Quote:
Originally Posted by ANDTWENTY
Just re checked the timing, i missed the 0° which is marked on the lower cover, with this lined up the top one lines up perfectly.
The only 2 pin connector I can find has a yellow and red wire that goes down and through the wheel well, guessing it's for an abs sensor, is this the right one?
Or is this the one?
Even undoing the screw so that it no longer touches the butterfly lever the idle doesn't drop below 1100 ish, however clamping off the air hose to the idle air valve does drop the idle down to the point it might stall, could the idle valve be letting too much air past preventing me from lowing the idle? and the fault code for it also seems to back this up as being faulty.
just checked the idle valve by disconnecting it, which made no difference to the car running. checked the voltage and it was 13 something, so battery voltage. I then went into the car and turned on heater fan, lights etc and the idle lowered and stayed lower.
there is also now a lambda light on so ill check codes, code came back as TPS has no idle signal/faulty signal, this may be because I had it loosened to get it to idle smoothly
The idle air control valve works when connected to 12 volts but when disconnected the shutter inside overshoots and leaves an air gap
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Good news on the cam timing, it looked right so was really only a doble-check but double-checks can often reveal something!
The first yellow/red wire is indeed for the O/S/F ABS sensor. The second pic in the blue connector looks much more like it and would appear someone has tied it up out of the way. Try it and see, it's almost certainly the right one if it's the only terminal in a 2-pole connector.
If you've set the idle too low on the base idle speed, it will also hunt at idle as it tries to compensate but the AICV overcompensates then it's a constant battle of bring the speed up, too much, reduce the speed to where it should be when warm, too little, bring it back up again etc. It doesn't come within the limits prescribed in the ECU map that it's looking for so it throws a fault code.
Charging voltage with no load should be 14.0V, 14.4V on a cold voltage regulator. Check your alternator drive belt tension.
It may drop a little if the battery is in a low state of charge but not by much and should come up to 14.0V when revved. You've had a lot of starts so it may be the battery is a bit low by now.
There should be a slight gap in the AICV when "closed", first though you need to get the base idle speed right, using my method, re-adjust the TPS if necessary and take things from there.
By the way, if it's automatic, you may need to check/adjust the kickdown cable after all of this has been completed.
Nice colour by the way, Dark Blue Metallic if i'm not mistaken? Paint code is 603 i think if it is.