Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo940GL
It’s an ecu for b230fb.
But the MAF, does it need to match the ecu? When changing ecu?
Or do I change it aswell
I got ECUand EZK for B230FB
Well Ash, it’s your choice to help me or not. I appreciate your help, your help aswel, Dave
The noid light. Really, I need to get one then.
But the symptoms of not reving more than 3000rpm. It happened on the 100a alternator. Didn’t happen in my 65ampere
So, what I should try next is
Record my injectors with noid light
2. Try changing ECU and EZK
3. Install my 100ampere again.
Tps can also be causing problems hm. But I did measure it. But I don’t remember my readings, gotta measure again.
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The correct ECU for your car is the 0 280 000 946, the B230FB uses 0 280 000 595 or 935, 935, 968 - the last three digits chance according to year of manufacture.
The ECUs aren't always interchangeable.
The MAF is 0 280 212 016 and is used on both the B230FD and B230FB as well as the F, FK and FT models and the B234F so you shouldn't need to change the MAF to match the ECU - whoever told you that needs their neck stretched!
Make sure the ECU you have fitted before you try it again is the correct one, ending in 946 - disconnect the battery and remove fuse #1 before changing it, only replace fuse #1 after the battery is reconnected. Make sure the 100A alternator is fitted too!
As for the TPS, i know you've measured it, i'm talking about disconnecting the orange wire from the TPS to prove it's not staying connected to earth through any fault of the switch.
The EZK unit you should have is the 0 227 400 196 for the FD engine. The FB uses the 0 227 400 175 so once you've made sure the fuel ECU is the correct 946 unit, make sure the EZK unit is the 196 unit.
In short, disconnect the battery and put it on charge. Refit the 100A alternator, make sure the ECUs are fitted as described above (fuel 946, EZK 196) and pull fuse #1 then take the battery off charge and reconnect it. Refit fuse #1.
Start it up and see what you've got. If it won't rev above 3000rpm, remove the orange wire from the TPS and try again.
If it still won't rev, switch everything off and get your multimeter on Ohms and check the resitance from the orange wire to earth - there shoudn't be any connection at all.
If that's all ok, reconnect the orange wire to the TPS and fit the NOID light (yes, it is essential to fault finding!) to one of the injectors and monitor it as you bring the revs up. If it gets to 3000rpm or thereabouts and the NOID light goes out, keep the throttle in the position it's in and wait and see what happens. I suspect it will drop to near idle speed and then the NOID light will start working again and the engine will rev again.
For the record, we know your 65A alternator is dead. The ECU will see this and go into Limp Mode so will default to preset values for certain sensors. Also it depends which ECU you have fitted at the moment, without the correct ECUs fitted, we don't know if we're making progress or going round in circles getting nowhere!
