Quick update:
I cut off the old flanges front and rear with an angle grinder and slid a 200mm rigid connecting piece of pipe in there. Having done that the exhaust was still a bit droppy (if thats a word) in that position and the rear section would eventually rattle down onto the cross brace. I thought the best fix for this would be to splint / brace the joint which has certainly made the whole length more rigid. Now that I have done the job I can understand why that flange joint would break so easily as the length of pipe from the rear axle to the flexipipe just under the engine doesnt have a single exhaust hanger on it; It really needs one just to take the weight off the flange joint.
The rear section of exhaust looked a bit rusty but when I cut it off with the angle grinder there was still plenty of thickness to the metal.
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Current Volvo XC90 2.4 (2005) Automatic in bronze
Current Toyota Yaris 1.4 (2014) Manual in silver
Previous cars - Ssangyongs, Volvo 960, Citroens, Avensis, Fiesta & Escorts, Minis, Beetle & Passat, Cavalier, Acclaim, Mini & Maestro
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