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Old Mar 29th, 2018, 17:26   #25
Army
marches on his stomach
 

Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueosprey90 View Post
Derek, that spare B20 engine is in storage. Next time I go there I'll take some pictures.

Today's question concerns the paint.

My car is California White, color code 42. It seems that it is painted with either a "synthetic enamel" or a "cellulose enamel" by Glasurit. There are several high heat temp drying paints listed in the factory manual, but for my purposes, also an air drying enamel listed as Glassomax Lackemaille Air Drying California 20 - Volvo 117". I'm not sure if the "California 20 - Volvo 117" signifies some different paint code.

In any event, I think I've found a source (www.autocolorlibrary.com) for some white paint, California White #42, that I can get in several options:

Acrylic Enamel;
Acrylic Urethane;
Acrylic Lacquer;
Urethane Basecoat and
Low VOC UBLV Urethane Basecoat - the last one being a water based paint, I believe.

My car has about 80% percent paint in reasonable condition, but some large areas that need to be addressed and repainted.

I want a compatible paint suitable for a guy who will be using a spray gun for the first time and who isn't too good with rattle can paints.

Any suggestions as to which paint option I should choose? And the reason?
You are in a similar position to me at the moment. Lots of the paint is OK but enough of it isnīt...

...any decent paint shop will encourage you to strip what you have and start again because: The problem you will probably face is that different paint systems can react with each other.

Some people might recommend a sealer before painting - in this case they say you might be able to mix different systems.
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works!
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