Quote:
Originally Posted by Othen
Do you think that is just the standard rubber seal that the metal trim fits into like Brookhouse Volvo sells Dave, or is it the more modern type like I have on the RB?
Alan
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No idea to be honest Alan, you'd need to contact the sellers and ask about the type of rubber used in the seal for a definitive answer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Othen
No apology for using this thread as a journal of my ownership of Aunt Maud. There are two items that the PO told me of that need sorting in the fullness of time.
1. The speedometer reads a bit slow because it has the wrong gearing from the OD unit. This needs changing one day.
2. The Type D OD works on all the gears at the moment (rather than just top as it should). This is because the inhibitor switch isn't fitted - the switch is in the spares box but the hole it goes into needs tapping with the correct thread (M16x1.5).
These are both jobs that need doing one day when I take the gearbox out.
I'll use this thread to catalogue my inventory of spares, survey known issues and start recording fixes from later on today. Any comments on posts with advice (particularly telling me I've got something wrong!) would be much appreciated.
Alan
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Are you sure the inhibitor switch thread is M16 x 1.5mm? Many threads on Volvos back in the 60s and 70s were Imperial and if memory serves, it's a Laycock-DeNormanville OD unit which was a British thing so the case for an Imperial thread is stronger - 5/8"UNF-16 would be likely, if not something very similar. Worth double-checking before you tap that thread!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo_133
Regarding the o/drive inhibitor switch not fitted and o/drive working in all gears.
Place this at the top of your fix list.
If you have the o/drive switched on with the solenoid energised, reversing the car will trash the o/drive.
An easy to do expensive mistake. This is one reason for having the inhibit switch. O/drive must be inhibited except in 4th gear.
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Another good reason is many OD units can't handle the torque in first and second gears under hard acceleration, however many cars were able to use OD on 3rd and 4th, effectively giving 6 forward speeds - 1st, 2nd, 3rd, OD 3rd, 4th, OD 4th so this could be an option too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgbalfour
I wouldn’t worry too much about the fuel gauge, it’s as good as it gets. Soon after I bought the car I replaced the sender in the tank as the gauge was flying between empty and full whilst driving.
I tested the dash read out with a resistance decade box and it’s perfect. The new sender improved things to where they are now so I don’t think you’ll be able to do much more with it.
When I worked at the power station, I had one of our summer interns try and build me a resistance damping unit using an Arduino single board computer. Unsurprisingly they weren’t actually many plant sensors based on a float moving a potentiometer wiper(!) but I thought it was an interesting project nonetheless! We bought the bits but unfortunately he never finished it. It shouldn’t be too difficult a project for the right person.
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A big capacitor would probably have been quicker and more effective but if it's a characteristic of the car, i'd leave it alone. Each to their own and if Alan wants to damp the movement of the guage there are ways and means without resulting to the hocus-pocus of an Arduino board to create a signal conditioner. The trouble is, the more you try and damp the guage, the more complicated the circuit needs to be, including the meter-drive circuit. A small mechanical damper (friction or pneumatic) attached to the sender unit would probably be easiest to implement but means removing the sender unit from the tank.