire requires a specific Triumph tool - I've had the clutch out 4 or 5 times over the last 3 years and never used a special tool! I think the specific Volvo tool may (just guessing here) make it easier to align the clutch, or it may have to be exactly in the right place. Either way, I'm sure one can be fashioned...... (most of these special tools can...)

RE: New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

Hi ya,

i must admit on a small boo boo. There is indeed two tools needed in the clutch change procedure. I have gone back to my schematics and you need a 'Press Tool' and a Centreing Tool'.

mark.

RE: New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

OK so here is the run down on changing a clutch on a 850
Firstly throw away your well thumbed copy of Haynes Manual !! Secondly take everything off or away from the O/S of the engine/gearbox including the starter moter and clutch slave cylinder. Under the car take off the rear engine mounting and unbolt the steering rack and steering crash guard.Take out the N/S drive shaft and release the O/S driveshaft from the gearbox. (taking care not to damage CV gaiters in the removing) With a sturdy engine crane support the engine and then drop the subframe down as far as you can from the car. Undo all the bell housing bolts. Lower the engine so that the gearbox has room to part from the engine,part the gearbox from the engine rembering the two dowels will not want to play ball. Unbolt the cover from the engine (ghastly torx bolts) and refit new with your centering tool. (a snap-on standard rachet is close!) Replace the release bearing and put some of the supplied lubricant on the splines. Carefully mate the gearbox and engine making sure the gearbox does not hang on the output shaft. (Not as easy the gearbox is bloody heavy) Make sure the dowls have gone home correctly and get a couple of bell housing bolts top and bottom to draw the gearbox and engine together. Put everything back, bleed the clutch slave cylinder to get the pedal back and there you have it a new clutch fitted. My advice would be do not attempt to do this yourself find someone to do it for you. Volvo dealers don't give you much change out of £1000 to do it but shopping around you should get it cheaper.
One thing I did find out is what the gearbox oil (manual) is, I sent a sample to the lab and it turns out to be 5W - 30W synthetic standard engine oil! Cost me £3 trade, better than the £20 from Volvo!!

The clutch that came out had Volvo stamped over Sachs and was the same part numberas the new one.

SO
1) DO NOT attempt a clutch change unless you have a good mechanic and full workshop on hand to do it.

2) Volvo manual gearbox oil is 5-30 Synthetic oil

3) Haynes manuals are not the be all and end all.

4) Volvo source their clutches from Sachs and charge 2.1/2 times more than a OEM supplier

5)The workshop timings book says it should take 4.1/2 hours to do, double that it took me 1.1/2 days to do.

6) If you do attempted it make sure you remember what came off where and the bolts go back from wence thay came.



Thanks to Steve Kennard of Primrose Garage, Loxwood, West Sussex for the loan of a ramp for a couple of days and for his technical expertise. Not forgetting the lads at Woking for support and the lab report, cheers

Dave

RE: New Clutch/Release Bearing
 

After seeing what was involved in changing the flywheel as well it was given up as an a uneconomical job. Sorry there are no pics but the digital camera was playing up.