Quote:
Originally Posted by Backhill1
Skyship just some comments on your recommendations.
Have you had a PM on exact oil in use as you appear to not know what Oil has been tested and The Castrol Edge data on the chitty could cover many different oils by your own admission on previous posts in relation to quality?
Therefore are you promoting additives as a stock answer? We see this all the time where people think they know more than the manufacturer, we seldom get it wrong as we develop engines with a lubricant standard.
Also how can you recommend additives and flushing without knowing in detail this data? Also how do you conclude varnishing and the elimination??
This is an extremely rare phenomenon in modern diesels (generally associated with petrol engines) how do you conclude this is going on?? I bet you could strip every D5 ever built at 150K in the UK and none would show signs of varnishing. How would this manifest itself?
Please I’m not having a go but I find it dangerous when people are making recommendations without asking all the correct questions and putting owners vehicles / engines at risk with no liability or accountability for their advice.
Volvo do genuinely know what they are doing and if they thought this was the future they would be asking Castrol to add at the refinery.
Perhaps you should register in the traders section more honestly rather than trying to steer people towards certain products with no ramifications for your advice. If you have no allegiance to these products then I apologise for insinuating so but your engine history does not indicate otherwise i.e. @ 1,000,000 miles on original block and pistons.
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The UOA results from the Castrol Edge in use shows it does not contain any Moly or Boron additives (Most good oils and Edge TD does). Moly is not essential for low wear rates IF the base oil is a true German standard full synthetic like the top of the range Synthoils, Redline or Amsoil full synthetics. Edge is only a HC synthetic and is in fact not much different to Magnetec in actual contents terms. The fact it does not even contain any Boron compounds for upper cylinder lubrication is one reason why it produces higher Aluminium and Iron figures (The results I got from Edge TD shown below are real bad in comparison with the real McCoy synthetics).
My own advice is the same as that you will get from anyone that knows something about turbo diesels and used oil analysis and that is that at present Shell Helix Ultra will produce better results in value for money terms, partly because it includes Moly and Boron additives and that it is based on GTL technology base stock. Mobil 1 also produce good engine oils, but they are also HC synthetics like Edge (All M1 oils contain Moly and Boron additives).
There is no need to use oil additives unless an engine shows signs of abnormal wear metals or is subject to severe service. The Germans are well ahead in oil technology terms, Liqui Moly are world leaders in oil additives and Ceratec does exactly what they say it does. I've looked at a lot of before and after UOA results and it's true that most oil additives don't work and a few, like drive around flush additives can cause problems. MoS2 Moly additive sometimes works, but although Ceratec is more expensive, it's a classic case of you get what you pay for, as it has 2 active anti wear additives.
The UOA results in question show highish upper cylinder wear metals and it's a standard precaution in such cases to use an idle only flush additive just before an oil & filter change (It will also help Ceratec to deposit the best layer possible). It might not be necessary, but it's a good precaution if you have not fully inspected the head and turbo feed line. No oil works correctly if it can't get to every spot the designer intended, so getting a block real clean is very important if you want to get the best long term results.
The idea that modern engines don't suffer from deposits is nonsense, the only ones that are 100% clean have been run on top quality full synthetics changed at shorter than the max recommended intervals. So if the oil service history is not perfect, it is worth using a top quality idle only flush just before changing oil & filter. Castrol, Amsoil and Liqui Moly all make good flushes.
The only precaution is that an engine that already has oil leaks, might leak faster and require the use of a high mileage oil after flushing, so it's sometimes better to clean a block up with a few short oil changes if it's a dripper. Mobil 1 0/40 or Shell Ultra 5/40 both clean far better than Edge, as M1 has more detergents and the Ultra base stock is a natural solvent. In this particular case I would stick to an x/30, as it will flow faster when hot which might have a slight effect in upper cylinder wear terms, although Edge 0/30 is at the top of the 30 range, so not much different to most x/40 grades.
Volvo did know what they were doing when they originally recommended Castrol Magnetec, BUT that was over 10 years ago and time moves on and the present owners of Volvo are just using Edge because it is cheap HC synthetic that lasts a long time, but it's not the best liquid Gold in town.
I would also point out the the Volvo own label engine oils that their dealers are using in the UK might not be Edge 0/30 or Edge 0/40, although most Volvo dealers in the UK are just using Magnetec 10/40.
The OP is pushing the boundaries with a long oil change interval which can often produce better results (Dirty oil filters are more efficient than clean ones), BUT only if you use a real top quality full synthetic with all the best additives included in the oil, OR added in some cases. Castrol like to spend a lot of money on advertising!
Shell Ultra range:
http://www.shell.com/global/products...ltra-0w30.html
LM Ceratec data sheet:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/m...a%20Tec_EN.pdf