Volvo Owners Club Forum - View Single Post - Timing belt renewal-oil seals too??

Bugjam1999 · Jun 3rd, 2015, 09:58

I just rebuilt (well, extensively serviced is a better term really) the replacement engine I put in my car and replaced the front three seals (camshaft, auxiliary shaft and crankshaft). I bought a set of seal picks to get them out which were invaluable, I don't think I could have done it without them -these ones but I'm sure you can find similar:

http://www.raygrahams.com/products/1...FWf4wgodOUYAEQ

Clean up the whole area in front of the seal to start with using some sort of spray cleaner- I used brake and clutch cleaner but whatever works- getting the area clean means you're not pulling the seal out against any extra resistance and there's less chance of any debris ending up in the engine or on your new seal. Using the picks is pretty easy, start in one spot and try and jab into the seal and then pull, then try another spot and work all the way around to ease it out.

Replacement is also fairly easy, lube the seating area with fresh oil and have the seal fully submerged in new oil to start (I used a takeaway container). Push the seal home square using a socket if you can find one that fits, or your fingers- I used my fingers as I couldn't find a socket with a big enough hole in the middle to clear the camshaft. Have something plastic to help you push the seal in the final bit and to help with getting it totally seated and square- I found a bicycle tyre lever worked for this as it was easy to hold with oily hands, hard enough plastic and had a relatively thin but not sharp end. The other thing to have is some way of measuring the depth you have pushed the seal back all the way around to ensure it is square- I used the depth measuring end of a pair of vernier callipers, so once the seal was in I checked the depth all the way around and where it wasn't square I pushed it in slightly further to square it up using the tyre lever.

One thing to note is that the seal is a tight fit in the space (of course) and when you first push it in it's a tight fit with a film of oil on it, meaning it can be relatively easily moved about. The longer you leave it, the more the pressure of the seal against its seating will push out the film of oil meaning that instead of it moving relatively easily it gets harder to move about. Think of it a bit like fixing something with epoxy glue - don't worry it's not like you have moments, there's plenty of time, but don't go and have a cup of tea half way through

Jun 3rd, 2015, 09:58	#5
Bugjam1999 Master Member Last Online: Yesterday 17:53 Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: London and Cambridge	I just rebuilt (well, extensively serviced is a better term really) the replacement engine I put in my car and replaced the front three seals (camshaft, auxiliary shaft and crankshaft). I bought a set of seal picks to get them out which were invaluable, I don't think I could have done it without them -these ones but I'm sure you can find similar: http://www.raygrahams.com/products/1...FWf4wgodOUYAEQ Clean up the whole area in front of the seal to start with using some sort of spray cleaner- I used brake and clutch cleaner but whatever works- getting the area clean means you're not pulling the seal out against any extra resistance and there's less chance of any debris ending up in the engine or on your new seal. Using the picks is pretty easy, start in one spot and try and jab into the seal and then pull, then try another spot and work all the way around to ease it out. Replacement is also fairly easy, lube the seating area with fresh oil and have the seal fully submerged in new oil to start (I used a takeaway container). Push the seal home square using a socket if you can find one that fits, or your fingers- I used my fingers as I couldn't find a socket with a big enough hole in the middle to clear the camshaft. Have something plastic to help you push the seal in the final bit and to help with getting it totally seated and square- I found a bicycle tyre lever worked for this as it was easy to hold with oily hands, hard enough plastic and had a relatively thin but not sharp end. The other thing to have is some way of measuring the depth you have pushed the seal back all the way around to ensure it is square- I used the depth measuring end of a pair of vernier callipers, so once the seal was in I checked the depth all the way around and where it wasn't square I pushed it in slightly further to square it up using the tyre lever. One thing to note is that the seal is a tight fit in the space (of course) and when you first push it in it's a tight fit with a film of oil on it, meaning it can be relatively easily moved about. The longer you leave it, the more the pressure of the seal against its seating will push out the film of oil meaning that instead of it moving relatively easily it gets harder to move about. Think of it a bit like fixing something with epoxy glue - don't worry it's not like you have moments, there's plenty of time, but don't go and have a cup of tea half way through