Quote:
Originally Posted by Agnew
Hello everyone, first post on this forum as I recently got my first Volvo: a 1984 244 GL with an automatic transmission (most likely a BW55), Solex 175 CD carb, points ignition, and a B17A engine.
I did a quick oil change, fluid top-ups and a very rough idle speed setting (it has idling issues) to be able to drive the 40 mile journey home and am now in the process of obtaining parts and doing some proper maintenance. The car was kept in dry storage for about 18 years, so it is in good shape, but with a few issues,
First of all, idling: It starts well, runs well and idles just fine in P or N, but as soon as the transmission is shifted into any drive range, the extra load causes the engine to idle very roughly. As soon as you get it moving, it runs fine, but stopped at a traffic light, it goes back into rough-idling. At first it was stalling, but I just set the idle speed a bit higher to get it home. But now I need to do it properly.
I suspect it is a just a bad carb adjustment. I have a bunch of Volvo service manuals and a couple of Haynes manuals, but none go much into detail about idle speed adjustment on automatics. The B17A is meant to idle at 900 rpm or so. Is that in N or D? Is there any such system to compensate for the change in load when shifting into gear from neutral on the A engines (carb)? Injected engines are a different story, but I am scratching my head about the original intention for carb-engined automatic 240's.
It sounds as if it is running too lean in D when stationary, but it is idling fine in N. The bypass valve screw adjustment is not able to get it to idle at 900 rpm in D with brakes applied. Idle speed adjustment in N maxes out at 1100 rpm or so and when shifting into D (or R) it drops to 600 rpm.
The vehicle is fitted with A/C and the bypass valves for this work well, as in no drop in idle speed when the compressor is engaged.
The second issue is an intermittent ATF leak, most likely from the transmission, but could also be the power steering (or both). I can see that it is sometimes dripping from around the torque converter grilles, but it could also just be an overfilled transmission spitting out via the vent on top. More on this soon. No slipping or other low-ATF-level symptoms, even after 40 miles.
Lastly, as it has an ignition timing sender fitted, I am tempted to get the Volvo tester for it. Does anyone have any experience with these units and, most importantly, their wiring? Or perhaps, documentation? Or even just the pinout of the connector on the car and a source for mating connectors?
Any hints would be greatly appreciated. I will be shooting some pictures so you can hopefully see it soon!
|
Good morn and welcome,
Here is a link to the Volvo green book covering your carburettor - you should be able to get it sorted from there:
https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ask6E_1jz4xIgP4Y...a1-9w?e=ffhHag
... and here is one for the BW55 transmission:
https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ask6E_1jz4xIgP4Z...FNpHA?e=lPnT1J
The Royal Barge is a 1980 244 auto, but unfortunately the engine (B21a), carburettor (Peirburg CDUS) and ignition (Bosch JHFUD4) are not the same as yours. It would probably be a good idea to check the cylinder compression to make sure you are not chasing a mechanical issue, and the engine mounts. It would be a good idea to make sure the ignition timing and advance are correct before you start carburettor tuning as well. It might be worth skimming through the Royal Barge's thread (
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=303259) to see if there is anything pertinent to your car.
One has to remember that carburettor tuning is not much like FI engines - there is no computer to sort everything out, so it is a case of getting things more or less right most of the time.
I'd suggest doing a few partial changes of the AFT - the LS way - you should be able to get about 2 litres out each time. See how un-red it is after the first one and decide how many partial changes you will need. Get the gearbox working as well as it is able to - it will of course drag a bit in gear even after you have done that.
Good fortune.
Alan
PS. Re: the ATF leak - I think it is best to get underneath and clean everything thoroughly - then spray some talcum powder over every joint that might leak and watch for the oil to appear.