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Old Sep 22nd, 2020, 13:34   #2
Georgeandkira
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Last Online: Yesterday 13:27
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Hackensack
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Hello,

How low on oil were you?
Just goes to show you how much these dealers actually care.

A transmission drain & fill is "equipment basic" and gives you a look at the fluid a mere 'white rag wipe' doesn't.

You should inspect the parking brake shoes. This requires removing (not disconnecting) the rear calipers so you can get the rotors off. 'Tis the only way.
Decide if new shoes and hardware is necessary then.

Clean the bleed nipples with a wire brush and apply drops of penetrant for your brake fluid flush WHICH YOU SHOULD DO.

Get a 7mm allen wrench bit for your 3/8" drive. Remove, clean and regrease your glide pins. There's no doubt they are dry. Use a real brake grease product.

Each of the pins has it's own boot and cap. The caps can be missing and the boots can take a beating. My '02 had two caps missing and one boot was chewed halfway away. Replacements pull through from the inside of the bracket. It's self explanatory.

Clean and pretreat the front bleed nipples in the same way when you're there.
Inspect brake hoses at each wheel for cracks while doing this.

Go in back and make sure the spare tiyre (new US/UK way to spell it) and jack are all there. Take a look at our funky jack's functioning and get a wheel chock if none is there. Also check the locations of the 4 jacking points.

With cooler weather on the way it's mandatory to carefully inspect (load test) the battery.
If you take to playing with a charger for whatever reason, do that with the battery outside the car.

Remember, attaching a charger and walking away does NOT constitute a full battery inspection.

See what kind of shape your coolant is in. A separate test is to open the coolant reservoir and sniff for exhaust smell.

Make sure all your exhaust hangers are in place.

Others will be along shortly with diesel specific advice.

Best of luck

Last edited by Georgeandkira; Sep 22nd, 2020 at 13:54.
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