Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyS9
Sorry, I see you did report the voltages but not the conditions.
If you have 13.85V at the battey at idle and 14V at the alternator, its good result having 0.15V drop from alternator to battery, but you need to check under higher load say with the lights on high beam. The difference should not be more than 0.3V under high beam (and engine running) but it will just take progressively longer to charge the bigger the difference. Mine was at 13V and it was still "working" but charging at half the rate.
If the earth strap (or any other connections) has resistance this test will show it up. Usually it will be a bit low at idle, but you can rev to say 1500 to get a better reading.
When you say you don't think it charges below 3000rpm, have you checked the battery voltage at idle? And what about the voltage before and after switching on the lights?
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12v with light on. 13,9 with evetything off
The Engine struggles to rev. Litteraly.
I changed that blue lead from alternator to ground.
I changed the battery ground cable.
I checked tps valve and adjustment just to be sure.
It’s 0.3 v from alternator positive to battery positive.
I’m going to the junkyard with this car soon. It won’t run properly. It’s killing me.
What’s new
Leads, plugs, distributor, rotor, distributor cap, ICV, ECU and EZK, coil, Cranksensor, fuel pump, fuel filter. Gasket on Intakemanifold and TPS, lambda,
battery. Knock sensor, timingbelt, it’s timed correctly