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Old Dec 4th, 2017, 09:02   #11
skyship007
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Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 08:14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alen View Post
Hi , I'd be interested to hear the outcome too becuse having the same problem with my xc90.
Nickthecook, anything new?

My turbo was rebuild 3 months ago, and than a nightmare with oil consumption started.
Could a rebuild turbo make so much pressure that the car that was consuming 1l oil every 1800km before rebuild starts consuming 1l/200km.
The car had plenty of power before rebuild, did not smoke, and after rebuild no increase of power.

What about "low friction" oil rings introduced in 2007? Could they be the problem?
Sounds like they fitted a turbo that had bad non Garrett or Ford oil seals. They cause big oil leaks if you have a big right boot.

Low friction rings press on the cylinder walls slightly harder and were introduced to reduce oil consumption when thin 30 grades are used in a diesel, or 20 grades in a petrol job. They are only low friction when used with a high Moly (Mo) full synthetic engine oil, so it's a rather odd description, although they are made using metal coatings that reduce the friction slightly. They don't last as long as older low tension ring if they are German or US OEM standard.

If you can't get a new OEM standard turbo fitted, try the following:

1/ Use a major brand full synthic 0 or 5w40 and half a can of Liqui Moly Ceratec every OCI.
2/ Avoid using a big right boot too often.
3/ Make sure the thermostat is working.
4/ Check the crank vent system is working.
5/ When you change the fuel filter, fill up the housing with Liqui Moly Diesel Purge.
6/ When you change the oil & filter, try using a can of major brand oil flush additive that is designed for use at idle (Castrol classic, Liqui Moly or Amsoil all make safe ones) for 10 or 15 mins just before the oil is drained.
Using a flush might result in a temporary increase in leak or even oil burn rates due to the false oil seal effect, but it's only temporary as the new oil will sell up the oil seals and gaskets.
Make sure you use a real Volvo or German certified OEM standard oil filter (Mann etc), as the far Eastern jobs can use bad relief valves that result in very high oil pressures during cold starts.
7/ If all else fails, move up to Mobil 10w60 EL (The high mileage, not the race version) and change it every 5000 miles max.

Did the garage fit a new oil feed pipe when the turbo was changed ??
They often block up with varnish and that will fry the turbo oil seals very quickly!
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Last edited by skyship007; Dec 4th, 2017 at 09:22.
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