Quote:
Originally Posted by ANDTWENTY
Just checked timing, I have been taking the longer mark as 0° is this correct?
If so then I lined up the crank pulley with that one if you look square on at the plate which is slightly off set.
I then looked at the cam which is marked with white pen and also appears to be out slightly. Could this be the issue or am I referencing it to the wrong marks, guessing these white marks aren't original marks?
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The timing mark you have arrowed in your first pic is actually 20 deg BTDC, the next long mark is 10 deg BTDC and the short mark, right at the very end where the pointer housing goes back at an angle is in fact the TDC position.
Like Kay says, it looks like it's correct but to be doubly sure, recheck by moving the crankshaft onto the 0deg mark. I don't know how to do the "drawing on pictures" thing like you've done with the arrow so can't do it.
A better way of adjusting the throttle butterfly to its correct position is to get the engine warm and then locate the red/white wire terminated in a 2-pin multiplug near the coolant expansion tank. Make a jumper wire and connect this to the red/white wire and the other end to battery -ve - the idle speed will drop. Now adjust the throttle stop screw so the engine idles at 600rpm, lock the locknut on the throttle stop screw at this position and if you wish, use paint (or Tipp-Ex) to seal it as Kay suggests.
Now, remove your jumper wire and the engine speed should climb then stabilise at about 700rpm (if memory serves on the B230F) and that is the idle speed sorted.
Now to adjust the TPS with the ignition off. As you look at the TPS, work out which way the throttle spindle turns as you view it when the throttle is opened. If it's anti-clockwise, loosen the two screws securing the TPS and turn as far as it will go clockwise. Now turn it back slowly until you hear the microswitch click. Nip the screws up just enough to hold it, set your multimeter up on continuity and connect the probes to the earth and the idle microswitch wires on the TPS - it should buzz to indicate continuity, open the throttle gently and as you open it, the buzzing should stop.
Release the throttle so it goes back to idle position and it should buzz again. If all is well, tighten the TPS screws properly and if you wish, blob some Tipp-Ex/paint on to seal them.
Now, swap your meter probes into the full throttle microswitch and the earth on the TPS, still on conituity and get in the car and floor the throttle - you should hear the buzz from your meter to indicate that not only are you getting full throttle but the ECU will recognise it too.
I find this method preferable to Kays method overall as it takes wear on the components into account, especially on the base idle speed setting. Kays method is perfectly valid on new/near-new components but let's not forget your car is nearly 30 years old now and will have at least some wear on it!
Looking at the pic of the back of your alternator, i can see the witness mark on the spade terminal for the diesel rev counter where you initially connected the field/warning light wire. If you look you will also see that terminal is marked with a "W" which if my memory of learning German is correct, stands for "Wende" or in English, "turn" as in turns of the engine. I'm sure Kay will put me right if i'm wrong!
This would have caused a fluctuating voltage on the warning lights and a certain amount of self-excitement for the alternator so it might have putout 14V but not at full current.
Re your ABS warning light, if you clear the fault using the code reader, it should stay off now if there isn't a problem.