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Old Apr 25th, 2011, 11:30   #20
Clifford Pope
Not an expert but ...
 

Last Online: Today 15:37
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
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Whilst it obviously helps if you can identify all the pipes and know what they do, you don't need to get too hung up about them.

Rule 1 - never remove more than one pipe at a time!

Then just pull off or unclip each pipe in turn, and make sure it is clean. Check that the rubber isn't perishing or flaking on the inside - a hose can look fine outside but be collapsing inside.
Especially check the thin hose is free, and the small orifice in the pipe it fits over on the manifold.

It would also be worthwhile removing the large convoluted air intake hose. Undo the hoses at the manifold end and leave them dangling so you know where to reconnect. Inspect the convolutions carefully to see it isn't cracking, and clean out any oily deposits.
With the intake pipe removed you can squirt carb cleaner into the intake, and with a soft rag on your finger you can clean inside the throttle body and flap when you turn the throttle by hand.

Finally there will be an Idle Air Valve underneath the manifold, This is a horizontal alloy tube about 4 " long, with an electrical connector at the rear, and two rubber hoses at the other end. It is a press fit in a rubber holder.
It is well worth cleaning the rotating valve with carb cleaner and a soft brush, and poking the rotating valve round with something blunt, like the other end of a fine paintbrush. Check that it is clean and snaps back nearly closed when you rotate and release it.

You definitely have themulti-point system. The alloy pipe running along the top of the manifold has 4 fuel injectors under it, leading to the 4 cylinders.
Don't disturb any of that.
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