Quote:
Originally Posted by JSeaman
 Obviously you don't know my background but I'm quite capable of fault finding this sort of thing but to try and fault find blindly on an issue like this is not practical (in my view, I value my time too much!). what you actually end up with is various wires with voltage on in various different positions and the missing one may or may not be present (in my car I would have seen a number of voltages appear but not the one I needed as it happened).
Anyway, not wanting to get embroiled in a pointless debate - thanks for trying to help  |
as im trying to point out, if you got all wires live as they should be you can rule out the switch and move to somewhere else knowing the switch is putting out the voltage needed to power the circuit, there is obviously a problem somewhere in your system, bypassing it by splicing in a 12v supply further up the chain is not a cure, if for instance a wire is grounded under the dash and blown a relay or fuse due to the short, by powering the system from another point your putting power straight back down that line, a car battery is capable of putting out well over 1000 amps, it only takes around 150 amps on a dead short to set a car on fire, im by no means saying your not capable, im just saying there is a logical way to diaganoise this type of fault and by what you are posting sounds like your going around in circles and missing the problem, being a european car it is wired to din iso spec so the colour of wire used at the rear tail light bulb holder, should be the same colour wire on the switch. if you want to know what wire is what on the back of the switch then once you have figured out the lives from the negs you can bus power straight into the plug and this will let you know what that circuit does.